Engine heaters for cold weather

Dave H (MI)

Well-known Member
Been reading all the cold weather starting posts on the various forums this year. A lot of conflicting information. I want to get some type of heater for a 2N that sits outside in the weather that will assist me with cold weather starting. Is there one type more than others that would be good in our Michigan winters?
 
A garage with in-floor heat? :P

Mine is kept in an unheated machine shed (central IL) - sitting out of the wind helps a lot, I think. I did buy a magnetic heater this fall for warming the hydraulic fluid, but as I just changed from 90w to the CNH 134 lube, I really don't need it any more.

I see where some folks use a radiator hose heater, with differing opinions on how much good they do.

I did dig out my heat gun, as some folks said they've used one to warm the carb and manifold prior to attempting a start. Haven't had a chance to try it, tho. My tractor starts pretty good right down to naught° and even colder sometimes.

The way I look at it, if it's too cold to start the tractor, it's too cold to be out there on it!

es
 
If the heater will be plugged in for a while (overnight) before you need the tractor you can't beat a "block heater".

For those applications where there's no block heater available, the next-best thing is a lower radiator hose heater for the same type of "plug it in ahead of time" use.

For those applications where the tractor is needed on short notice, it's hard to beat a high-wattage tank heater 1000, 1500, or even 2000 Watts.

With a little ingenuity they can be plumbed into most all applications.

Check out Phillips and Temro.com or Kats engine heaters on the web.
 
(quoted from post at 15:35:14 01/09/10) A garage with in-floor heat? :P

Mine is kept in an unheated machine shed (central IL) - sitting out of the wind helps a lot, I think. I did buy a magnetic heater this fall for warming the hydraulic fluid, but as I just changed from 90w to the CNH 134 lube, I really don't need it any more.

I see where some folks use a radiator hose heater, with differing opinions on how much good they do.

I did dig out my heat gun, as some folks said they've used one to warm the carb and manifold prior to attempting a start. Haven't had a chance to try it, tho. My tractor starts pretty good right down to naught° and even colder sometimes.

The way I look at it, if it's too cold to start the tractor, it's too cold to be out there on it!

es
Last week there was a flurry of posts about this subject. I have a couple of old magnetic block heaters so I did some experimenting. The temps were usually around +5 deg. F.
NAA 12 volt
Tractor sits outside no protection.
Throttle 1/3 up from idle
Block heater on oil pan for 2+ hrs did okay . Turned over several times while feathering choke but finally caught.
Block heater on intake for two hrs. Still started very hard. Probably due to poor contact.
Then I tried heat gun on carb/manifold for 10 minutes. No block heaters. Tractor fired, caught and started within 2 seconds no choke. Just like summer time. Since then that is how I've been doing it. Tomorrow I will rig something to hold the gun and operate from a switch in the house.
Dunk was right. It realy is the best method. At least in my case.
 
Zerostart makes a 600 Watt block heater for the NAA.

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/NAAheater.jpg">

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/NAAheater1.jpg">

I challenge you to install one, warm the engine for several hours with the heater before trying to start it, then report back to use on what's SLICK and what's not.

NO WAY will the magnetic heaters or hairdryers restrained on a broomstick stuck in the ground beat a good blockheater for function, simplicity and ease of use.
 
I just came in from two hours of plowing snowdrifts (some were halfway up the front grill)...

No heat assist when I started it up; temp in the shed was probably around 5-10°, but it got down to -11° last night, so the engine was definitely cold-soaked.

Put the throttle on the first screw and with full choke, it popped on the first revolution but didn't catch. Second try was the charm - had to fiddle with the choke a bit more than normal until it smoothed out.

With the 134 oil, my hydraulics are ready to go as soon as the engine smooths out. Before I changed from the 90w, I did notice a definite improvement by leaving the mag heater on the hydro sump overnight - went from taking 15-20 minutes before the oil heated up to "normal" to around 5-10 minutes.

When I shut down just now, I left the mag heater on the exhaust manifold as close to the intake as possible... don't know if that will make any difference at all, but thought I'd give it a try. The heat gun sounds like the better way to go after your report.

es
 
I agree and I live in N Central Wisc. where the snow squeaks when you walk on it, and I have experimented with EVERYTHING!
 
Just been googling around looking at the lower radiator hose heaters and the tank type heaters. Here is the deal...I have no clue how these work and the sellers really assume that you do when they write the descriptions. So, can anyone tell me the difference between the two and what exactly it is that they do? Seems hard to believe that a heater somehow attached to a radiator hose can have a lot of impact on the entire engine...outside...at zero degrees? If anyone has the time and cares to spend it on me I would be grateful.
 
when it is o-15 degress F. all I have to do is turn on the gas ,pull the chock ou all the way, hit the starter and the '49 8n fires righ up. Can't ask for any better than that. :D
 
(quoted from post at 17:15:14 01/09/10) Zerostart makes a 600 Watt block heater for the NAA.
I challenge you to install one, warm the engine for several hours with the heater before trying to start it, then report back to use on what's SLICK and what's not.
NO WAY will the magnetic heaters or hairdryers restrained on a broomstick stuck in the ground beat a good blockheater for function, simplicity and ease of use.
Hey, don't wet your pants. I said in my post It was the best method [b:369d59eebd]in my case[/b:369d59eebd], given to what I had to test it against. Currently I haven't the money for a block heater nor do I have the inclination to install it with sub zero temps and no garage. So unless your willing to send me a heater I guess I will continue with my heat gun on a broomstick. It's still pretty [b:369d59eebd]slick[/b:369d59eebd] to me
[i:369d59eebd][/i:369d59eebd]
 
Heat rises
Heat rises! Install it so the discharge side is higher, and after a while the water circulates itself. It works, the tank type is
more efficient, but harder to install. A few degrees makes a big difference. A rug and a light bulb works too, but always a fire danger.
 
I use a MAP gas burns-o-matic torch on the intake manafold (gas off!)for about 60 sec or so ("till the manifold drys out) turn the gas on, a little choke with the throtle 3/4 ant hit the start button "till she starts then full throtle, then let the old girl warm up for a bit while I go inside to get my cold weather gear on and go to work....The trick is to get the gas to atomize which it wont do in the extreme cold without a lil help.
 
I also am a big fan of the zero start frost plug type of block heaters. I have a 4000 diesel with the zero start frost plug unit and can go out and start it on a day when it is below zero like nothing. I also keep it plugged in all of the time even though I only use it a few times a month in the winter(unless it snows)
 
The 3100087 heaters are only $25 to $40, depending upon where you buy them.

NOT a big deal.

I'll look tomorrow, I may have a spare and I've no more tractors in that series. If I do, it's yours for the asking. email me.

[email protected]
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top