Drive Cap Question

Vicinalvictor

Well-known Member
Recently I drove a 1 1/4" shallow spike well near my wildlife pond. The pipe is galvanized, and the drive cap I used is black die cast. Finished the job, now the cap is stuck on the pipe. What is the best way to get it off? I'm thinking a hole in the cap, and then smacking it with a heavy hammer? Thanks for any advice that would work.
 
The word Diecast indicates white, or "pot" metal, possibly aluminum. If it is that is good because it will be softer, and probably stripped, leaving the pipe thread metal in pretty good shape. I would cut through the sides with a hack saw down to the threads, then use a cold chisel (with a sledge backup on the opposite side) to open the cap for removal. Jim
 
You're right, I think it is a softer metal. I just don't want to mess the threads up on the stand pipe. I did think about using a hacksaw though too....
 
Most likely Malleable or Ductile Iron. Black is used a lot for natural gas while galvanized is used for water.

Score it as stated above and break it.
 
Did you try two pipe wrenches with cheater pipes if stubborn?

If the cap is diecast the wrench will likely just chew the cap.

Most all drive caps are cast or malleable iron.
 
Hello vicinalvictor,

Try a center punch on 4 spots around the cap. Make a good dimple in the direction you need to turn the cap, then start tapping. Who knows, you might just get lucky and get it off. If the threads a REALLY buggered though, then you will need to split it to get it off,

Guido.
 
I tried two pipe wrenches, not working. I need to find the best way to break the cap and get it
off....center punch might work, not sure about a hacksaw though....
 
The threads on the cap are toast, but I think the galvanized pipe threads are ok. Perhaps use a center
punch, or a hacksaw partially through the cap, then smack it with a heavy hammer might work to break it....
 
if you have a dremel tool, try the mini cut off wheels and slice down the cap in a couple spots, it should come apart.
 
I know it won't help you now but if it helps others that read this thread we have always put the drive cap on a short ( 2 to 6 inch long ) nipple onto a drive coupling then on the pipe being driven. That way the drive pipe is in the heavier drive coupling so the threads stay good and don't leak air into the joint later.
I have often seen damaged threads on the driven pipe damaged when a drive cap is put directly on the pipe.
One solution is to cut the well pipe below the damage and rethread it.
 
Thanks everyone that replied to my post! I used a hacksaw, hammer, chisel and pipe wrench to remove the cap. The pump is now on the pipe and it seems to work, but the leathers need to soak a while longer for better performance.
 
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