Farm boss chainsaw problem

[dzc3]

I have a Stihl Farmboss chainsaw. From the time it was new the chain gets HOT and smokes I have turned the oil control setting from the Max to Min I have used only Stihl Bar oil there is all kinds of oil on the chain. I have bought a new bar and chain thinking the original was bent. No change even with the new bar right out of the box. I keep my chain sharp so that is not it. Stihl oil works fine in my other saws anyone have any ideas.

 

[timcasbolt]

Maybe you're running the chain too tight?

 

[Dean]

Like Tim suggests, chain too tight?

Alternatively, verify that the oil holes in the bar are not clogged.

I bought a new 290 last fall and it stopped oiling almost immediately. I had cut a large cedar tree flush with the ground and the pitch and dirt had clogged the oil holes. All OK after cleaning the oil holes and bar.

Dean

 

[MarkB_MI]

>I have turned the oil control setting from the Max to Min

Did you perhaps mean "from Min to Max"?

If it's getting hot, it's not getting enough oil. When you rev the saw up over piece of wood, you should see a little bit of oil spatter on the wood. If not, shut it down and find the problem.

 

[Ivan in Mich]

I have 3 farm boss saws and on the 2 smaller ones I can run the chain tight and it doesn't smoke but boggs the motor. On my 290 if I run the chain to tight it smokes.I usually leave about 1/8 inch of slack in them and have no problems.

 

[guido]

Hello dcz3

MarkB_MI is right!. When you first rev up the saw oil should hit the wood like he said. You need to turn the oil to the max. Oil is cheaper then the chain and the guide bar. Also the chain should be just tight enough that you can pull it 1/2 way out of the guide bar. Check the oil output with the bar off, to make sure that is not the problem,

Guido.

 

[GordoSD]

Take it to a dealer or an expert and have them show you how to adjust the tension and the oil.

 

[D beatty]

The new saws that have been made in the last maybe 10 years don't put the oil out like the older saws and blame that on EPA. I bought a MS-250 about 8 years ago and it would turn bar blue and was getting oil and it went back to dealer. The dealer said not a thing wrong with it but new saws don't use as musch oil as old saws ( new EPA standards). I found a new high out put oil pump for a o25 and put it in the MS-250 saw and have had no problems with bar getting hot.

 

[MarkB_MI]

D Beatty, I challenge you to find any EPA regulations on the volume of bar oil chainsaws are allowed to use. It may well be true that newer saws deliver less oil to the bar, but I'm unaware of any state or federal standard on bar oil.

 

[Billy NY]

One other thing, look at the chain, specifically at the drivers that mate to the sprocket, do you have any burrs, deformities ? I've had that happen, easy to fix but deceiving if you are not looking for it. It will bind if there are any. You can run the chain completely around the bar with it off and see if it runs smooth, then ID the tight spot.

On suggestion and good rule to follow is thoroughly cleaning around the filler cap before opening and refilling with oil, you don't want wood chips, dirt or what have you in there.

Usually they sling oil off the bar onto where its pointed, Stihl, Husquvarna and similar bar oils of quality seem to cling and not sling off so much, other brands I have used will fling right off, same with motor oil, maybe you can try something thinner after doing what was suggested, cleaning the bar groove, oil passages, etc. see if oil is getting through.

I run mine on max, just makes sense to do so, you're not saving anything with the minimum setting given what the bar oil is supposed to do. I like the better oils because it performs, and mostly because it does not make a mess. A friend got a 455 rancher, just for helping me with the clearing and cutting around the place, keeping paths open, blow down, storm damage, trimming around hunting stands etc. and helping his dad with firewood on occasion. Perfect saw for that kind of use. The first oil he used in it was that green bottle, you get at the auto parts place or similar, saw leaked oil something terrible, it was thinner and it did fling off. I went and got a jug of Husqvarna bar oil, no more leaking, and it hardly slings off, can't imagine what used drain oil would do in one of these, I was shocked it stopped leaking, figured it had a defect.

 

[JBDyer]

Have you been greasing the bar? There should be a small hole at the end of the bar that takes grease, you can buy a small grease gun with a pointed tip specifically for this purpose.

 

[Dean]

Sadly, you can blame many, many, many problems that once did not exist upon the EPA, and other federal agencies.

Dean

 

[JerryMT]

Try loosening the chain. The oil not only reduces friction but cools the bar and the chain. You have to have both adjusted properly.

 

[PJH]

Greasing the bar?

You know, when I was a teenager, the old sprocket nose bars had a little grease gun to lube the tip. I've asked my Stihl dealer about that several times, and he laughs at me. I've cut LOTS of wood with two saws with original Stihl sprocket nose bars, and have never once "greased" the sprocket on either bar. There's normal wear on the bars, but I think they'll last the rest of my life, and I hope that's a looong time.

I can't answer the original poster's question.

 

[Paul in MN]

Does it smoke when cutting wood, or does it smoke even before it gets into the wood? Don't know where you are at and what species of wood you are cutting, but one of the strange things I found last winter is how damaging frozen logs are on the chain. Almost instant dull, and then a lot of smoke as I try to get through even the first cut with a fresh chain. If you have tried the other things suggested by earlier responders, then you might give this consideration. This winter has been exceptionally cold, so this may be the first time you have had this experience.

Just another guess...

Paul in MN

 

[Dean]

The private sector reacts not only to the Byzantine plethora of laws, regulations, executive orders, etc., but also to the threat, direct or perceived, of such.

Sadly, the scope of government is continually expanding. There is little or nothing that is beyond the reach of state and federal government (especially federal) despite the dismal record of such burdensome micro management.

Wake up.

Dean

 

[Dean]

I recently bought a new MS251, the replacement for the MS250.

The 251 has electronic fuel management (spare me!) while the 250 does not. The 251 is obviously a cost reduced version of the 250, yet costs more due, no doubt, to the electronic fuel management, etc. Did I mention that it is also more difficult for one to work on?

For one who takes exceptional care of ones equipment and tends to keep things for decades, the jury is still out regarding the reliability of the electronic fuel management and the cost and availability of replacement parts 15 or 20 years from now.

I would gladly go back to the days of the 20:1 Homelites, modernized with modern weight reducing materials and lubricants. Indeed, I still have one along with a six pack of 16:1 oil. Though in good serviceable condition, I stopped using it due to the unavailability of service parts, and now keep it only for the tough jobs for which my 4 late model saws are not well suited.

Dean

 

[plow hand]

Are you giving it a dry run meaning revving it up without cutting wood to see if it is getting oil? aim it towards a log or something..

 

[MarkB_MI]

Manufacturers also react to market demand. If Stihl thought their customers want a chainsaw that pukes out a gallon of bar oil an hour, they would certainly produce one.

 

[D beatty]

I have 4 Stihl saws and there is no oil adjustment ( factory preset) also a Husky 50 Special with no adjustment. I do have an Echo top handel saw ( best oiler system of any of my saws) that has an adjustable pump which comes in handy when cutting up a dead tree.

 

[IH2444]

Umm could the chain be dull?
Or improperly sharpened?

 

[Donald Lehman]

You should be using about one tank of bar oil per one tank of fuel. Most saws work fine on about 3/4 to 7/8 of a tank of bar oil to a tank of fuel. Are you sure you have the proper gauge thickness chain for the bar? I seen guys trying to run 58 gauge chains on 50 gauge bars and if the bar was worn the 58 gauge cahin would run in the bar but run hot enough to turn the bar blue. Just a possibiltiy you might want to check.

 

[D beatty]

I read you post again and take it this is a fairly new saw. If it is under warranty I would take it back to dealer and have it checked out.The new Stihl saws come from factory with oil pump set at Max. If it is a newer saws they don't put out as much oil on bar as did the older saws.

 

[Dean]

Bingo.

I've studied marketing, as well as engineering, business, law, history, CS, etc., etc., etc.

Who said anything about puking out a gallon of bar oil per hour?

Perspective will enable you to see the big picture.

Dean

 

[dzc3]

I have run chainsaws for 35 years, chain is not too tight, its not dull, its not too loose and when I point the tip of the bar towards the end of a log and rev the engine it "prints" lots of oil. So it is getting oil. Drivers look great. Clutch is not dragging I am stumped on this

 

[IH2444]

does the chain fit properly in the groove in the bar?

I would try a new chain.

Ohh I see you already did a bar and chain.

Does it cut ok just smoke?

 

[Bret4207]

(quoted from post at 11:13:50 03/15/14) Greasing the bar?

You know, when I was a teenager, the old sprocket nose bars had a little grease gun to lube the tip. I've asked my Stihl dealer about that several times, and he laughs at me. I've cut LOTS of wood with two saws with original Stihl sprocket nose bars, and have never once "greased" the sprocket on either bar. There's normal wear on the bars, but I think they'll last the rest of my life, and I hope that's a looong time.

I can't answer the original poster's question.

I replace tips for guys that don't grease the roller nose type bars all the time. I grease mine and it's very rare for me to have a tip fail before the bar is completely worn out. I have one Sachs that has a bar that's 20 years old and the tip has never been changed. Greasing never hurts.

 

[Bret4207]

The guys have hit all the likely issues- chain too tight, wrong gauge chain for bar, plugged bar oil hole. The only things I haven't seen mentioned are checking to make sure your bar oil holes are clear of paint, that the bar shims ore on right and not blocking the holes, that the pump is in fact working, that you may be trying to use summer weight bar oil in weather too cold for the pump to move the oil.

Just FYI- every few cords of wood it's a good idea to take the bar and chain off and clean the bar groove. An old hack saw blade, the non toothed part, ground to a hook works good. Clean the oil hole too. If you rev the saw up and aren't getting an oil mist off the tip- something is wrong.

 

[IH2444]

does it cut ok?
Chain on backwards?

 

[Bryan inIowa]

I had a brand new RedMax doing this same thing . had wrong drive sprocket .Drive links would get wide on bottom , bind up in bar . Right sprocket , new bar and chain , works perfect now

 

[IH2444]

(quoted from post at 13:35:30 03/17/14) I had a brand new RedMax doing this same thing . had wrong drive sprocket .Drive links would get wide on bottom , bind up in bar . Right sprocket , new bar and chain , works perfect now

yeah has to be something like that. Saw was put together wonky.
Of course I have seen chains put on backwards too.

 

[D beatty]

Dad had an electric chainsaw ( new)that would use bar oil as fast as you put it in. He took it back to dealer. They called him to come pick it up.He went into shop and they told it was fixed and they tried it out and it worked great. Dad looked at and said to them how in the hell could you have cut wood with chain on backwards. He got his money back and bought a new electric chainsaw from another dealer.

 

[IH2444]

I wonder what the problem was on this?

 

[D beatty]

We never found out because Dad never took it out of their shop . He told the dealer he didn't want the dam saw because all they did was clean it and never tested it to see if it worked. They told him it cut great until he drawed their attention to the chain being on backwards. After that they gave him his money back. Have never bought anything from them since.

 

[IH2444]

Reminds me.
I need to order a new sprocket for my little old Poulan.

Actually I was wondering about the Farm Boss problem of this thread.

 

[D beatty]

Have you had good luck with your poulan ? I had one years ago about the size of a Stihl MS-170 which replaced the Poulan . I had it the shop more than I used it.Had very few days that I could cut all afternoon with out working on it. Today my Stihls do the heavy sawing and an Echo top handle saw doe's every thing 8" on down and small branchs.

 

[IH2444]

(quoted from post at 17:45:05 03/18/14) Have you had good luck with your poulan ? I had one years ago about the size of a Stihl MS-170 which replaced the Poulan . I had it the shop more than I used it.Had very few days that I could cut all afternoon with out working on it. Today my Stihls do the heavy sawing and an Echo top handle saw doe's every thing 8" on down and small branchs.

I have a 16" poulan pro which has served me well for about 13 years. It is the older model poulan pro.

Up till a couple of years ago I cut about 20 stacked pickup loads of firewood per winter with it. It has required some maintenance a couple bars this will be my 3rd sprocket I think and rebuild the carb once. Ohh and replace the oil pump once. Cuts well and will idle till it runs out of gas.
Not sure I would buy a poulan today though. FIL gave me a new 18 poulan pro a few years ago. Thing was junk could not keep it running. HMM come to think of it I will bet the sprocket off of it will fit my good saw...

 

[Bret4207]

(quoted from post at 14:45:05 03/18/14) Have you had good luck with your poulan ? I had one years ago about the size of a Stihl MS-170 which replaced the Poulan . I had it the shop more than I used it.Had very few days that I could cut all afternoon with out working on it. Today my Stihls do the heavy sawing and an Echo top handle saw doe's every thing 8" on down and small branchs.

Some of the older Poulans were fine saws. Models like the Farm Pro 375 or the 3700. The ones made int he last 20 years or so are something else altogether. And don't forget that some of the low end Huskies and Jreds are rebadged Poulans. If it has a primer bulb sticking out the side, that's not a "real" Husky. Personally, I wouldn't touch one of those if I had to put my own money down. Stihl has some "consumer" grade saws too.

Speaking of Echo, I'm beginning to think Echo is the "sleeper" brand out there. Darn good saws for the price.

 

[IH2444]

the only thing wrong with Echo is that I do not have one :roll:

 

[Bret4207]

(quoted from post at 05:12:36 03/19/14)
the only thing wrong with Echo is that I do not have one :roll:

That little problem could be remedied with the application of a little currency! :lol:

 

[IH2444]

(quoted from post at 13:45:52 03/19/14)

(quoted from post at 05:12:36 03/19/14)
the only thing wrong with Echo is that I do not have one :roll:

That little problem could be remedied with the application of a little currency! :lol:

Yeah and there is the rub. Lets see $500 or so for an echo or keep the old poulan going for virtually nothing since people seem to give me ones for parts.
Other things I would rather spend the money on. In a couple of years I will be paying for all my chainsaw work anyway. Getting a bit old for much of that.

 

[Bret4207]

(quoted from post at 11:22:32 03/19/14)

(quoted from post at 13:45:52 03/19/14)

(quoted from post at 05:12:36 03/19/14)
the only thing wrong with Echo is that I do not have one :roll:

That little problem could be remedied with the application of a little currency! :lol:

Yeah and there is the rub. Lets see $500 or so for an echo or keep the old poulan going for virtually nothing since people seem to give me ones for parts.
Other things I would rather spend the money on. In a couple of years I will be paying for all my chainsaw work anyway. Getting a bit old for much of that.

I get it. My newest saw is from 1993 IIRC!