Electronic Ignition

LMack

Member
How much trouble is it to put an electronic ignition on a 200? If done, do you keep the 6-volt system? Does the change eliminate some of the ignition issues associated with the tractor after sitting up not firing until the points and distributor cap are cleaned or possibly replaced?
 
It is super easy. Pertronics makes them for 6v positive ground systems. They do make starting much better. They can fail, but very infrequently. Many also keep the breaker point components in case they do fail. I would also indicate that moisture can still get in the distributor cap, but it won't affect the Pertronics components, only the cap/rotor. A good buy in my opinion. Jim
 
I have electronic ignition on all my farmalls except one with a magneto. I have both 6V and 12V and the install is not very hard. I still have had a problem over the years with a bad distributor cap.
 
(quoted from post at 12:59:09 12/30/22) How much trouble is it to put an electronic ignition on a 200? If done, do you keep the 6-volt system? Does the change eliminate some of the ignition issues associated with the tractor after sitting up not firing until the points and distributor cap are cleaned or possibly replaced?

I am a fan of the Pertronix ignitions. I have a few and would recommend them.
Do Not accidentally leave the ignition switch power on to the coil!!!
Be very careful not to accidentally start the tractor in gear. After installing a Pertronix ignition IT WILL start in gear!! Don t ask how I know,,,I would rather not discuss that embarrassing moment.
 
I highly recommend Pertronix ignition. When I first got my 300, if it sat for 20 to 30 days it would not start unless I got out my dollar bill and cleaned the points. After putting in the Pertronix it starts within 2 revolutions!! Mine is on the original 6 volt system. The rep at Pertronix emphasized NOT leaving the switch on without the tractor running or you would be buying a new distributor module. A friend of mine had the same problems with his 900 Ford. He put a Pertronix on it and it starts the same within 2 revolutions. So I am a believer of the system.
 
is your tractor parked outside those original systems have been working just fine for many many yrs now, So you must be doing something wrong now to be having trouble. All of mine just seem to work fine without any problems sitting in a dirt floor unheated shed.
 
There are very few suppliers of point sets and condensers that are of the quality of even 15 years ago. The metallurgy and corrosion resistance are very poor. There may be nothing being done wrong Pertronics is a partial solution. Jim
 
Its just switch on and off.
If the have the switch, the other issues still remain.
Wire set ,cap, rotor ,distributor bushing wear , spark plugs ,oil fouling , antifreeze in combustion , low compression ,leaking valve stem seals
To name a few , this not the answer if you have these , its just a switch .
The Petronix is 120 bucks .
Compare it to 20 for point and condenser. So the pay back is more 25 years or more.
I ve had points last 40 years on Super C
Your choice .
 
I remember we had trouble with this back in the 1960's when the Farmalls we had were in everyday production. If one of these old units had to set up the ignition would foul out and need to be cleaned.
 
I got a good Ha Ha out of that! Brings memories to my mind about starting a 2000 Fordson (Perkins 3-cylinder) standing on the ground with the tractor in first. Good thing I was a kid. Had to chase down my pickup one time using it to jump start an old one-ton dump truck. Dump truck was in first and the PU was in park. Dump truck stalled out after sending the PU down the road toward a stand of Oak trees. I was still young, foolish, and quick in those days.
 
Thanks for the input and Gene I understand your point. I think you must be a much better mechanic than I. After sitting for a couple of months (under the shed) it tends to be hard to crank. Sometimes the dollar bill thing works but most often I have to remove either the oil filter or the distributor and file and re-set the points. It usually cranks right up after that. Right now, it is like it came out of the factory with the original ignition type, but the ignition change will alter that.
 
my main B which is the most used one outside of the lawn mower one hasnt had any points for 40yrs or so it even set at 10,000 ft on our COLORADO prop would set under the house all winter then in spring would start rite up with the I-H dist it has just been trouble free so it just dont make sense why people have trouble with points ect the lawn mower has mag hasnt been touched in over 20yrs when i built the new engine even burn ethanol no problems maybe i have magic dust in the shop
 
''Sometimes the dollar bill thing works''

I have never understood WHY anyone would do that, besides the ink on the bill there's oil (and God knows what else) on the paper from the hands that have handled it.

Points need to be CLEAN of all oil and debris if you want them to last.

Instead, use some clean white paper cardstock to burnish them, followed by (with the points now ''open'') a shot of electrical contact cleaner to remove any debris, then allow to air-dry before attempting to start the engine.
 
wore out wrote:
". . . besides the ink on the bill there's oil (and God knows what else) on the paper from the hands that have handled it. . . ."

I agree. I suggest kraft paper (what all grocery bags were in the past). They haven't been handled much and are usually pretty clean. If you can't find a paper grocery sack, rip a layer out of the side of a cardboard box. It is slightly abrasive and soaks up any reasonable amount of oil it contacts.

This post was edited by Jim Becker on 01/03/2023 at 10:14 am.
 
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