F20 Fan mount

[EL_Tractor]

Hello, although I've spent much time over at the Ford forum I'm new to this forum. I hope to spend more time over here as I've acquired a 1937 Farmall F20, and have been tearing down, cleaning, derusting and repairing. I have several manuals for parts, service and ops, but am stumped regarding a part used to mount the fan assembly to the block. My engine has the flat belt and pulleys, and the fan mount/tensioning assy pivots on a shaft that protrudes from the front top right corner of the engine block. What I'm trying to figure out is how it is fastened to the block. There is a thin backup washer between the shaft boss and the block, so I'm guessing that it's screwed in and not pressed in. There is precious little casting above the shaft so I'm really leery of torqueing too hard on it. None of my manuals show a part number or sketch to maybe give a clue.

So, any F20 folks have some experience with this? I know the v-belt version is completely different, doesn't use the shaft and is shown throughout the manuals. Thanks much for any help offered - Evan.

 

[Fras]

It threads in

 

[Oldiron29]

It is treaded in, I had one just like yours about same amount of wear. I did not want to bugger it all up trying to get it out so I welded it some and with
angle grinder and a file cleaned it up and put it back together should last another 80 years.

 

[EL_Tractor]

Thanks, Fras. As I suspected then.

 

[EL_Tractor]

Oldiron that's a great approach. I was planning to just turn a new one on my lathe, but am too worried about screwing up my block getting it out. I can weld it up (or even bronze weld) and dress it down as you described, and although not perfect it'll be a lot better than it is now. Like you said, it will out last me!

 

[F-Dean]

Why do you want to remove it? This piece looks good. If the bracket is in decent shape, put it back together and run it. F-20's are not high RPM tractors.

 

[EL_Tractor]

The fan bracket just pivots on this shaft (doesn't spin), but is fairly wobbly from the wear. Being that it's a flat belt, I'm worried that it is not going to track well, and may just flyoff the pulleys. This was not a running tractor when I got it, so just don't know.

 

[3LFarms]

I would not worry too much about it throwing the belt. As that shaft wears, the fan tilts and will contact the radiator before it throws the belt off. If the blades are not getting anywhere near the radiator, it will work as is.
That being said, I welded mine up so it fits nicely and holds the fan straight.

 

[EL_Tractor]

3L, I'd feel better about improving it just because it's a pretty sloppy fit, and I can do the fix. Did you weld yours up in place, or were you able to remove the shaft? Thanks, Evan

 

[3LFarms]

I did not remove it, but the radiator was off and the tractor pretty well disassembled.

 

[EL_Tractor]

Ok, thanks. One thing I'm starting to figure out is with this old tractor you have to pick and choose your battles. Leaving well enough alone rather than trying to make a part like new may prevent ruining an unobtainable or impossible/very costly to repair part. Totally different approach than working with a Ford 8N!

 

[rustred]

its really straight forward, at least try and remove it, they are not all that tight, whats with all this procrastinating . i can see all
the wear from lack of grease.

 

[EL_Tractor]

Rustred, yeah, I'm a bit ashamed for sounding like a whoos, but I'm scared I'm going to bust something. I did put my 180lb onto a pipe wrench and it did not budge. That's when I started getting nervous. Peeking into the jackets with a mirror and judging from the outside, there just isn't a lot of casting surrounding that part. Maybe I'll hit it with the torch a bit first and try again. - Evan

 

[rustred]

get a 24" er on it. i dont even see any marks on the shoulder. sure u can put all your weight on a 12" but that wont do it. i dont think it
is rusted either being on the engine. get some down pressure on the 24 then get someone to give it a rap with a 5 lb. hammer. that a one gulp
of beer job as tv says.

 

[EL_Tractor]

(quoted from post at 17:21:20 03/11/21) get a 24" er on it. i dont even see any marks on the shoulder. sure u can put all your weight on a 12" but that wont do it. i dont think it
is rusted either being on the engine. get some down pressure on the 24 then get someone to give it a rap with a 5 lb. hammer. that a one gulp
of beer job as tv says.

OK, I finally got around to it. 24" pipe wrench did the job. No beer, but had a big cup of joe. Now I'll machine up a new one this morning. -E.

 

[DMartin9N-2N]

Good morning: Just a thought here: If you reinstalled the existing piece with a different thickness washer, so it would be in a different position when you tighten it, could that put the good side where the worn side was before? Just cheap thinking here, making a new part would be more satisfying.

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

 

[EL_Tractor]

(quoted from post at 08:40:28 05/22/21) Good morning: Just a thought here: If you reinstalled the existing piece with a different thickness washer, so it would be in a different position when you tighten it, could that put the good side where the worn side was before? Just cheap thinking here, making a new part would be more satisfying.

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

Hey Dennis, yes that, or a shim would position the unworn sections of the shaft to the load bearing locations. But, since I got it out, which was my initial worry, I went ahead and repaired it. Ended up building it up with weld bead and turning it back down to a little oversize. The bracket that pivots on it is worn as well, and should be bored and bushed, but making the shaft a tad larger OD helped a lot. Way better than it was. - Evan