Farmall 200 Engine sleeves not fitting

Ive never worked with a wet sleeve engine before-but it seems simple enough.
Got a kit with 3 1/4 overbore and stepped head pistons.
The sleeves get to the end of the taper on the bottom casting (without the o ring installed) and they stop hard. Like they are too big by just a little bit
The old ones slide right in.
The kit I got is for a C123 354898 R1 casting
i realized after trying it that I have a R3 casting.


Has someone run into this before? Im thinking I got the wrong kit or it got put in the box wrong

Any help or advice is appreciated. Ill try to post back when I do get it figured out

cvphoto151516.jpg


cvphoto151517.jpg
 
Telescoping gauge for the bore with ball ends to check the block and a regular mic for the sleeve and the measure the gauge for the block. then the old sleeve check in a few places around the sleeve for roundness might just be out of round slightly since most things come from almost right.
 
The lower bore for a C-123 is 3-7/16. For a C-135 is is 3-15/32. You probably have a new sleeve for a C-135.

R1 vs. R3 casting shouldn't matter.
 
that R1 and R3 is your clue. might need to haul the block into a machine shop for fitting. the ordinary guy just dont have them specialty tools and it should be pretty obvious the block needs to be bord. or start checking for other sleeves.
 
Working within one basic part, the initial version would be R1. If the part is revised but is still BACKWARD COMAPIBLE to the earlier version, the revision number after the R gets bumped to 2. Another backward compatible change gets bumped to R3 etc. If the change is not backward compatible, it gets a whole new part number. Changing the size of the bottom bore is unlikely to have been considered compatible, as the same sleeves wouldn't fit. For example, the Farmall C used block 251069R1. The Super C block with a larger lower bore was 354898R1. One of the compatible changes to that part may have been addition of the dip stick.
 
That makes sense-

Because my R3 has a dipstick, but I have the original
book that came with the tractor, and it says there is 2
petcocks to check oil-probably the R1 or R2 of the same
series
 
Got a caliper-its just a brake caliper but its what I could get.
Called a shop-they told me the spec is supposed to be 3.437, and the new sleeves measure 3.443
Just a little over. But enough that they do not fit
 
Ok so I measured and came up with 3.443. Not quite as
big as the 135 block but also larger than the 3.437 spec
of the 123

I have a local shop here I can get them turned down to
3.437 for the lower end.

Do you think that will work? That there would be no other
differences on the sleeve if it is a 135 piece
 
With those measuremets, you have to think they just weren't made to spec. There were also some slight differences in the overall length of the cylinders across this family of engines. I suggest you check your new ones against the old. If there is any difference, verify that the new ones won't have a problem bcause of the length. It wouldn't hurt to do a similar check of the flange diameter and width, but I think that part was the same on all of them.
 
They are identical in length and every other
measurement. Just a slight bit different on the bottom
flange. I think Ill give it a try. Thanks for the info
 
You could also set the new sleeve upside down in the counter bore just for a looks see. But if things are measured and matching top should be good.
 
yOU CANT PUT THE 3 1/4 SLEEVES in a C block unless its a very late one. Measure the old sleeve where the o-ring goes then return ours and give them the measurement of the old sleeve dia where o-ring goes
 
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