Farmall 300 pertronix ignition

Bansheetaz

New User
Howdy. Trying to install an electronic ignition in my 300 rowcrop. I must be missing something as i cannot get spark. Its a 12v system and i have a ballast resistor inline to the positive side of the coil. I have 2 ignitors shown in the attached picture. Are they for 6 volt systems? I was told they worked before and assumed they are for a 12v system. I attached the black wire to the switched side of the coil and the black w/ white stripe to the power side of the coil. Tried them both and tried with both magnetic rotors. If they are for 6v systems can i make them work or have i already fried them. Thanks for any help. Troy
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The "6VP" suffix likely indicates they are for 6 Volt (+) ground.

I'm GUESSING you are trying to operate them om 12 Volt (-) ground, which very well may have let all the magic smoke out.
 
I dont know. When i got the tractor the coil felt pretty dang hot and with the resistor its not as hot. I think it was omitted when it was converted to 12v originally.
 
I was kinda thinking this as well and you are probably correct. I got them in a box of old farmall parts on an auction and was told it was all for 12v stuff but the numbers had me suspicious but had nothing to lose trying them.
 
I've replaced a lot of those electronic ignition due to them being fragile. Points are by far cheaper and will last year and take more mistakes then the electronic ignition will
 
The voltage rating of the Pertronix and the coil rating are two SEPARATE ratings.

The supply voltage to the Pertronix should match the specifications with no resistor, remember it just replaces points, so it resistor was there before it should go back in.
 
Nothing wrong with petronix when installed correctly, I have never understood why anyone would leave a ballast resistor inline when changing to 12 volt (other than not wanting to buy a new coil) get rid of as much
unnecessary stuff as I can. I converted my 240 over more than 20 years ago and have never had a problem with it. get the correct coil for 12 volt (NAPA) and a set of wires that are graphite core and a set of NGK AB^ or
Autolight 386 plugs and you will have years of trouble free use.

I also throw away sediment bowls when they start to leak and replace them with a 3/8 brass ball valve and a Wix inline filter.

I have a show piece 1948 McCormick Deering Cub that I left all original that is in the showroom of a local Case IH dealer-- just saying there are ways to make great tractors even better and that to eliminate weak spots
(points and sediment bowls) and I do know how to work on and properly set points, I just choose to update when needed
 
They are not connected correctly. First get rid of the resistor. Then wire the module to the coil. You really need to call Pertronix and ask their tech support as to how connect the control module up correctly. If I was not 2 hours away from my 300, I could look at it and tell you for sure. I installed mine 10 years ago and it has worked great ever since. The tractor never stated like it does with the Pertronix in it!!
 
Yes the sediment bowl filter is one of the best made and always will be. Even the U.S. Navy uses them for filtering air on sub but I cannot say more what or how unless you talk to me in person and then I well have to do things you would not like
 
Old I agree with you 99.9 percent of the time and I also serve in sumbmarines 631 Gold from 1978 to 1981 I did not say that sediment bowls were not good for filtering obviously they are, but the big plus about sediment bowls is water separating ability. However the sediment bowls used on U.S. submarine is a long long way from the good but worn out (original) stuff and the Chinese made junk avaliable now. I am just tired of spending money on junk to try and avoid leaks only to have them show up in a few weeks of use.
To each his own but for me when they start leaking away they go.
 
Obviously, you want the cleanest fuel you can buy, but occasionally we get fuel and there may be some water in it, or some condensation has formed or somehow, theres water in the fuel. If you set that Wix filter on it side during the plumbing, it will actually hold a little water. Ive made it a habit of shutting my fuel off and letting the tractor die, then pulling off the line and draining the filter into a jar to check for water.
 
I have around 30 tractors on the place and all but one has a sediment bowl and NONE leak. It is all about having good parts and good gaskets. Yes if you buy a sediment bowl from TSC it is junk. If and when I need to replace one I buy them from O'Reilly's and never had a problem yet
 
On a 12v system a 6v electronic ignition is not usable. The switched voltage is OK, the operating voltage will burn out the unit. Buy a 12v device with the proper ground polarity. Jim
 
Heres new info... black and red wires are for negative ground systems.... black and black w/white stripe are for positive ground systems. So the points will go back in after i figure outhow to keep oil out of the distributor. Thanks for all the good conversation
 
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