Fair price for JD 2240?

[Stonecreek]

I have a JD 2240 (3 cyl diesel, 50 PTO horses) that I no longer need. It is cosmetically attractive with touched up paint, has a new seat, new rubber (98% +) all the way around, recent battery, recent muffler, live 540 PTO, 8F-2R transmission, 3-point cat I-II hitch. Tach doesn't work and maybe none of the idiot lights (don't really know), but I replaced the temp gauge because that's the only thing I really pay any attention to. And I removed the parking brake lever since the brake didn't work and it was only in the way. Located in Central Texas, and I'm equipped to deliver it anywhere within a couple of hundred miles. My question: What should I price it with a reasonable expectation of selling within a reasonable time. Not in any hurry, but I don't want to fiddle with selling a long time 'cause I ain't in that business.

All opinions appreciated. If you lowball, I'll count you as a potential buyer !

 

[John - NY]

Try www.external_link and search under Tractors - 40 to 99 hp. There are a lot of John Deeres, including (20) JD2240s. That should give you an idea.
Untitled URL Link

 

[5020s rock]

hi--yes,look at tractorhouse then deduct 30%
for "real world value". dont get me wrong tractorhouse is great but the prices are too high
and i bought a tractor last week and its still on there and call on many that have been sold a long time ago, like 6 months. my 2 cents

 

[Tx Jim]

Stonecreek
I've had success listing things on Craig's list. I sold a not so pretty,well used 2440 for $5500. I will say $5000-7000 for your 2240. Check Machineryfinder or tractor house for prices.

 

[buickanddeere]

Quote"

Tach doesn't work and maybe none of the idiot lights (don't really know)

I removed the parking brake lever since the brake didn't work and it was only in the way

"Unquote

As a potential purchaser. And given that type of care and service background. I would keep moving and look for another tractor.There are likely more shortcuts and skipped service concerns.
Has the coolant even been changed or the inhibitors tested?

 

[Stonecreek]

"Has the coolant even been changed or the inhibitors tested?"

Isn't that a kind of foolish question for a tractor that is somewhere between 28 and 34 years old? If my 45+ years of experience with John Deeres is anything like typical, then I'd say that the radiator hose has busted at least three times and the radiator itself has been patched or replaced at least twice during the last 30 years, each occasion requiring a brand new refill of ethylene glycol. Now, I've only had the tractor for a couple or three years, but one of my first maintenance operations was to drain, flush, and refill the radiator. So, I can firmly say that the coolant has been "changed". Having used name-brand anti-freeze, I have assumed the "inhibitors" to be not in need of "testing".

Likewise, the parking brake on any 30 year-old tractor is either unlikely to work or in need of repair. Most tractors of this age didn't even come with a parking brake -- you just left them in gear if parked on an unlevel surface. When I bought the tractor, even before inspecting it, I did not expect the parking brake to work. Now that the handle is gone, most buyers wouldn't even know that it was originally equipped with one.

So, back to my original question, which was not what a "tractor snob" would think of my 30 year-old utility tractor, but what would a buyer in the market for this class of machine be willing to pay?

 

[buickanddeere]

My 1640 of the same era had the originonal rad hoses until last spring. When replacing them all when installing the water pump. None were particularly rotten. Certainly none leaked.

Parking brake on Dad's 2355 works fine. Everbody knows enough to release the brake before driving off. And since anything broken or worn gets repaired. Instead of removed,ignored or bypassed. The parking brake warning light and horn still work.
Instruments go through a self check when the switch is turned on to verify operation.
I would worry about the non functional oil pressure light more than temp. A too warm engine will smell hot and warn the operator. A loss of oil pressure give no warning until too late.
I would pass on a tractor where the owner operator doesn't service and maintain it.

 

[Stonecreek]

Fine. I think your expectations of 30 year-old tractors are a little unrealistic. Thus I take it that your price estimate is zero?

 

[CLW]

CAT FIGHT, CAT FIGHT, CAT FIGHT

 

[buickanddeere]

Because it's 28-34 years old it's ok for parts be missing or broken?
We may as well "let things go" with 30 year old bridges,building elevators,public buildings,rail lines and water/gas power utility equipment.
Start/stopping the engine everytime the tractor is parked on a slope. To open/close a gate, hook onto a wagon etc. This adds to alternator,starter and battery wear.
Price would depend on repair costs required to restore operation of the dash & parking brake.
Plus analysis of the trans/hydraulic fluid in
case a cheaper non-wet clutch lube has been added and it ruining the wheel brakes, pto brake,pto clutch or trans High/Low shift.
Not saying your tractor doesn't represent typical or even better than average condition of 28-34 yr old used tractor.
Just don't expect top price if the purchaser is sharp eyed. Or don't be surprised if somebody looks at the tractor then looses interest.

 

[Stonecreek]

I know of no one who would believe it economically advantageous to spend several hundred dollars to mount a new tach on a 30 year-old 50-horse utility tractor (similar tractors just a few years older didn't even have a tach), nor do I know of anyone who would spend additional hundreds of dollars fixing a parking brake on said tractor.

If the same 50 hp tractor were 25 years newer and $25,000 more expensive, then yes, the kinds of issues you raise are certainly valid.

The point is, I described EXACTLY the condition of the tractor (and since it goes without saying, I did not specifying that it starts instantly, runs smoothly with ample power, and the trasmission, hydraulics, power lift, and PTO all function flawlessly). Its shortcomings in having no tach or parking brake are exactly that -- shortcomings. All used tractors have shortcomings. My question was what is a fair price. You keep answering that YOU would not consider buying it. Fine. You know what? I DID buy it, and it was in worse shape when I bought it than it is now. I bought it because it suited my needs . . . and it has served me well. I didn't and still don't need a tach for the work I do with it. I didn't and still don't need a parking brake. Oh, did I forget to mention it has no lights? I can't remember when, in 45 years of driving tractors, that I've driven a tractor that had working lights. I don't run a shredder in the dark. Don't disc my little oat patch in the dark, either. Ain't gonna start, lights or no lights. Someone who does need those items needs to look for a newer (and much more expensive) tractor. The other 90% of us would still like some guidance on . . .

WHAT IS A FAIR PRICE?

 

[buickanddeere]

So when the starter, battery or alternator quit. You are going to park it on a hill and coast start it? Rather than repair anything?

I would'nt pay more than $2000 knowing what requires repairs and considering what other failures maybe found.

 

[Stonecreek]

Thanks for the price estimate. I suspect that most people on this board would take the "over" on an over-under wager. Of course if you're right, you could really clean up by taking the "under" as you'd be all by yourself.

 

[buickanddeere]

By the time I bought all the parts and did the work for free. I would be in the same price as a complete running and well cared for 2240. No bargain there.
I wonder why some people take such prid ein being "cheap" and "making do".
No lights? How about road and highway travel? Or parking in a dark shed?