Engine on H Troubleshooting

[Farmall65]

Is there an adjustment on the pressure plate tabs? Not sure if the tabs are not adjusted correctly, causing the motor not to to turn freely when the engine is put back on the tractor. when the bolts that go thru the rails into the bell housing are tightened up all the way. The crankshaft turned when the bolts were halfway tightened but when drawn down completely, the crank wouldn't even turn. (COMPLETE TIGHT)

 

[David G]

You sure clutch disk is on right way around?

 

[Farmall65]

Yeah I had the same though at first.. it is right. The longer side facing towards the motor

 

[teddy52food]

It is backwards!

 

[Farmall65]

Oh ok so the side with the shiny flange that contains any grease that is flung around, goes towards the tractor then?

 

[gene bender]

Disc is on backwards short side next to flywheel

 

[Nebraska Kirk]

(quoted from post at 21:38:14 02/17/16) Yeah I had the same though at first.. it is right. The longer side facing towards the motor

WRONG!! You have it in BACKWARDS!!

 

[DeltaRed]

Short side TO the flywheel. Long side to the transmission.

 

[CenTex Farmall]

Yes, slinger plate toward the flywheel.

 

[D Slater]

Maybe off my rocker but don't think just having the disc backwards would keep engine from turning unless you mean with tractor in gear and trying to release clutch with pedal to then turn engine. Heck if I know what it is but sounds like something wedging. Is it the same pressure plate removed?
Not sure the direction you mean. If disc has a grease shield it goes to flywheel.

 

[Farmall65]

Ok got the disk in the right way.. what do the pressure plate tabs need to be adjusted to? Couldn't find it in the manual, the tabs are tight when you trying pushing in towards the flywheel on them?

 

[D Slater]

Not enough info. Is this a new or same pressure plate? Tabs you refer to, are they adjusting screws on the fingers that contact release bearing? Or screws and lock nuts on the pressure plate? Have to overcome spring pressure to push fingers toward flywheel. Some new pressure plates come with bolts to compress PP springs and are removed after bolting to flywheel. If so the fingers may not push in more. Other possibility is a PP not assembled correct.
But No matter if the pressure plate adjustments are out it shouldn't keep engine from turning unless something on flywheel or PP cover is contacting something in the housing.
Do you have the pin out of rod from clutch pedal to release bearing operating shaft when trying. If not and a change was made you could have forced the PP fingers to far in and put a lot of pressure on crankshaft to thrust bearing. Engine still should have turned but maybe hard.

 

[Farmall65]

Tithe Pressure Plate Has Bolts And Lock nuts.. What Are You Saying To Do To To Get The Tabs To Engage And Move Inward When Pushing On them?

 

[D Slater]

Don't think I'm very good at getting what I mean across sometimes. If your clutch is like one of the pictures and you point out what you think the problem is maybe some of the guys can help you better.
Will say if this is a new or same clutch and PP that was in it and that's what's keeping the engine from going all the way to housing something is messed up with the parts. Finger or PP adjustment shouldn't keep it from going together. May not work right after but don't think they could be adjusted far enough not to go together.

 

[rhtx55]

Is the starter installed when it locks up ?

 

[Farmall65]

Don't really think it's one like you've got pictured. The engine does slide all the way into the housing but whenever the rail bolts are tightened all the way, only then the motor can't be turned by hand with a rod in the crankshaft. My only guess is that it is something related to the clutch linkage and the tabs on the pressure plate not engaging. By the way the clutch disk was bad so a new one is in its place. Also the front wheels are off the tractor, have then reared and just trying to get the motor buttoned back up. Thanks for all the input! This is my FFA Chapter's tractor and I'm trying to be the one to get it restored. Previous years class completely dissembled it and I'm basically scrounging around with what is left of it.

 

[Farmall65]

Will upload some pictures in the morning to show everyone what Im working with.

 

[john *.?-!.* cub owner]

Did you take the drive shaft out? If you get the coupler wrong it will cause that also.

 

[Farmall65]

This is what the tractor looks like, motor is put back on but still is tight when the rail bolts are tightened up.

 

[Farmall65]

Front Motor Picture

 

[Janicholson]

An Idea: Before putting it back together make sure the new Driven friction disk will slide fully onto the splines of the clutch shaft. Leave the pressure plate loose on the Flywheel with the bolts maybe 3 turns in from starting. This assures the pilot shaft (tip of the clutch shaft) a chance at being centered in the pilot bearing in the center of the Flywheel. It can hang there easily with no issues. If the new disk is identical to the old disk, it should be OK. The adjustment of the finger adjustment screws and lock nuts is not usually done except in a fixture. Leave them alone. With the engine sliding in (almost) it is difficult to see what happens in the last few thousandths of an inch, don't give up. Jim

 

[Farmall65]

For anyone out there wondering what the culprit was.. the flywheel bolts didn't have a lock washer on them causing them to stuck out too far, which resulted in rubbing on the rear crankshaft seal causing the motor not to turn at all when the rail bolts were tightened all the way. Feels good to have it figured out.