Engine Won't Turn Over

Ronnie G

Member
I overhauled an engine on a 8N, it sat for about three weeks as I restored the rest of the tractor. I tried to start, the engine turned less than a 1/4 turn then stopped. Voltage to coil, alternator, battery & starter O.K. I put trans. in forth gear & rocked the tractor forward & backward, the fan did not budge, rear tire skidded on concrete, what gives?
Tks,
Ronnie G.
 
Ronnie......you could have "hydro-lock" of one of your pistons. PULL ALL yer sparkies and then see iff'n it will turn over. ALWAYS REMEMBER to turn yer under the tank fuel valve OFF. Gravity don't stop working and will drain yer gastank into enny open intake valve and cause hydraulic lock. .......Dell
 
Spark plugs were out & hood was off. I have a make-shift gas can that I put on the rear wheel to begin with to make sure everything is running before I install the hood, however I did not hook up the gas tank. I just wanted it to turn over first. I did not remove the plug on the new carb. Do you think that this might be the problem, or possibly the pistons set too long without the engine turning over?
 
Ronnie.......us guessers are only as good as what the guessee tells us. Based upon yer original description and challenge, hydraulic lock seemed to be a reasonable cause and effect. Despite yer protestations, it STILL a reasonable suspect. PULL yer sparkies and try to turn yer engine. DON'T ARGUE!!!

Now that you have yer sparkies out and iff'n it still don't turnover, pour about 1-oz (tablespoon) of ATF down the sparkie holes and wait a day, then try and turn yer engine.

Generally speaking, it takes longer than 3-weeks to rust-tite a new rebuilt sealed engine. Engines are generally assembled with assembly lube (oil). You did remember to pour 6-qts of oil into the oilpan didn't you??? .......respectfully, Dell
 
Did you shave the head??? that's a no-no.....did you use proper torque sttting on the rod and main bearings???? Better yet did you platic gauge any of them?? Did the motor spin by hand after installing the pistons, before you put the head on? The clutch could be stuck, are you sure it's in neutral? Easy mistakes that we have all done before! Good luck
 
Tight compression on a weak battery? Freshly rebuild engines are usually tight and hard to start - especially on a weak battery. If you have a hand crank, see if you can spin it by hand. I also agree with pulling the spark plugs - it stops the compression and allows the engine to spin and hopefully build up oil pressure to lube everything down.

Good luck,
Dan
 
The most likely problem is the starter is locked into the flywheel ring gear since you have eleminated it being a liquid lock when you removed the plugs. It happens!

If you can get it to come loose by rocking in highest gear then loosen the two long bolts retaining the starter to the housing and whack the starter with a big hammer. If the starter still seems to be tight in the housing try driving a chisel between the housing and the starter front plate/housing.

Zane
 
A man who I used to work with (God rest his soul) who is not dead was one of the messiest mechanics I ever worked with had just this sort of problem once with a Dexta engine overhaul. Dragged the tractor all over town and it would not move. Finally pulled the head back off and there was a flat washer imbedded into one of the pistons that probably got stuck to the head while it was sitting on his cluttered work bench. We dug the flat washer out of the piston with a chisel and put the head back on and it cranked right up.
DUH!!!!!

ane
 
If she turned a little then stopped solid, I'd look at physical things keeping it from turning, and don't try to force it until you find out what's wrong. Many engines have been stopped by simple stuff like flywheel bolts that were too long hitting the block, or just something in the cylinder- and if it's something like that, forcing it will bust it. I'd check things out before going much further, and if you can borrow a borescope, you might find something the easy way, but won't get all the views if the engine doesn't turn- but it is a flathead, and the head comes off pretty easily. Have you tried gently trying to hand turn it backwards? If it came up against something in the driveline or in one of the cylinders, it should be able to go back just a bit- gently. If it only moves back a little before resistance, might be flywheel bolts- if it's something in one of the cylinders, you'll get to see more with the borescope. Once again, be gentle, don't force it- you should never have to tow a fresh engine to start it- if you do, something's wrong, and it only gets more expensive by towing it- either in breakage or future engine life
 
Well you not going to believe this !!!! I took the starter out & tried to turn the flywheel with a prybar & was able to turn the engine over 1 revolution. I thought the starter might be bad, so I took it down & had it bench tested. It did not rotate. The person that checked it, said the solenoid was backwards, & yes I put it on. The solenoid had a small sticker thet was labeled" Bat", so I of course put the positive lead there. It boiled downed to flipping the solenoid 180 degrees. I re-installed the starter, turned the key, engine rotates like it should. Another bogus Tisco part...Thanks for all of the suggestions...
Ronnie G.
 
Well you not going to believe this !!!! I took the starter out & tried to turn the flywheel with a prybar & was able to turn the engine over 1 revolution. I thought the starter might be bad, so I took it down & had it bench tested. It did not rotate. The person that checked it, said the solenoid was backwards, & yes I put it on. The solenoid had a small sticker thet was labeled" Bat", so I of course put the positive lead there. It boiled downed to flipping the solenoid 180 degrees. I re-installed the starter, turned the key, engine rotates like it should. Another bogus Tisco part...Thanks for all of the suggestions...
Ronnie G.
 
Now that you have the engine spinning this is what I would do. Remove the plugs. Fill with oil. Prime oil pump. Leave key off and jump starter with a 12 volt battery to front post on solenoid. Make sure you don't back feed 6 volt system. If you are not sure on how to do this ask. Make sure tractor is out of gear because the engine will spin as soon and jumper hits stud. Crank until you get oil pressure on gage. 5-10 pounds is good. Don't crank more then 15-30 seconds if necessary and check to make sure starter is not getting hot. I never try to start a rebuilt engine without first making sure I get oil pressure.
 
Super News!!!!! It was the solenoid, it was installed backwards. I took the starter down & it was strong as a bull. The tech said the solenoid was backwards. I did put that one on, however it was labeled wrong with a sticker, thanks again, Tisco. Just got her running tonight. No oil pressure though, so I shut her down. Will prime hole on front of block tomorrow ,if no help, will drain oil & check p/u tube for rigidity.
Thanks for everyone's advice...

Ronnie G
 
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