Dump the B&S points

[rossow (mn)]

Just an update for anyone with starting issues on old B&S engines: I have a 5hp B&S engine on a front-time tiller from the early 1970s. It seemed like every spring I had to pull the flywheel to work on the points. I had read about converting to electronic but never had the time or nerve to take on the job, figuring it would either be impossible or I would screw it up anyway and never see the tiller run again. Finally, weary of yanking on the starter rope, this past spring I bought an electronic coil, and it took more time to remove and replace the starter cover than to install the electronics. Now, even if I don't run the tiller for many weeks at a time, it starts on two or three pulls -- sort of a miracle cure that cost me about 45 minutes of time and about $10 online. If all goes well, I won't have to dread spring tilling chores. (Of course, still have to make sure the carb is drained in the fall to avoid fuel issues.)

 

[timcasbolt]

If you could provide part numbers or other identifying information, I'm sure a lot of people would be willing to give it a try. Thanks!

 

[old]

Just an update for anyone with starting issues on old B&S engines: I have a 5hp B&S engine on a front-time tiller from the early 1970s. It seemed like every spring I had to pull the flywheel to work on the points. I had read about converting to electronic but never had the time or nerve to take on the job, figuring it would either be impossible or I would screw it up anyway and never see the tiller run again. Finally, weary of yanking on the starter rope, this past spring I bought an electronic coil, and it took more time to remove and replace the starter cover than to install the electronics. Now, even if I don't run the tiller for many weeks at a time, it starts on two or three pulls -- sort of a miracle cure that cost me about 45 minutes of time and about $10 online. If all goes well, I won't have to dread spring tilling chores. (Of course, still have to make sure the carb is drained in the fall to avoid fuel issues.)

They make a universal electronic ignition module for them and it is real easy to install. I had an old front tine tiller years ago that the front crack shaft bearing area was so bad the engine ran fine till you engaged the drive to the tine and then the engine would shut down due to the wear being so bad. Put a electronic ignition module on it and it worked just fine

 

[Loosehandle]

Just an update for anyone with starting issues on old B&S engines: I have a 5hp B&S engine on a front-time tiller from the early 1970s. It seemed like every spring I had to pull the flywheel to work on the points. I had read about converting to electronic but never had the time or nerve to take on the job, figuring it would either be impossible or I would screw it up anyway and never see the tiller run again. Finally, weary of yanking on the starter rope, this past spring I bought an electronic coil, and it took more time to remove and replace the starter cover than to install the electronics. Now, even if I don't run the tiller for many weeks at a time, it starts on two or three pulls -- sort of a miracle cure that cost me about 45 minutes of time and about $10 online. If all goes well, I won't have to dread spring tilling chores. (Of course, still have to make sure the carb is drained in the fall to avoid fuel issues.)

Those conversions have been around 40 years or so

 

[rossow (mn)]

Those conversions have been around 40 years or so

But not everyone may have heard them. There's no harm in refreshing the conversation. Those already knowledgeable don't have to read about it.

 

[Duner Wi]

For a Briggs I will use a Briggs Magnetron ignition module coil if applicable.AFIK Briggs started using this pointless system in the early/mid 1980s.

 

[Mule Meat]

The conversion is about as easy as removing the old style coil and replace it with the new one. Well worth it.

If you convert an engine. I suggest removing the old points and condenser along with the plunger. Then put a small amount of JB Weld into the hole where the plunger goes.