Farmall 100 Shifting Problem

[Johnnykick]

My Farmall 100 will shift and back into reverse, but can get the shift lever into any other gears. Thoughts?

 

[WellWorn]

You'll need to pull the top cover. There are a few things that can happen. One of them is that the shift "blade" - the part that fits into the shift rails, can get worn enough to slip between them during a shift, say leaving it in reverse when you try to go to second. Another is that there may be a problem with the detent ball/spring on the reverse rail, or there may be rust on a sliding shaft, or...

The only way to decipher it is to take it apart when it fails, and look carefully at all the moving parts to see what should be moving and isn't, and why.

Be very thankful that your 100 is a LOT easier to get into than many other tractor transmissions. Let us know what you find.

HTH
WellWorn

 

[gene bender]

Mite be easier to reove the pin that holds the shifter then you can see down and line up the slots'

 

[WellWorn]

Gene, pulling the tower pin may or may not reveal the full problem(s), even if he's able to re-align the neutral slots, providing that the shifter got out of them. Once the tower pin is driven out and the shifter lifted, the 'blade' is out of them anyway, so is "blade out" a cause, or an effect?

IMHO, the best way to see a transmission problem is to open it up. Check to see if the blade is in the correct slot or not. While you're in there is the oil milky? Rusty? Drain it. Make sure there isn't anything that shouldn't be in the bottom of the case, like metal shavings, or bits of bearings, or a gear tooth. Take a pry bar and attempt to lift the upper and also lower shaft in the tranny as a crude test of the bearings. There should be no perceptible up or down (or side to side) movement. If there is, don't put off replacing bearings (and seals, and brakes, and probably clutch, and ....) You may still have to drive out the tower pin to weld up and re-grind the shift blade and replace the tower pivot pins (which will be equally shot), but you'll at least have checked for, and potentially headed off a host of other problems.

The shift blade should be about 1/4" x 3/4" and slightly arced front and back, sorta like (_)
I'm sure someone here has posted a picture of what a good one looks like. If not, I have a tranny apart at the moment, and can possibly post a pic tomorrow.

 

[Johnnykick]

A pic would be helpful. Thanks.

 

[Johnnykick]

(quoted from post at 06:54:43 02/23/17) A pic would be helpful. Thanks.

Didn't expect this. When I opened the transmission, there was no oil. (I have not been able to get the fill plug out to check.) I was able to drain about 1 quart of rust water from the transmission. I don't know how long or if any time was spent driving this thing w/o oil, but nothing appears broken. However, as you can see from the pics, a ton of rust. I believe the forks are frozen. I suspect the bearings are shot too. I do have a wash tank to clean the shifter. What do I do about the transmission. Holy Cow!

 

[Johnnykick]

Trans photo.

 

[Janicholson]

My suggestion is to disassemble it to the bones. The bearings will be pitted and need to be replaced. The gears will need to be
wire brushed to remove the rust and check for pits and failed splines. It looks repairable but will take effort. It must have
been filled with water most of its idle time. Jim

 

[gene bender]

Yes you have a point but removing the ever and looking in you could see the rust and the rails just probably wouldnt move either

 

[Johnnykick]

I poured some diesel into the transmission and discovered 2 leaks. Here's a video. After I made the video, I noticed the main leak is not from the gasket (maybe it's also leaking a bit) but from a hole. You can see it if you look close. I put my finger in the hole and stopped it. The hole is the diameter of my index finger and is about 3/4 " deep. It's smooth so I don't know if it was intentionally made. There is not one on the other side. In any event, I'll examine it closer tonight with a light.

https://youtu.be/5gepF-soQxg

 

[WellWorn]

The hole is not actually the transmission, but outside of it. It's a drain to let any oil leaking from the axle shaft seals to get out of the axle tubes before getting to the brakes, though it's possible that the bearing retainers are cracked and leaking. It looks like the gears and shafts are mostly surface can be cleaned up enough, this tranny needs about $500 in bearings and seals.

Unless this tractor has some sentimental value, or you got it for less than scrap price and are willing to part it out, you can save yourself a lot of time, money and misery by finding some 'greater fool' to unload it on. Or if you have no hope of ever getting your money out of it and more ambition than sense, by all means, fix it. And if you're ever in my neighborhood, stop by and we can commiserate over a few brown bottle beverages. I seem to have made a career of fixing things that aren't worth fixing.

You're welcome.

 

[Johnnykick]

I picked it up for $350 that included a belly mower. I have no practical use use for it...thought I would make it a parade tractor. I did discover that this is an Industrial model, serial # 66 out of a total 135....making it somewhat unique. Don't know if that would increase the sales value or not. The engine seems solid. I'll pull the wheels off and see what I'm dealing with.

 

[Dennis K (WA)]

I would say it's a keeper. If you are able to do your own work, it may not turn out to be that bad.
good luck and have fun with it.
Dennis

 

[Johnnykick]

Looking at the diagram in the pic from the repair manual...please identify the parts that need to be replaced. Thanks.

 

[WellWorn]

Johnny, what you need is the TC-39 parts book. I can tell you that the #8 seals are part #358813R91; the inner bearings are ST202, and if you replace bearings, you may need to adjust the shim set for differential pre-load and pinion engagement, the differential spider bearings are probably shot, etc... but only you can determine what it will need in total, and you won't figure that out until you get it fully apart.

At least you got a $400 mower for 350, and a free tractor along with the deal.

 

[Johnnykick]

Is this what I need to get?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/361695130628?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

 

[Janicholson]

They are on line! Jim
easy poke here

both

 

[Johnnykick]

Thanks!