Eureka with H...almost.....helppppp!

[hbauer]

Making progress. Got the H to start and run for about three minutes.
I put a half bottle of injector cleaner in gas prior thereto and poked around with fuel tank switch bottom. Definitely getting good gas now.
But....
When I put load on engine and tried to back up, it died. Starter button getting really hot...I am beginning to think starter motor sucking too much current. when start a few times, battery, which is new, is nearly dead.
After trying more, don"t even get click out of starter solenoid.

I don"t think starter ignition button should get that hot. Do I have a bad starter or bad ignition switch? What do you guys think?

Is it a no brainer to put a new starter motor in?

Appreciate your advice as usual.

Hbauer

 

[glennster]

first check if the bendix in the starter is jammed up to the flywheel, with the tractor in 5th, key off, gently rock the back wheel to turn the motor a little bit, you only need a 1/4 inch or so, then try and start it again. you can also loosen the starter mount bolts a few turns out ad wiggle the starter. next, check all your battery cables for corrosion and clean them up. you should be running big cables if its 6v. if that still doesnt correct it, you may need to have the starter rebuilt. the bushings wear and the armature gets pulled kinda sideways, eating up a lot of power, or you may have an internal short in the starter.

 

[mulcher]

I was mowing with a H today. Had to jump it to get it started because the starter switch won't make contact anymore. Tonight I took it apart and years of being outside made the contacts corroded. Tried to clean them up and put it back together but the little tabs that hold it together broke off so off to the auto parts store tomorrow for a new one. This one looked like it had been hot at one time to. H's had different kinds of starter switches. This one is fairly large and has large cables to it and sets by the steering wheel. If you have a starter solenoid then thats probably been added. My W9 has had starter solenoid added to it and I have had it stick several times. Always have to tap it to make sure it shuts off or the starter stays engaged and things get hot.The H I was using today is the neighbors. Wish it was mine, neat little tractor.

 

[Janicholson]

The scoop as I see it. The Ignition button (pull on, push in off) with a mushroom head/knob should never get hot -ever- . There are two reasons for it to do so. If the coil wire is drawing excessive current because of a shorted coil, wire touching something, or other improper connection. The only wire outgoing from the ignition button/switch is the coil wire, and it goes to a ballast resistor if 12v and the coil is for use with a resistor. or directly to the coil if it is 12v with a coil that needs no resistor, or if it is 6v. The other reason is the switch itself that can go bad and have high resistance getting hot. It happens! If the coil is correct, and it had run with the setup, I would suspect the switch being bad.
The starter switch should not get hot either. If it does, it is in need of replacement. (or the starter is dragging internally from bad bearings, or a shorted winding). The starter draw measured with a cheap hold to the cable meter should be no more than 300 to 350 amps. if more suspect the starter. JimN

 

[hbauer]

Thanks all.. an update: The Glennster was right..I had a stuck flywheel engagement gear. Now starter turns but reluctantly. Switch at steering wheel--push switch--gets hot right away.

I don"t like this switch anyway. Can I change to a keyed switch???Anybody know? Is any brand switch okay? By the was it was the push starter heating up, not the mushroom head circuit switch.

Can get tractor to start, but runs rough for about two minutes and shuts off. Adjusted screws, top to 1.5 turns, bottom to 3 turns. Backing out the top does not appear to increase rpms.

Battery discharges rapidly when trying to start. Battery is new and was charged up overnight on a trickle charger.

To sum up: appears I need at least starter switch..but I think starter is shorted.

As to rough running,,what do you think..take carb down again and have it blown out???

Thank you all so much. What a great bunch of guys on this web site! Hbauer

 

[Janicholson]

Test the fuel supply in the line coming to the carb.
It should flow like running through a regular sweetheart soda straw into a can. if it does, then check the screen at the carb inlet, and the needle and seat for flow the same amount. Check the starter draw as I indicated in my post, and buy a new heavy duty Start switch. JimN