dying 1020

[KettingbyBOB]

My '67 1020 3 cyl gas will start right up and idle. Take it out of barn, runs for 100 yd and quits. Then it's restarting it every 2 ft till back in barn. Here is what has been done carb rebuild, tune up, wire to fuel shut off solenoid connection was replaced. It was running rough and hard to start and a guy reset points and has run beautiful since November. Yesterday it wanted to start acting like it did before. I had a suggestion of the coil but seems weird it would just start that. Any help this is driving me nuts! Live in Michigan so put a bottle of dry gas in it and fresh gas as I planned to use it.

 

[Jim.ME]

My '67 1020 3 cyl gas will start right up and idle. Take it out of barn, runs for 100 yd and quits. Then it's restarting it every 2 ft till back in barn. Here is what has been done carb rebuild, tune up, wire to fuel shut off solenoid connection was replaced. It was running rough and hard to start and a guy reset points and has run beautiful since November. Yesterday it wanted to start acting like it did before. I had a suggestion of the coil but seems weird it would just start that. Any help this is driving me nuts!

Welcome to the forums.

An easy place to start. Hook up a jumper wire from the starter battery cable terminal to the ignition switch side wire terminal on the coil to see if that keeps it running. If it does you have a wiring issue between the ignition switch and coil, the ignition switch could be bad or power a loose wire is causing power to the switch to drop out.

 

[teddy52food]

Has the condenser been tested after it has been warmed up?

 

[Fixingfarmer]

gas supply to carb good? If you open up the bottom plug on the bowl does it slow down after a bit? Does it have a charge pump feeding it or not?

 

[Jim.ME]

gas supply to carb good? If you open up the bottom plug on the bowl does it slow down after a bit? Does it have a charge pump feeding it or not?

It is supposed to have a transfer pump.

 

[KettingbyBOB]

Has the condenser been tested after it has been warmed up?

No. I did not realize it was there on side of coil till I took it off, Thanks.

Welcome to the forums.

An easy place to start. Hook up a jumper wire from the starter battery cable terminal to the ignition switch side wire terminal on the coil to see if that keeps it running. If it does you have a wiring issue between the ignition switch and coil, the ignition switch could be bad or power a loose wire is causing power to the switch to drop out.

Jim, it acts like it runs out of fuel, that is why the one guy I took it to thought fuel solenoid. I will try this to eliminate the possibility, thank you.

gas supply to carb good? If you open up the bottom plug on the bowl does it slow down after a bit? Does it have a charge pump feeding it or not?

Hey Farmer, I opened that plug slow, had fuel dripping out. Took it out and not a lot run out, then it stopped, even after cranking it very little came out. I think it only has a lift pump (think that's what it's called).

 

[Fixingfarmer]

condition of that pump then. a little more difficult to test but the 100 feet and idle all day long leads me down the fuel path quicker. Some has been tried on that side already but I might exhaust the fuel possibility side first since there's not much left to try. Ive found that with the possibility of the advance being goofy as an outlier or something of that nature coil warmed up is coil warmed up at an idle or full throttle should have more to do with time operating and the rest of the ignition will usually behave similarly. it also sounds like it makes it that 100 feet at higher idle so at least for a minute or two electrical side is working. cleanliness of the tank? a screen? blowing air back to tank from charge pump? I don't recall a screen on 20 series so much. Removing fuel shutoff valve and putting the manual screw in is also something id try...

If that doesn't help id start at plugs. This is also a classic symptom of plugs gapped too close. It usually happens when they are changed or new so its a bit less likely. I had a chainsaw new out of the box of all things do this from the factory. Fine till it warmed up. Then heaven help you if you could get the thing to pop after that. If you happen to have a cheap spark plug tester that works quite well sometimes although its name should be ignition indicator. It can spark when you have a faulty plug but it lets you know if the plug SHOULD be sparking or not.

Then depending on if the tester indicates the distributor and coil are working id head down that path.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

gas supply to carb good? If you open up the bottom plug on the bowl does it slow down after a bit? Does it have a charge pump feeding it or not?

Yes most 20 series have one and Jim has confirmed it does that's probably the place to start it sounds like to me. Checking that the line is clear both sides, no debris in the tank. If that doesn't work id try my other suggestion.

 

[Jim.ME]

No. I did not realize it was there on side of coil till I took it off, Thanks.

Jim, it acts like it runs out of fuel, that is why the one guy I took it to thought fuel solenoid. I will try this to eliminate the possibility, thank you.

Hey Farmer, I opened that plug slow, had fuel dripping out. Took it out and not a lot run out, then it stopped, even after cranking it very little came out. I think it only has a lift pump (think that's what it's called).

The fuel solenoid only shuts off fuel going through the main (load) jet. It does not shut off fuel going into the carb fuel bowl. Remove the fitting from the inlet of the carb, some had screens made to the end of that fitting that threads into the carb.

Does the fuel solenoid on yours have a knurled thumb screw on the end opposite the carb? If it does you maybe able to carefully remove the screw. A small spring and the plunger will come out behind the screw, don't drop them. Note the direction of the needle. Reinstall the spring first then the needle (same direction as it came out) followed by the screw. Turn the screw in until the needle seats. Back the screw out 2 full turns. That makes it so the spring holds the needle open and it won't close the needle for testing.

 

[used red MN]

Hello Bob, welcome to YT! In the link look at part 18, it is the elbow where the line from the pump connects. There is a fine screen that is attached to the fitting on the part that screws in the carb. There is a possibility that can plug and restrict gas from entering the carb. FYI, from that linked page you can access all the parts sections for your tractor. Clicking the “1020 tractor” at the upper left will take you to the main index.

 

[rrlund]

My '67 1020 3 cyl gas will start right up and idle. Take it out of barn, runs for 100 yd and quits. Then it's restarting it every 2 ft till back in barn. Here is what has been done carb rebuild, tune up, wire to fuel shut off solenoid connection was replaced. It was running rough and hard to start and a guy reset points and has run beautiful since November. Yesterday it wanted to start acting like it did before. I had a suggestion of the coil but seems weird it would just start that. Any help this is driving me nuts! Live in Michigan so put a bottle of dry gas in it and fresh gas as I planned to use it.

Be careful fooling with that lift pump. I took the line off mine one time and cranked it over to see if it was pumping, and it sprayed gas on the distributor cap and caught fire.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Big hose over little line into pail. Or keep testing it on the left side like you have just put it back together till it’s the last fitting at the carb after you change something before cranking. Gas tractors and fire are no fun it can go bad fast

 

[K Effective]

I had a small beetle-like bug (earwig) get flushed into my fuel tank, likely from the nozzle of the bulk tank. It caught in the hard steel line just before the lift pump. tractor would idle fine, run the PTO, then run out of power half-way down a row of grapes with the sprayer at full throttle. It would barely make it out of the row. I changed multiple filters and was going after the lift pump itself, when I found the bug's pinchers sticking out of the line. Grrrrr.

 

[KettingbyBOB]

I had a small beetle-like bug (earwig) get flushed into my fuel tank, likely from the nozzle of the bulk tank. It caught in the hard steel line just before the lift pump. tractor would idle fine, run the PTO, then run out of power half-way down a row of grapes with the sprayer at full throttle. It would barely make it out of the row. I changed multiple filters and was going after the lift pump itself, when I found the bug's pinchers sticking out of the line. Grrrrr.

Yes, things can be frustrating. Calling for snow on tue/wens so after that I will try these suggestions first with blowing out fuel lines. Thanks everyone for all the suggestions.

 

[JIM MN]

Did the points GAP change again?? Put the old condenser back in distributer?? Is the gas shut-off under the gas tank clear open?? Take steel gas lines off, carburetor to transfer pump, trans fer pump to gas tank.. Blow out each line.. Take off gas cap and blow out line to the gas tank.. Is the gas line elbow with screen on carburetor clean??

 

[KettingbyBOB]

Hi Folks, thought I would update: I messed with distributor cap because two terminals looked burned, so I sanded them and rotor flange,
seemed to help as far as running but wouldn't take a full throttle or drive very far. Carb came off and gasket to manifold came off in pieces. Blew out the passage ways, and new gasket and WALAH it runs like a champ again. Enough to push a tree over and get in trouble with the wife..lol. Thanks for all your suggestions, I really appreciate them and pointed in right direction.