Dry sleeve installation methods

Mtjohnso

Member
Will be installing dry sleeves in an IH 350.
I will clean up cylinder walls of block with paint thinner or equivalent and clean ridge at top.
I have looked at a lot of videos showing various methods of installing dry sleeves.
1) use dry ice to freeze sleeves. Then drop and tap in
2) put sleeves in freezer then drop and tap into place. some oil applied to bottom of sleeve
3) install sleeve at room temp with lots of oil on sleeve and in block. Use special step plate(looked like Delron) and a big hammer
4) install sleeve at room temp with oil only on lower part of sleeve. Used a thick steel plate with post in center that got hammered with what looked like a 10 pound sledge hammer.
All of the above methods looked successful.
Anyone used a press to push in a dry sleeve?
Had one neighbor who put sleeve in dry ice, set sleeve in block. Tapped it with hammer and sleeve shattered.
So what method have you used? What to be aware of? What not to do?
 
Usually ambient temperature, a hardwood block and a hammer. Sometimes I've had to use a bar and bolts to pull it the last little way.
 
The last 3 sets,I have measured first (to be sure they would fit) the most important thing is the sleeve protrusion. Be sure they all meet specs. If don't stick out enough should be able to get spacers. I don't like to have to drive them in. Just tap them in. Get a cylinder hone. Get all the rust out they will drop in. Almost.
 
Depends on the engine design, some are slip fit, some are light press fit, and some IH dry sleeves are HEAVY press fit. Best go by the service manual of block being repaired. I don't ever use a wood block, only the heavy steel plate to seat the sleeve. You DON'T want an unseen wood splinter under the sleeve flange when seating the sleeve.
 
Mahle sleeves used to have installation instructions. The last sleeves I did on a D236 slipped in until the last 3 inches , then tapped home with a plate..... just the way Mahle said they would.

A press is the only thing I would use... whether a shop press or one bolted to the top of the block.... if they were a force fit sleeve. Pounding on precision stuff is just wrong to me.
 
I did a dry sleeve Perkins, put sleeve in freezer for a day, then when ready heat the cleaned block with a heat gun for apx 10 minutes each one at a time. Take sleeves out one at a time and put in but fast, one I had to tap a little. Just make sure your have everything ready.
 
I did a dry sleeve Perkins, put sleeve in freezer for a day, then when ready heat the cleaned block with a heat gun for apx 10 minutes each one at a time. Take sleeves out one at a time and put in but fast, one I had to tap a little. Just make sure your have everything ready.
This is how I usually do it except I heat the whole block for an hour or so with infrared heaters on both sides
Sleeves always dropped all the way in
 
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