Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
I need a drill bit to drill out a #5 or #8 bolt. Or drill out an easy out that I broke off. What would you call the bit? Who sells them locally?
Thanks
George
 
Do you mean carbide drill bit? Do you mean a grade 5 or grade 8 bolts? What diameter of a bolt?
 
Any machine shop supply house can sell you a drill bit which is hard enough to drill through an easy out. If you mean grade 5 or 8 bolts which are broken off below the surface; get yourself a left hand drill bit (drills turning ccw) slightly smaller than the tap drill size for the thread. Start drilling into the center of the bolt normally. Push the drill sharply. What you want here is for the drill to grab the bolt stub and thread it out (ccw). About a 3/8" bit is about the smallest to try this with. A really well stuck bolt will probably break a smaller drill. Apply a good rust breaker like Kroil to the bolt ahesd of time. Good luck, Dan
 

I have used a masonry bit in a pinch - the brazed insert is carbide. Carbide bits for drillling hard metals are available but are pricey. Actually I have not had much luck drilling easy outs - the best outcome is when they breakup.
 
Indiana Ken ,
Thanks, I do have masonary bits. Give it a try.

I'm trying to remove 3/8 inch motor mounting bolts from a 6.5 hp briggs. Got one out of the aluminum. Twisted the other two off. Tried heating the aluminum. No luck. Not having a lot of fun.
George
 
If the bolts are broken off in a through hole, I would suggest trying to drill it from the other side and knocking out the easy out with a punch. Easy outs are hardened, and not much will drill through them. This hardening also makes them brittle, so they break easily.
IF...the bolts/easy out are in aluminum, you may be able to burn them out with the good old blue tip wrench (cutting torch). I have had some luck with that providing you do not get it hot enough to melt the aluminum. A bad situation all around...
 
That may be an easy one if you can drill from the opposite side. Drill from the other side from the easy out then drive it out with a punch. Then drill out the screw and do not worry about the threads. Just use a screw and nut. The greatest danger id breaking the casting.
 
That's my plan, attack from the other side, but I have to remove carb and flywheel to get to the other side. What should be an easy job has turned in to a night mare. Dulled loads of bits too.
 
Drilling out a broken ez out or tap is doable, but only with the proper equipment, as in a Bridgeport mill. Trying to get it out with a hand drill or drill press will only result in doing more damage.

The only solution I see would be to remove the pan, clamp it to the table in the Bridgeport, drill out the bolt and retap the hole. Even this can be extremely difficult if the bolt has been hand drilled off center.

Might check Ebay for a used pan.
 
George, before giving up on EZ Outs, I busted a lot of them. If you take a sharp punch and start chipping away at it it will break up and come out. I've had very, very little luck getting steel out of aluminum once it's welded itself in there. I drill out carefully and retap. Use a good never seize type product when you reinstall.
 
Hello George Marsh,

Speed Kills Drill Bits. If the drill bit is turning, even at 10 RPM's, with proper feed pressure, it will drill. If you can get to the center try a small bit first and then work your way up. Shocking the area with a hammer may help! Always use some kind of lube while drilling,

Guido.
 
another bit you can try is for boron steel. i have a few here at the shop for drilling spot welds on boron steel automotive panels. there is a wax like lube that you use on the bits.

heres a link
poke here
 
GUIDO ,
I discovered slower is better, bit last a little longer. Got the one hold cleaned out, but the easy out is a PIA. I've tried chipping it drilling from the back side.

Good thing I don't have to pay myself for this job. Could buy a new engine cheaper.
George
 
Hello George Marsh,

At one place were I worked we had a hand drill like a drill press. Took a lot of turning, but grade 8 wheel lugs were drilled out successfully.
Drilling is mostly feel,that is why some one
suggested a machine shop. Like I said before, the secret is speed, or the lack of. Mostly is a lot of time and patience coupled with trial and error,
Good Luck.................

Guido.
 
Left hand or back side use only H.S. TWIST DRILL and slow. Did you drill hole all way through first? if so from backside maybe just drill to bolt and punch backward. Othersise hardend punch or chisel and chip. If hit too hard only sinks ezout tighter. Doubt block is worth machine shop cost!.
 
At work we have a 3/16 inch full radius end mill that will drill through easyouts with a hand drill because there is no sharp corners like a regular end mill or carbide drill to break off. Used it when I broke an easyout on the exhaust studs on dads WD45. Worked great. Can get from MSC or Deco tool. I always keep more then 1 on hand now.
 
Spent 6 hours today, GOT ER DONE. Dulled loads of bits, which I touched up a few on a circular saw blade sharpner, it has a diamond wheel. I think I like using it better than a grinder.

My next project may be making a gig to hold bits at the proper angle to the saw sharpner.

Has anyone done this before? If so please show pics.
George
 
I think that the wheels in the Drill Doctor are diamond. Why reinvent something that works so well?

Dusty
 
Dusty MI,
Why reinvent something that works so well, because I don't have a Drill Dr. Every good redneck knows you use what you have.

I've ever had a Drill Dr. I've always sharpened bits with a grinder. Talked to a guy who spent $150 on drill sharpner, said it wasn't worth chit. Not sure if he has a Drill Dr.

Does Dewalt make a bit sharpner?

What does a Drill Dr cost?
George
 
Being a retired Tool&Die Maker, I have done this type job many times.
Anytime I am faced with this situation, I try to drill the proper size hole for an E-Z out and try to drill exactly in the center of bolt. Some times it is necessary or helpful to grind a flat surface to get this accomplished.
If the UNBROKEN E-Z out fails to remove the bolt, I drill the hole to the tap drill size, or 1/64 smaller, and retap. That's the reason for the first hole to be CENTERED!
Now, with a broken drill bit or E-Z out it is easier for me to grind out with a carbide burr and work from there.
If the screw hole is accessible from the other side, try to punch the tap/screw extractor out-the direction it went in.
 
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