electronic ignition

I'm putting electronic ignition in my 2510, made by Pertronix. do I still need the coil with a resistor in it or added to it if external resisted? some tell me I can put on a hotter coil with no resistor since no points to burn.
Gary
 
My suggestion would be to contact pertronix and ask that question. They may also have a special coil the reccommend. It varies by unit and better to check before you burn something out.
 
Gary, good questions: For years on here I've seen a lot of confusion over elec ignition so I will try and sort things out for you.


QUESTION

1) do I still need the coil with a resistor in it or added to it if external resisted?

ANSWER

Assuming its a 12 volt tractor and you use a 6 volt coil YES INDEED you still need to apply 6 NOT 12 volts across a 6 volt coil or else it will overheat WELL DUH. The way that's done if its a 12 volt tractor and a 6 volt coil is to add series voltage dropping (12 to 6) ballast resistor THIS IS TRUE REGARDLESS IF THE SWITCH IS OLD POINTS OR A NEW ELECTRONIC SWITCH, it just turns current on or off and doesnt affect coil voltage. HOWEVER if I bought a new elec switch Id go ahead and buy a 12 volt high energy performance coil that's compatible with your selected elec switch, and do away with any 6 volt coil and any ballast (subject to Pertronix recommendations below)


QUESTION
some tell me I can put on a hotter coil with no resistor since no points to burn

ANSWER

YES one of the advantages of an elec switch versus old arcing mechanical points is it usually has the capacity to conduct and switch higher current then points which was limited to around 4 amps max. So YES a high energy high voltage after market performance coil is usually selected to accompany a new elec switch that way you get more bang for the buck that elec switch has to offer. Sure it will still work with an old 12 volt stock coil or an old 6 volts coil plus ballast, but Id go ahead and upgrade to a high energy coil that mates up to your new switch.

CAUTION regardless if its a new 12 volt coil, I would ask Pertronix about the use of a series ballast because on some of their high energy ignition systems and high energy coils they may still use a ballast????????? ITS PERTRONIX THAT MUST ANSWER THAT QUESTION AND NONE OF US HERE including Billy Bob and Bubba lol ASK PERTRONIX IF THEY NEED BALALST ON SOME OF THEIR COILS AND DO AS THEY SAY NOTTTTTTTTTTTTT ANY OF US HERE

Got it, any questions???

NOTE this is NOT to start a feud over the advantages or dis advantages of points versus elec ignition. Both have advantages and possible drawbacks BUT SUCH IS NOT THE QUESTION YOU ASKED SO IM NOT OPENING THAT CAN OF WORMS

John T
 
(quoted from post at 11:38:59 06/02/16) I'm putting electronic ignition in my 2510, made by Pertronix. do I still need the coil with a resistor in it or added to it if external resisted? some tell me I can put on a hotter coil with no resistor since no points to burn.
Gary

The "hot " coil gains nothing unless it the engine is a supercharged or turbo V8 turning more than 5500rpm or a natural aspirated high compression V8 turning 7500rpm plus.
The "hot" coil does not add any more energy to the gasoline's 33.7KW/hr per gallon .
A plain boring NAPA coil is actually a very repectable unit.
 
John T. you're replying like at $400 hr. attorney. I put 6 of these kits on and never had a single problem, one kit has been on a friend's tractor for 15 years. I think these are better than canned beer with the snap tops. Personally I can't understand why everyone doesn't put them on and eliminate all the headaches of poor starting, plug fouling on low grade gas and the like. Everything has electronic ignition now. Just giving you a hard time but they are great. You can detail and no one will ever know the difference. You need direct 12 or 6 volt depending on unit and you can jump start off battery and make it work. You'll need to charge battery. These things are hotter than a 2$ pistol and will start under any conditions, produce around 35,000 volts and are not sensitive to any plug hot or cold. Never even changed a plug once installed. Took some of my old plug that had fouled previously and they worked fine. Best move the poster can make, follow the instruction. The donut is a little tricky. Standard timing applies. Good luck.
 
Hey Machinery man you state "John T. you're replying like at $400 hr. attorney" I JUST CANT HELP MYSELF LOL An Engineer and Attorney combination guy just cant keep it simple lol

Have a good one

John T
 
I guess I'm split on this one. I don't know anything about them so I had the only shop around which was a JD dealership install one in my 2510 this winter while it was overhauled. It lasted for 20 hours and quit. When it worked the tractor started great. When it quit it would produce a small spark but not enough to start. Took it back to the shop and they told me they thought the distributer was worn because the electric ignitions never go out. They put a new distributer in and still nothing. Took out the EI and converted back to stock and it fired up right now. They finally decided the new electric ignition was bad. Maybe I got a bad one or they installed it wrong, I don't know. That made me a little leary of them. At least the way it is now if need be I can run up to the local Napa and get it up running again.
 
Do not change the resistor if you do not change the coil.

The pertronix will need full voltage separately.
 
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