ENGINE REBUILD

Zhaque

Member
I'm just curious. My 1020 has quite a bit of blow-by after it gets warmed up. Just wondering how much, if any, blow-by is normal.
I am also wondering with a ball park figure how expensive would an engine rebuild be ? I kinda love the old thing and have dreams of getting it back to as close to new as I can. It's gas.
 
I'm just curious. My 1020 has quite a bit of blow-by after it gets warmed up. Just wondering how much, if any, blow-by is normal.
I am also wondering with a ball park figure how expensive would an engine rebuild be ? I kinda love the old thing and have dreams of getting it back to as close to new as I can. It's gas.
Power issues? Starting issues? Compression test results? What is the oil usage, number of hours per quart added? Operating oil pressure compared to specs in the service manual? What oil are you using?

Full out of frame rebuild or in frame? How much of the rebuild can you do? How much goes to a shop? Things can make a difference in cost.
 
OK. counting parts listed, How much total can I expect to pay to have the job done at a dealer ?
I agree with ss55, if you are planning on a dealer doing it ask them to give you the estimate. And don't be surprised if they include supplying the parts (not using your parts or a price for them you have) as they will be warrantying their work. Are you pulling the engine or including that in the shop work? Clutch replacement? Dyno break in?

I am guessing you could be at least in the $10,000 range if you have a dealer shop do everything.
 
At our local dealers rate 6K in labor

Plus your parts list id double the amount shown from yesterdays tractor 2800

8 to 9k.

I did a week of labor for easy figuring at 150 per hour that is probably excessive on this little one but depends on the person they put on the job.

I usually flat rate around 3K labor for a 4 cylinder in-frame. Anything that needs to visit the machinist is added to that so that doesn’t include surfacing the head for sure and whatever else is needed.

For all but the cheapest people I usually have the machine shop grind the valve seats and valves while I’m working on the bottom end it speeds up the process. You can expect the tractor to be gone approximately one month. And that’s with the machine shop with 1 week turnaround. There’s a local place I don’t use anymore with a 3 month. The 3 month place will try to just replace the valves but by the time he orders the correct valves it’s another month.

You can save a ton of money if you do it yourself. Enough to probably buy a spare 1020.
 
3 yrs ago I had my JD 4255 engine which is a 6 not 3 cylinder engine overhauled at local JD dealership for $7900 due to failed lower cylinder liner packing allowing coolant to enter crankcase.
 
I'm glad somebody else said the things I was thinking. A dealer will be ten grand and that you'll be better off to go buy a better one, or two. Your tractor will never be worth what a dealer will charge to overhaul it. You'll have to do it yourself or find a cheaper shop. Even then, if you don't do it yourself, you'll be right up against the value of the tractor when you're done.
 
On the low end with a machine shop planing your head, you do most of the rest of the work, and things such as the old rod and main bearings plus crankshaft being within spec therefore reuseable 3,000 dollars. The more machine shop work needed such as replacing valve seats, grinding crankshaft. and full overhaul kit over 6,500 dollars.
 
It adds up in a hurry, If it's a diesel you should probably get the pump done. I am looking to do one of my MF 50s this summer, I figure I will get at least $1,500 wrapped up in parts and machine work. Is the tractor worth it? Unlikely, but it will keep me busy.
 
I've been looking at an in-frame rebuild. I think I am mechanically well enough off that I think I can get the job done and a lot cheaper than dealer cost. I just want to be sure to order the right kit, it seems those engines had different sleeves.
 
Yes, three different sleeves. Jdemaris told me to be sure to take the engine serial number with me when I needed one. I took the old sleeve, gave him the engine serial number, tractor serial number and told him there were three choices, be sure you get the right one. It came the next day and was the wrong one. One has the o rings in the sleeve, one has them in the block, then there's what he called a bullet sleeve. I don't know for sure what that one is.
 
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