Farmall 130 grader blade

[Massey_165]

Just installed a grader blade on my Farmall 130, when fully up I only have about an inch of clearance, is there a way to adjust the lift arm so I can raise the blade higher?

 

[DaveBN]

You might have those arms on the liftall orientated wrong. It should lift 8 inches or so.
Dave.

 

[used red MN]

Not familiar with that set up. Are there brackets or supports holding the shaft circled in red in position. If there are I can’t see them. If that pushes down or back lift motion will be lost.

 

[used red MN]

Oops double post

 

[DoubleO7]

And this YT thread.....................from 2011...................

60 front blade questions

seems like the part #1 in the diagram, #650312R1, Arm, Hydraulic Extension, would come precariously close to a foot on the clutch pedal when the rockshaft rolled backwards to lift the blade. Why is it so long toward the operator ?

forums.yesterdaystractors.com

 

[Fritz Maurer]

That top link looks like it needs to be about 4" shorter. Your rockshaft is nearly at the end of its rearward stroke. The clevis at the front is plenty long, drill the hole back an appropriate amount, and cut off the excess.

 

[Massey_165]

You might have those arms on the liftall orientated wrong. It should lift 8 inches or so.
Dave.

After looking at pictures I think I have the wrong attachment on the front from the blade to the top arms, it should be shorter and have a spring.

 

[Massey_165]

You might have those arms on the liftall orientated wrong. It should lift 8 inches or so.
Dave.

After looking at pictures I think I have the wrong attachment on the front from the blade to the top arms, it should be shorter and have a spring.

 

[Massey_165]

Not familiar with that set up. Are there brackets or supports holding the shaft circled in red in position. If there are I can’t see them. If that pushes down or back lift motion will be lost. View attachment 90203

I think I am missing that bar and After looking at pictures I think I have the wrong attachment on the front from the blade to the top arms, it should be shorter and have a spring

 

[Massey_165]

That top link looks like it needs to be about 4" shorter. Your rockshaft is nearly at the end of its rearward stroke. The clevis at the front is plenty long, drill the hole back an appropriate amount, and cut off the excess.

After looking at pictures I think I have the wrong attachment on the front from the blade to the top arms, it should be shorter and have a spring

 

[Weldon K]

Just installed a grader blade on my Farmall 130, when fully up I only have about an inch of clearance, is there a way to adjust the lift arm so I can raise the blade higher?
View attachment 90185View attachment 90186

You have it mounted wrong . First picture below shows close up of where you have the long pivot rod mounted through those two "ears" at the rear of the housing (with the four bolts mounted at an angle). The pivot bolt goes through the housing as shown in second picture . Those two square pieces of steel ( blocks) that you have hanging on the rod are to be mounted inside of the housing, one on each side , just inside the edge of the housing with the four bolts. There may have been a piece of pipe that went inside the housing that spaced the two square blocks at the correct distance apart inside the housing. Our tractor and blade are long gone so I can't check for sure about a pipe inside the housing. Watch this video

We had one of those blades mounted on a Super A . It was used daily for 35 years to scrape manure in a free stall dairy barn. Wore out and rebuilt many parts on it several times. Hope this helps.

 

[Weldon K]

I think I am missing that bar and After looking at pictures I think I have the wrong attachment on the front from the blade to the top arms, it should be shorter and have a spring

Earlier made blades had the rigid no spring A frame on the front . later ones had the spring loaded frame. Either will work.

 

[Weldon K]

You have it mounted wrong . First picture below shows close up of where you have the long pivot rod mounted through those two "ears" at the rear of the housing (with the four bolts mounted at an angle). The pivot bolt goes through the housing as shown in second picture . Those two square pieces of steel ( blocks) that you have hanging on the rod are to be mounted inside of the housing, one on each side , just inside the edge of the housing with the four bolts. There may have been a piece of pipe that went inside the housing that spaced the two square blocks at the correct distance apart inside the housing. Our tractor and blade are long gone so I can't check for sure about a pipe inside the housing. Watch this video

We had one of those blades mounted on a Super A . It was used daily for 35 years to scrape manure in a free stall dairy barn. Wore out and rebuilt many parts on it several times. Hope this helps.

Here is another video that I found. The maker of video points out that he first had the pivot rod mounted wrong through the "ears" on the housing.

 

[Massey_165]

Earlier made blades had the rigid no spring A frame on the front . later ones had the spring loaded frame. Either will work.

Ok good!

You have it mounted wrong . First picture below shows close up of where you have the long pivot rod mounted through those two "ears" at the rear of the housing (with the four bolts mounted at an angle). The pivot bolt goes through the housing as shown in second picture . Those two square pieces of steel ( blocks) that you have hanging on the rod are to be mounted inside of the housing, one on each side , just inside the edge of the housing with the four bolts. There may have been a piece of pipe that went inside the housing that spaced the two square blocks at the correct distance apart inside the housing. Our tractor and blade are long gone so I can't check for sure about a pipe inside the housing. Watch this video

We had one of those blades mounted on a Super A . It was used daily for 35 years to scrape manure in a free stall dairy barn. Wore out and rebuilt many parts on it several times. Hope this helps.

I see it now! I’ll definitely change tomorrow, Thank you for the info!

 

[Janicholson]

You might have those arms on the liftall orientated wrong. It should lift 8 inches or so.
Dave.

As pointed out below, the upper pivot point for the lifting assembly must go through the tractor casting to hold the whole assembly up!
the Y links going to the bell housing (torque tube) provide rearward control only if the pivot is in that casting. Once there it may all work! Jim