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F20d Rebuild

Yesterday's Tractor Forums
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'68 Coronet R/T-HT

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Hi all,
I am new to the forum and Yanmar tractors. Recently bought a F20D that seems to run decent but has a couple of issues that I need to address.
1. You can see white smoke coming out of the blow by hose.
2. The engine does not start easily. The previous owner stated he has to pump the accelerator pedal while starting and uses the glow plugs.
3. The engine will idle and drive just fine but very slowly uses up the coolant. (I can see little puffs of white smoke when accelerating.) The previous owner said that if he works it real hard it will start to overheat. He also stated that he never let it get super heated.

My intention is to go ahead and do an in frame rebuild of this motor. I ordered a Service Manual for it yesterday but have not received it as yet.
Can someone tell me if they sell rebuild kits for these motors? Also if you have any tips or advice for me please feel free to contribute. I have built numerous gasoline engines but this will be my first diesel.
Thanks,
Jim
 
Pumping the accelerator pedal does nothing on a diesel. A lot of Yanmars don't even have a pedal. you should start at full throttle. How are you a troubleshooting for a blown head gasket? No rebuild kit, but my tip is "don't do it unless necessary".
 
The coolant is dirty and contains an oily film. That combined with the coolant level going down and white smoke from the exhaust and blow by tube combined with an overheating problem. Why would you suggest not rebuilding the motor? I figure if I have to pull the head anyway why not put new rings and bearings in?
 
What does the hour meter show on the tractor? That white blow by sure is a classic symptom of worn rings but it could also be caused by your head gasket. Hard starting also a classic symptom of bad rings but also could be caused by a bad head gasket. When my head gasket went my tractor would still crank as normal. Just based on what you have so far stated I sort of believe you are going to have the blow by when you get through replacing the head gasket. The head gasket for your model is about $73. I personally would not reuse a head gasket on these high compression engines. I'm not saying do or don't but you may likely spend a $100 or so and be back at square one. At this point a compression test could be misleading knowing your head gasket is bad. Do you know how long the gasket has been leaking?
 
First let me say thank you both for the responses.
The previous owner bought the tractor from a dealer that claimed it was "refurbished" (yes I read the article about such claims) and the clock was set to zero at that time. It now reads 210 hours.
He also told me the tractor ran great up till about a year ago when it overheated while he was working it pretty hard moving dirt. He said he shut it off immediately and let it cool down then restarted it and moved it to the barn. Flushed out the radiator, replaced the coolant and looked for but did not find a thermostat in the tractor (stated he believed they did not use one) then tried to use it again to finish moving the dirt but it kept wanting to overheat. He insists he never let it get superheated and I don't think he did since it seems to run fine once started and at a no load situation will not overheat at least for the 30 minutes or so it was running while I looked at it and drove it.
He parked it in the barn and bought a new and larger Ford model and the Yanmar has sat ever since.

My thinking on the matter is related to experience working on car engines. That when dealing with unknown mileage (hours in this case) and that fact that it is not a lot more work to do once the head is pulled changing the rings and rod bearings is given. However I do not have experience with diesels and only know they are able to survive and perform much longer than gasoline engines.

On a side note, I have been cleaning the grease and gunk off the tractor and noticed that the rear axle area is painted gloss black yet the front portion of the frame and engine is a greenish/gray color. Any significance to this?
 
I notice the head bolts are listed as "one time use" does this mean the original ones need to be replaced when the head is pulled or just that the replacement bolts are good for one use?
 
Everything points to a leaking HG. Usually caused by overheating (which sloppy owners try to cure by pulling the thermostat), so you should service the entire cooling system and replace the stat.

Although many DIY-ers reuse the bolts, pros install new ones. With time, stress, and intermittent high temps, metal deteriorates. I re-torque after 50-100 hours but maybe that's just me.

I doubt the manuals cobbled up for greys can be as good as the factory ones, which themselves aren't perfect. But diesels are the same as gas engines except for fewer bits. After the engine is reassembled with whatever it needed, check the valve adjustments.
 
Thanks for the tip on checking the valve adjustment.
I should have the service manual sometime this coming week but plan to begin my tear down on Monday so I can get a jump on ordering parts.
 
Okay I have some pictures.
First is the cylinder head removed with gasket still attached:
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/P1010030.jpg"><s></e></IMG>

Next is the head with the gasket removed:
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/P1010031.jpg"><s>[img]</s>[URL url="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/P1010031.jpg"]<LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147 ... 010031.jpg">http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/P1010031.jpg</LINK_TEXT>[/URL]<e></s><LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photob...mjokjv/Yanmar Diesel/P1010035.jpg</LINK_TEXT><e>[/img]</e></IMG>

Cylinder #1 (front of engine):
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/P1010032.jpg"><s></e></IMG>

Cylinder #2:
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/P1010033.jpg"><s>[img]</s>[URL url="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/P1010033.jpg"]<LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147 ... 010033.jpg">http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/P1010033.jpg</LINK_TEXT>[/URL]<e></s><LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photob...mjokjv/Yanmar Diesel/P1010034.jpg</LINK_TEXT><e>[/img]</e></IMG>

Piston #1:
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/P1010028.jpg"><s>
URL]<e>
</e></IMG>

Pistons #2 &amp; 3:
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/P1010029.jpg"><s>
URL]<e>
</e></IMG>

What think ye?
 
Pictures can be deceiving so I'll be careful in my assessment. Do you initially see any evidence of valve leakage? If not, once you have cleaned the head good hold your valves open and inspect the sealing surfaces real good. Also take a good straight edge and check the head for warping. If there is <B><s></s>"any"<e></e></B> doubt at all take it to a head shop and let them check it. What do the cylinder liners look like? Any ridge at the top? Are they slick all the way down? Answers to these questions might help you decide your next move. At this point I'm hesitant to give advice on rings, etc. I'm fearful you may have blow by by just replacing the head gasket but I don't want to be the reason you spend time and money on something not needed. Let's see what the gurus have to say about it.
 
I had to stop working on the tractor once I got the head off. Tomorrow I'll begin looking closer at the cylinder walls and valves. I also need to drain the oil and look for issues there.
 
Some more pictures.

First the head gasket after some clean up:
#3
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/3HeadGasket.jpg"><s></e></IMG>

#2
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/2HeadGasket.jpg"><s>[img]</s>[URL url="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/2HeadGasket.jpg"]<LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147 ... Gasket.jpg">http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/2HeadGasket.jpg</LINK_TEXT>[/URL]<e></s><LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photob...kjv/Yanmar Diesel/1HeadGasket.jpg</LINK_TEXT><e>[/img]</e></IMG>

Head:
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/Head.jpg"><s></e></IMG>

Block:
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/Block.jpg"><s>[img]</s>[URL url="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/Block.jpg"]<LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147 ... /Block.jpg">http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/Block.jpg</LINK_TEXT>[/URL]<e></s><LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photob.../Yanmar Diesel/1CylinderWalls.jpg</LINK_TEXT><e>[/img]</e></IMG>
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/1CylinderWall.jpg"><s></e></IMG>

Cylinder #2
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/2CylinderWalls.jpg"><s>[img]</s>[URL url="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/2CylinderWalls.jpg"]<LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147 ... rWalls.jpg">http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/2CylinderWalls.jpg</LINK_TEXT>[/URL]<e></s><LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photob...v/Yanmar Diesel/2CylinderWall.jpg</LINK_TEXT><e>[/img]</e></IMG>

Cylinder #3
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/3CylinderWalls.jpg"><s>
URL]<e>
</e></IMG>
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/3CylinderWall.jpg"><s>
URL]<e>
</e></IMG>

My observations:
1. The ridge on the cylinder walls is enough to just catch your finger nail on.
2. All the cylinders will hold solvent for at least a minute (didn't wait any longer than that.)
3. Straight edge on the head shows no warping. (Have not check the block yet.)
4. Appears the head gasket let go between #2 and #3 cylinders with #3 being in the worst shape. Also signs of deterioration in other places.
5. #3 cylinder walls show some marks near the bottom.
6. No metal or particles found in drained oil.
7. Valves seated well enough to hold WD-40 squirted around edges.

My service manual won't arrive until late Thursday and I am not sure how to disconnect the drive linkage to gain access to the bottom of engine.
Please review the pictures and give me your thoughts. Thanks.
 
My first observation is I don't guess the F20 has cylinder sleeves. 2nd observations is last cylinder picture looks to have a little pitting down low but looks like the hone marks are still showing from last time it was apart. If you have inside micrometers or telescopic gauges you might check your cylinder bores at different places and see how they come out per manual specs. Not familiar with the F20 front wheel drive but if it is similar to this 2000 or many more your drive line is held in place by the litte steel balls. #34. <LINK_TEXT text="http://www.hoyetra...E&amp;Category_Code=20004WDINTERN</LINK_TEXT> Don't know where all the gurus went, where are you gurus?
 
Where are you getting the exploded views from? I cannot seem to find them for my tractor.
I removed the plate from the bottom of the engine but the oil pick up screen is definitely in the way and I don't see an easy way of removing it at present.
 
<QUOTE author="'68 Coronet R/T"><s>
</s>Where are you getting the exploded views from? I cannot seem to find them for my tractor.
I removed the plate from the bottom of the engine but the oil pick up screen is definitely in the way and I don't see an easy way of removing it at present.<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>
I don't think there are any for the F20. Got my curiosity up about the pick up screen. Got to come off some way. Guess you may have to wait on your book. <E>:(</E>
 
Yeah, waiting on the book and I had to order some new stones for my hone plus some more valve lapping compound. Plan to work on the head and clean up the radiator and other parts while I wait.
 
<QUOTE author="winston"><s>
</s> . . . Let's see what the gurus have to say about it.<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

Over a 130 views but not many comments, opinions or suggestions. Does this mean I am heading in the right direction or nobody knows for sure? <E>:?</E>
 
<QUOTE author="'68 Coronet R/T"><s>
</s><QUOTE author="winston"><s>
</s> . . . Let's see what the gurus have to say about it.<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>
Yep, never seen these guys that timid. I believe you have scared them off. They are watching me acting silly. <E>:D</E> Are you planning on pulling the pistons at this point or yet undecided? Since you have already pulled the crankcase cover I am supposing you may be planning on pulling a piston. A poor mans way of checking cylinders if you don't have micrometers is to first pull your old rings off and install them back in the cylinders and check end gap on them. You can check them at different depths giving you cylinder trueness. Then quite naturally you can check new rings the same way.
Click to expand...
 
Yes I plan to pull the pistons as soon as I can figure out how to get the oil pickup screen out of the way without pulling the front cover. I might be able to work around it but it doesn't look like any fun especially with my chunky forearms.
 
The Service Manual arrived and so far nothing it says matches what I am finding in my motor. <E>:(</E>

My block does not appear to have sleeves yet the manual says it does.

SM calls for a piston diameter of 2.949-2.950" measured at the skirt mine measure 3.223"

Right now I am wondering if they sent me the wrong manual. My tractor model is the F20D and I know the notes say they will send the "closest English version" but the notes also say the mechanical information will be the same. The Manual they sent is for the YM226 and YM220 models.

Motor # 3TNB82-UP if that helps clear anything up.
 
I would send it back.They are not the same engine.If the head bolts are one time use (torque to yield) you will have to know the torque procedure.
 
<QUOTE author="Barry"><s>
</s>I would send it back.They are not the same engine.If the head bolts are one time use (torque to yield) you will have to know the torque procedure.<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

You are right about that. Since the F series tractors are not covered by the manuals anyway I counted on getting the correct engine information to justify buying the manual. Now the manual is totally useless to me so sending it back is the only option.
I will have to verify the size of the rings, head gasket bore diameter, and rod bearing sizes before just ordering parts for the F20D engine. Hopefully the parts they list for the tractor are correctly matched to the 3TNB82-U motor and this won't be a problem.
 
There may be no workshop manuals for F series tractors but Hoye also supply parts manuals - I got one which is specific to the F215 model
I have found this to be very useful as, although it is in Japanese, it contains exploded diagrams of the all the assemblies and it can help to see how things go together.
Thanks for posting pictures as my tractor has much the same engine 3TNB82 RN so its good to see what it looks like inside (I just hope I never have to see the inside of mine!!)
 
I will post some more pictures as I proceed with the in frame rebuild. So far I am impressed with how well these engines hold up. My guestimate right now will put my rebuild parts costs at less than $500 and should give me a very strong and long lasting engine.

Does your parts manual show the location of the oil pressure sending unit?

I believe it should go just above the dip stick and to the rear of the oil filter (where the brass plug is in this picture):
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/OilFilter.jpg"><s>
URL]<e>
</e></IMG>
 
They sent me that same manual for my YM2002D which has the 3t80u-nap engine. Although many things are not the same I have found the manual to be very helpful. It is probably the closest one available for your F20.
 
It seems there should have been two manuals sent and the one covering the engine was not in the package so they are shipping it to me ASAP.
Spent the last few days cleaning, degreasing, going through the heads, and otherwise getting prepared to install the new parts when they arrive.
 
Can't believe it but my parts order still has not arrived. Called UPS today because they hadn't updated the shipping information since the day I ordered it on May 9th. Now it appears they "lost it" and won't do anything until Hoye requests an investigation. What a bummer. <E>:(</E>
 
Sorry about that. We are sending a replacement order out today &amp; you will have it Thursday (I'll email you a new tracking #). We'll work out the lost order's details with UPS. Problems like this do not happen very often but it is sure frustrating.
 
Aaron,
I realize this isn't anything Hoye Tractor has caused and for the record your <B><s></s><U><s></s>Customer Service has been excellent.<e></e></U><e></e></B> Thank you. <E>:D</E>
Jim
 
The parts arrived this afternoon. <E>:mrgreen:</E> Already installed the rings, pistons and bearings. Reassembled the head with new valve seals and reinstalled the head and rocker arm assembly. Plan to adjust the valves in the morning, finish reassembly and get it fired up. <E>:D</E>
 
Looking good. I'm taking notes, what was the secret to removing the oil pick up screen? Did you check cylinder tolerences or ring end gap or just put it together? <E>:)</E>
 
As for the oil pick up screen I ended up working around it. According to the manual it should have been threaded onto the end of the pickup tube so I thought it would just twist off but I couldn't get it to budge so I left it.
The cylinders with at the high end of the wear tolerances so when I checked the end gap it was about .003-005" too big. However to put things in perspective the gap on the old rings was near .100" <E>:shock:</E> The oil rings were so worn at the gap that they didn't protrude out of the ring groove and the piston was black from blow by.
I did a lot of cleaning. The heads on the exhaust side had about a good amount of build up under the valves and throughout the ports. I flushed the block water jackets, radiator, water pump, etc. with degreaser since there was so much oil in the coolant that the overflow container looked black.
Someone had removed the thermostat earlier so I had to remove the goo that was build up in the recess so the new thermostat would sit and seal properly.
Was very careful to torque the head gasket according to sequence in three steps - 20, 40 then 65 ft/lb and let it set for a couple of minutes went over each one again making sure they would hold 65 ft/lbs. then installed the push rods and rocker arms. Adjusted the valves to a tight .008" which is mid-range of adjustment tolerance.
Put everything back together, filled it with oil, coolant and fuel. Said a prayer and then hit the key and let it turn over a few times. Everything sounded good so I cranked it till it started about 15 seconds and it filled the garage with smoke till the rings seated - about 10 minutes - then the smoke started to subside. I am sure much of the smoke was from the oil I used in assembly since I tend to over lub rather than have it fire up dry.
Took it for about a 30 minute ride running it through the different rpm ranges, put it in 4wd and drove down the wash (6" of sand) dug a bucket full of sand then drove it back to the house. Revved it a few times and no smoke other than a black puff when I cranked the throttle open. Shut it off and started it a few times and it starts real easy compared to before. All in all I am very happy with the results.

My next project is to learn how to load the tires with calcium chloride solution. Any suggestions or instructions would be appreciated.
 
I have developed a problem that I think is fuel related.
When the tractor idles for a minute or so and then I accelerate I get clouds of white smoke. If I raise the rpms it goes away or becomes very hard to see. When I decelerate there is no smoke evident.
The tractor had set in a barn for 2-3 years before I got it and had half a tank of fuel in it. Since I had heard it running prior to the rebuild I assumed the fuel was still good and just added more to it. Could this older fuel be the problem or am I looking at testing the injectors?

Basics:
Coolant levels holding and no oil or bubbling present. 50/50 antifreeze mix looks light green.
Oil level dropped about 1/2 quart on first tank of fuel (tank is almost on empty now). Oil actually looks quite clear still.
No leaks evident around injectors, lines or pump.

By the way I readjusted the valve clearances after a couple hours of run time. All but one were in spec. and that one was close.
 
I appreciate you sharing your experience. Because your oil level went down a little I would think your grey smoke could come from that. I would give time for your rings to seat good before worrying about it.
 
Thanks.
I plan to put some fresh diesel in it today. Are there any good injector cleaners or other fuel additives for diesels that you would recommend?
 
<QUOTE author="'68 Coronet R/T"><s>
</s>Thanks.
I plan to put some fresh diesel in it today. Are there any good injector cleaners or other fuel additives for diesels that you would recommend?<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>
I personally use this. http://www.powerservice.com/dk/ Was recommended to me, not very expensive to use in these little tractors. I put the recommended dosage in on every fill up. It is available at Walmart.
 
<QUOTE author="jd123"><s>
</s><QUOTE><s>
</e></QUOTE>

not to hijack thread, but do you notice a difference using this stuff?<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>
To be honest, I don't know. I have used it for 3 years. I started using it right after I purchased the tractor. I doubt I have bought over 3 bottles in those 3 years.
Click to expand...
 
I was about to buy that same product today when the guy behind the counter told me that Seafoam is what his customers prefer. Said they rave about it so I bought that instead. Of course it is hard to tell with a lot of these products because you have to run a tank or so of fuel before they can be judged and other than "feeling" the difference in performance dismantling the injectors will be the only way to see if things are getting cleaned up.
 
Some more pictures:
Cleaned up the head surface with a stone and lapped the valves and seats
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/ValveSeatsLapped.jpg"><s></e></IMG>

Cylinders honed with 220 stones
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/CylinderHoned.jpg"><s>[img]</s>[URL url="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/CylinderHoned.jpg"]<LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147 ... rHoned.jpg">http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/CylinderHoned.jpg</LINK_TEXT>[/URL]<e></s><LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photob...anmar Diesel/PistonsInstalled.jpg</LINK_TEXT><e>[/img]</e></IMG>

Head installed:
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/HeadInstalled.jpg"><s></e></IMG>

Rocker assembly installed and valves adjusted:
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/RockersInstalled.jpg"><s>[img]</s>[URL url="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/RockersInstalled.jpg"]<LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147 ... talled.jpg">http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/RockersInstalled.jpg</LINK_TEXT>[/URL]<e></s><LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photob...jv/Yanmar Diesel/TractorRight.jpg</LINK_TEXT><e>[/img]</e></IMG>
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/TractorLeft.jpg"><s></e></IMG>
<IMG src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/TractorRear.jpg"><s>[img]</s>[URL url="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/TractorRear.jpg"]<LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147 ... orRear.jpg">http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/Yanmar%20Diesel/TractorRear.jpg</LINK_TEXT>[/URL]<e></s><LINK_TEXT text="http://i143.photob...kjv/Yanmar Diesel/TractorDash.jpg</LINK_TEXT><e>[/img]</e></IMG>
 
<QUOTE author="winston"><s>
</s>I appreciate you sharing your experience. Because your oil level went down a little I would think your grey smoke could come from that. I would give time for your rings to seat good before worrying about it.<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

Thought I would give an update. The engine has been smoking less and less each time I run it which hasn't been often for the last week or so. Worked it about an hour yesterday and I think the rings are now finally seating. A friend was telling me that it takes longer for the rings to seat on a diesel engine as compared to gasoline engines because of the lubricating properties of the fuel. Not sure if that is true but it sounded reasonable.
 
Hi:
Just a couple of quick things. In some applications the head bolts and sometimes others like rod cap bolts are malleable meaning they are intended to stretch when torqued such that they are one time use. Your service manual should tell you this. Also while a straight edge is OK if I'm going to skip a trip to the machine shop to have the head checked for true I use a piece of plate glass. You might also pressure check it while you have it in hand.
Photos tend to indicate a recent rebuild (hone marks still visible). I just did a 2500 hr Volvo that needed rings bot the rod bearings where as new and the cylinder liners were true. Took out the carbon ridge and honed the cylinders and that was about it.
Hope all goes well.
Terry
 
I now have 23 hours on the rebuilt motor. Still seeing some blue smoke from time to time, mainly after idling a couple of minutes but when at speed and working hardly any smoke at all.
The tractor starts and runs great, has plenty of power, doesn't get hot (unless the screen in front of the radiator clogs up), oil pressure is steady at 41-45 psi and it will run a long time on a tank of fuel. I was surprised it how little fuel these Yanmars use. Not so hard on the wallet with diesel fuel prices where they are.
 
it may use some oil and smoke for some time until things bed in. try to run in a higher gear and make the motor lug, dont let it idle for long periods either, if you have to up the revs. if you have a heavy trailer or something heavy pull it around for an hour every lttle while, it will help stop the bores glazing up till its run in.
 
Thanks for the tips.
I have been using it mainly to move dirt and gravel since its rebuild with some brushhog work as well.
There is a wash about 1/8 mile from the house that has some pretty steep sides and contains sand and gravel. I run down the road in the highest gear when empty down into the wash and then scoop up a bucket full as I can of the sand/gravel. Getting out of the wash was nearly impossible with the 2WD 2010 I had but easy with the 4WD F20D I own now. In fact I can back up the side of the wash now that I have the rear tires loaded. <E>:D</E>
The idea of pulling something heavy seems like a good one for the more I work it the better it seems to run and less it seems to smoke.
I appreciate all the help I received from this site. Thank you all very much.
 
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