Face pin wrench set

CHENG

New User
Hello, Anyone know of a good, face pin wrench set for old case backhoe cylinders?. Tractorman44 (YouTube) had a nice set for use with a 3/4” breaker bar. Or do the heavy duty adjustable ones hold up?
 
Pins are on the face of the gland nut, not the side. Usually 4, 90 deg apart. Tools usually are shaped like a Y, or C. Needs to be able to be “tapped” on, and probably used with a cheater. So forged steel, with hardened pins would be a must. Wimpy stamped steel pliers need not apply. It’s an old Case 580b backhoe that is going to need some love, just bought it.
 
Pins are on the face of the gland nut, not the side. Usually 4, 90 deg apart. Tools usually are shaped like a Y, or C. Needs to be able to be “tapped” on, and probably used with a cheater. So forged steel, with hardened pins would be a must. Wimpy stamped steel pliers need not apply. It’s an old Case 580b backhoe that is going to need some love, just bought it.

You need a wrench with pins for a gland nut that also has pins?
 
Where are you located? I decided to sell off a raft of tools that I will no longer use.If you look on Craigslist and FB in N.H.you will see a set I advertised yesterday.A tractor mechanic friend had these made and heat treated many years ago.I don't like shipping things,I want the buyer to put his hands on things I sell.I have them listed as hydraulic cylinder wrenches.
 

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Thanks folks. Yes I misspoke, the pin holes are on the face of the gland. Thanks for McMaster, I forgot about them.

Mr True, I’m in NH and will look on Craigs list. Any hint you can give me in finding the listing. Those look nice. I like the 3 pin set up, smart!.

Thanks to all, I’m sure there is going to be a lot more to learn to keep this thing alive.
 
I have a adj spanner wrench, I think mine is a OTC brand but you can find cheaper ones. And on the end you can add a 1/2 socket wrench for extra pull. I think I have 90 bucks for it 20 years ago.
 
For a brief couple of years I worked at a Parker facility. Some of their "integral" cylinders (with gland nuts instead of end blocks/tie rods) have round pin holes drilled, and some have milled slots completely across the face, making a typical pin spanner a bit of a challenge. That's why I asked.

Many of their "serious" cylinders used tie rods and deep-indexed end blocks to help hold things together when the steel started to balloon and a gland nut would simply become a projectile. One of the test stands there looked like a nuclear test facility and could make 50K PSI on demand, mostly for testing accumulators, fittings, and valve blocks, but some cylinders.
 
Thanks folks. Yes I misspoke, the pin holes are on the face of the gland. Thanks for McMaster, I forgot about them.

Mr True, I’m in NH and will look on Craigs list. Any hint you can give me in finding the listing. Those look nice. I like the 3 pin set up, smart!.

Thanks to all, I’m sure there is going to be a lot more to learn to keep this thing alive.

use the last three words in his post as the search words.
 
I have a 580c and I did my cylinders. I bought a cheap tool. I was very disappointed. Buy the best you can afford.
Mine were not easy to get apart. Good luck.
 
Gland nut wrench. I bought one off of Amazon a few years back, AMPRO brand but it appears they have dozens of different options:

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I tried it on a loader gland. When I put pressure on the wrench, one of the pins popped out and went sailing out the door into the mud.
 
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Is the adjustable above a good tool? I have never used one.

Can it take a beating, along with possibly some harsh language?
 
I have the OTC version of that,and has held up very well.It was all I had for years.My friend bought the most expensive one Amazon had to offer,(still half of what mine cost) but it is pretty much junk.The problem I found with that style,if I can describe it correctly is that it takes all your energy keeping it in place while using it.You can't use all your muscle power to push the bar,your arms are using most of their energy to hold it tight against the face and keeping it from popping out.Not sure if I described it right,but there is a lot of useless fumbling with that swivel hipped wrench.
 
Is the adjustable above a good tool? I have never used one.

Can it take a beating, along with possibly some harsh language?
As I said above, first time I tried to use it, the pin popped out and went sailing out into the mud. Much harsh language was used as I attempted to find the lost pin in the mud.

It required a trip to Harbor Freight for a magnetic sweeper, to find it. 10 seconds of rolling the sweeper around in the mud, and *click*, there it was.
 
Thanks to all who shared their recommendations and experience on this tool. I will now be asking some, probably stupid, questions about Case 580b schematics parts drawings and lists under whichever subcategory that is for that. thanks for the help.
 
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