Early Ford 8N Goveror

[ErnDog50]

I have an early Ford 8N with the front distributor serial number 8N-7006. The tractor runs great but he governor housing cracked and was leaking oil. This tractor
does not have a proof meter. I checked online and could only find governors designed for a proof meter. However, the description of the governor indicated that it
could be used for older model 8N's without a proof meter (there is a metal plug screwed into the proof meter hole). I purchased one and installed it on the
tractor. It does not work. The governor basically does nothing and the engine always runs at full throttle. I was allowed to return the governor and was sent
another one, just in case the first one was defective. The results are the same; the motor only runs at full throttle. Any information regarding this issue or
just ideas and information would be very much appreciated.

 

[HCooke]

Pretty sure I have what you need. I have a couple of governor bodies, that I cannibalized the internal parts. Send me an email and I will send you pictures. You can a one for the price of shipping. They have a place for an oil line, BUT, there is a plug there so you could use it.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

HiYa Dog-
First, are you sure you have s/n 8N-7006? Where did you get that number from? No big deal as the important facts are if it has a front mount or angle mount distributor, and whether it is 6-volt or 12-volt, but those don't have anything do with the governor. Next, all new aftermarket governors sold today all have the NPT tapped plug hole for the Proofmeter oil line. If you don't have a proofmeter, you simply plug the hole, should be a plug already included on it, and leave it alone. You never just slap a new out-of-the-box part on as they almost always need tweaking. This goes for governors, carbs, distributors, and generators. Get out your I&T F-04 Manual and/or your 8N Operator's Manual as the governor setting procedure is detailed in them. Your carb must be set correctly as well in order to make proper governor adjustments. The governor makes carb butterfly adjustments by opening and closing it to maintain a set engine speed as load increase or decreases. You may find that your root cause is not the governor at all. You say it "...basically does nothing and the engine always runs at full throttle..." so that tells me your carb and or linkage is not set correctly. The I&T F-04 Manual has an R&R Procedure for rebuilding the governor and making adjustments. How did tractor run with old governor? If OK then reinstall it and the proceed to make carb right first.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​

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[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Just some friendly FYI: FoMoCo used special hand stamps for engine block serial numbers on ALL vehicles. Early s/n's used the star symbol (*) before and after to designate steel cylinder liners used. Later models changed to cast iron sleeves and then the symbol became a diamond (<>). ALL 9N and 2N tractors (except NAN, NBN, and Moto-Tugs) used the 9N prefix -there is no such thing as a "2N" stamped serial number. Engine block casting date codes were not the same however. Ford used a lower case letter 'b' for the numeral '6' and an inverted form was for the numeral '9'. The capital letter 'I' was used for the numeral '1' as well. This was the system of serial number identification only. Engine casting code dates were different. Letters were used to define month, i.e. A=JAN, B=FEB, etc. Casting date codes only marked the date the block was cast, not the date the tractor was built. You can add at least 30 days to your engine casting code date to get an APPROXIMATE date of actual tractor build. Check your number again located on a boss at the top by the head behind/near the oil filter housing. I think maybe you are reading a casting part number.

FORD ENGINE BLOCK SERIAL NUMBER HAND STAMPS:

FORD 8N ENGINE BLOCK CASTING DATE CODE:

This Casting Date Code defined as: January 3, 1950 and simply is the date the engine block was cast, not when the tractor was built.

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[TomD]

Housing cracked?

Believe it or not I repaired the pictured housing with JB Weld. The regular 2 part kind. Used the side edge of a small putty knife to fill and then smooth it out with the original line of the housing and it has been working now for 6 months or so.. no leaking . I have been working it pretty hard over the past month and a half.
The new governor I tried did just like the one you tried. It did nothing. I never could get it to govern the engine.
The damage shown in the above picture was caused because the shims wore out on the center gov. shaft and allowed the gov balls to come in contact with the housing. Over a long time you can see the results of that.
I replaced the shims to specs and used the JB Weld and everything works .. amazing. [/img]

I only wish I had taken a picture of the repair.. lol It worked for me.