E10

[Jerry RV]

Can I run E10 ethanol in my 1948 M and my 1952 H tractors. Where I live it is very hard to find regular gasoline. Is there anything that can be added to the E10.
Thanks for any advice

 

[sd pete]

That ol M and H should do fine on 10% ethanol.

 

[sd pete]

I should of added that You may be cleaning the sediment bowl and carburetor screen more often.

 

[rustyfarmall]

(quoted from post at 08:45:37 08/04/14) Can I run E10 ethanol in my 1948 M and my 1952 H tractors. Where I live it is very hard to find regular gasoline. Is there anything that can be added to the E10.
Thanks for any advice

Mine have been running on E10 ever since I bought them. Between 10 to 16 years. Yes, the ethanol will loosen up and dissolve some of the crud in the fuel tank, but the sediment bowl will catch it. Might have to clean the bowl 2 or 3 times, but then you are home free.

 

[David G]

No problem, just keep eye on sediment bowl.

 

[robgIN]

you already have been for a long time now .....

 

[jeffcat]

One more thought. I run all of my garden tractors and saws on Hi-test now. Also add a little Star-tron to your gas. It breaks down the molecule so it will not blow up everything in your fuel system. Cost around $7.oo per bottle but just love the stuff.

 

[DaninKansas]

Its a lot better fuel than what got run through them when they were new.

 

[David G]

How does it blow up everything in your fuel system?

 

[FBH44]

I'm thinking my old 1939 owner's manual says something like "keep fuel in a closed container... at least 73 octane gasoline" or soemthing like that. I take it to mean these old machines are supposed to use actual gasoline, not the skimmings off old cans of barn paint cut with Mama's canning wax, and dont' store the stuff in open washtubs out behind the chicken shed... pretty forgiving machines, I think.

 

[sflem849]

(quoted from post at 05:41:50 08/05/14) I'm thinking my old 1939 owner's manual says something like "keep fuel in a closed container... at least 73 octane gasoline" or soemthing like that. I take it to mean these old machines are supposed to use actual gasoline, not the skimmings off old cans of barn paint cut with Mama's canning wax, and dont' store the stuff in open washtubs out behind the chicken shed... pretty forgiving machines, I think.

IIRC they used a different system to measure octane than we use today. None the less, our gas is better today.

 

[IH fan]

(quoted from post at 21:30:45 08/04/14) How does it blow up everything in your fuel system?

"Swell up" might be a more appropriate wording, I think is what he means. I don't know if 10% is enough to do that, and if it is, I don't know of any seals or anything that would swell up in those old fuel systems.

 

[rustyfarmall]

(quoted from post at 14:42:42 08/05/14)

(quoted from post at 21:30:45 08/04/14) How does it blow up everything in your fuel system?

"Swell up" might be a more appropriate wording, I think is what he means. I don't know if 10% is enough to do that, and if it is, I don't know of any seals or anything that would swell up in those old fuel systems.

There are NO parts or components in the fuel system that will be effected by ethanol. The only thing that will swell up would be the owners pride, once he finds out how well the tractor runs on E10.

 

[RTR]

(quoted from post at 18:04:07 08/06/14)

(quoted from post at 14:42:42 08/05/14)

(quoted from post at 21:30:45 08/04/14) How does it blow up everything in your fuel system?

"Swell up" might be a more appropriate wording, I think is what he means. I don't know if 10% is enough to do that, and if it is, I don't know of any seals or anything that would swell up in those old fuel systems.

There are NO parts or components in the fuel system that will be effected by ethanol. The only thing that will swell up would be the owners pride, once he finds out how well the tractor runs on E10.

That is nice to hear if that you're right about that. I did, however, notice that one of my Cubs developed a blockage after sitting over the winter (about 10 months). It was a whiteish gray powdery buildup. I always shut the gas off and run it out of the carb. Well the buildup was in the tube to the sediment bowl. Also took off the rebuilt carb and it had residue of the same stuff. I just [i:ae8dabedf7][b:ae8dabedf7]feel [/b:ae8dabedf7][/i:ae8dabedf7]like this ethanol gas aint good for these engines/carburetors.

 

[sflem849]

Running the carb and fuel lines out is your problems. That white powder is corrosion.

 

[RTR]

Corrosion from what though? I was always told and taught it was good practice to run the gas out of the carburetor so nothing can gum up. There is gas in the tank in those pictures, so how would corrosion happen there when gas is present?

 

[rustyfarmall]

(quoted from post at 08:37:38 08/06/14)
Corrosion from what though? I was always told and taught it was good practice to run the gas out of the carburetor so nothing can gum up. There is gas in the tank in those pictures, so how would corrosion happen there when gas is present?

That white, powdery substance in lawn mower carburetors was a problem LONG before ethanol came into existance. I find it is best to just park the machine for the winter with gasoline still in the carburetor AND the tank.

 

[dej(Jed)]

Ethanol isn't the problem. The corrosion is from the water.

 

[Mr. Farmall A]

(quoted from post at 12:21:32 08/06/14)
Ethanol isn't the problem. The corrosion is from the water.

Ethanol is corrosive and it causes galvanic corrosion since it is a fairly strong electrolyte. That white powder is galvanic corrosion from the Ethanol attacking the tank. Would be a good idea to coat the tank with something like redkote. Ethanol can corrode the brass floats and jets, pot metal castings, and cause rubber parts to become soft and swell or crack apart. Seen it alot with automotive carburetors.

The big problem is E10 has a much shorter shelf life than E0 before it starts going stale, and when E10 goes stale it begins to attack fuel system parts while E0 justs gums things up. Really the best motor fuel is propane, it stores better and doesn't attack or gum up parts.

 

[rustyfarmall]

(quoted from post at 09:38:50 08/07/14)

(quoted from post at 12:21:32 08/06/14)
Ethanol isn't the problem. The corrosion is from the water.

Ethanol is corrosive and it causes galvanic corrosion since it is a fairly strong electrolyte. That white powder is galvanic corrosion from the Ethanol attacking the tank. Would be a good idea to coat the tank with something like redkote. Ethanol can corrode the brass floats and jets, pot metal castings, and cause rubber parts to become soft and swell or crack apart. Seen it alot with automotive carburetors.

The big problem is E10 has a much shorter shelf life than E0 before it starts going stale, and when E10 goes stale it begins to attack fuel system parts while E0 justs gums things up. Really the best motor fuel is propane, it stores better and doesn't attack or gum up parts.

Once again, it is NOT the ethanol that is to blame. I have been tinkering on tractors, trucks, lawn mowers, etc. since the late '60s. I have seen that same white, powdery substance in many carburetors and fuel tanks, and this was a good 10 to 15 years BEFORE ethanol was introduced.