Farmall 350 - 10 wheel rake

dhermesc

Well-known Member
My Farmall 350 has always seemed to have weak hydraulics. 20 years ago my brother tried to use it with a 10 wheel rake- the older units that fold up. The tractor couldn't move the wings into place and barely enough to raise and lower the rake once the wings were in place. It can lift and lower a 1100 mower with a 3 8 cylinder and it can lift (slowly) the 33 loader with its big (3.5?) cylinders until it runs out of Hytran.

We just bought an older 10 wheel rake and my son tried to get it to work behind the 350 Farmall - again it failed.

Is this just the limits of the tractor or is the hydraulic pump worn out? If it could pull the 10 wheel rake it would make the tractor much more valuable to me - otherwise I am probably going to have to get rid of it. Anyone else using a 300/350 on a 10 wheel rake?
 
It's only a 1250 (or 1500?) PSI hydraulic system.

Most equipment these days come designed for 2500+PSI hydraulic systems, with the tiny little cylinders that just take more pressure than the tractor can produce.

You can make your own pressure tester pretty cheaply. All you need is a 5000PSI liquid filled pressure gauge, a 1/2" NPT Pioneer coupler, and a bushing to join the two together. Altogether it should not cost more than $50 and you can get everything you need at Tractor Supply.
 
I have both a 350 and 400,and a SuperM ,all with live 'mag' pump. The issue is not the pump,but the relief settings in the valveing.The 350 and400,useing the factory valves will not lift the big wheel rake. The SM,with a nonstock spool valve will just idle the rake up. The SM was pressure tested at over 2000 PSI. Haven't yet check the 350/400.If you could figure out how to set up the relief pressures,or bypass the factory valveing(Add a nonstock spool valve?),then your tractor should nave no problems lifting the rake. Side note...My brother in law,put a nonstock spool valve on a SuperA. It too will develop enough pressure to lift a smaller rake.He just cut the pressure line directly from the pump,returned the oil straight back to the reservoir.He did however,eliminate the tractor's lift-all. But it had never been used since his father bought the tractor new 70 years ago. I did the same type of thing on the SuperM(35+ years ago). A similar thing would work on your 350.If you do it right,you can retain the use of the factory valves by just tapping into the pressure line(between pump and valves),and returning back to presure line to factory valves.Mount the valve on the side somewhere out of the way and use a rod to operate it.Your cost would be the cost of the(nonstock spool) valve,plus a few fittings/misc.
 
2000 PSI and couldn't lift a rake?

We pull ours behind a 706 farmall - only 1600 PSI from the factory - who knows what 50+ years later and it makes the rake jump.

This morning first thing my son hooked the 350 to the rake (fluid cold) and he was able to lift the rake (slow) and get started. He raked a little patch and with the hydraulic oil hot - it wouldn't lift. THis has been a issue with this tractor since I bought it - the hydraulics have always seemed weak - even on a sickle bar mower it gets sluggish when the oil is hot.

ANyone ever gain anything by replacing the gasket and O rings?
 
THe cylinders and hoses on this rake are not that small - they all appear to be 2.5 or 3 inch cylinders. A 350 should make 1200 PSI. Our
706 only made 1600 from the factory and it makes the rake hop.
 
We can shoot back and forth until the cows come home. dhermesc, from what I am reading you are basing pressures on what the units were spec.d new. Until you get the oil hot in the 350 and put a gauge in the remote and tell us a number everything we are discussing is a mute point. Numbers at idle, mid throttle and full throttle. Secondly, it would be nice to see a hot readings from the 706
as well. I will link a 6000 psi gauge from Surplus Center in NE for $14.95 plus $10 shipping at least to MN is what is shown. Or if you have a Northern Tool they show a 5000 psi one for $25. Tractor supply or other farm stores may carry them. My shot over the bow is since the 350 lifted it with cold oil, after you chase a few moths away and hinge open your wallet to the tune of $650 plus shipping stick it on there and then you will be utilizing your 350 on the rake.
Gauge
 
Trying to bandaid it with gaskets and orings is a waste of time. Unfortunately they are designed as a throwaway unit. The gears usually wear into the housing and then it leaks by them and cannot make the original spec pressure. Want a rebuildable pump then you need a new generation green paint machine. Although I do not believe the newer Deeres have rebuildable pumps either. A while back someone asked about a pump on an 8000 series and if I remember right depending on the option it was $5000 or $8000 depending on whichever you needed.
 
I would check it - know anyone that sells something like this?


https://www.boltonhooks.com/product/hydraulic-pressure-test-gauge/



Looks ready and easy to use - except they are out of stock on everything.
 
How hard would it be to get an ag end on this one?


https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Coupling-Pressure-M162-BSP1-0-400BAR/dp/B07TD9BH6B/ref=sr_1_41?keywords=hydraulic+pressure+test+kit&qid=1658502889&sr=8-41
 
Havent seen the link. But,buy a 5000 pound pressure gage. Get the needed pipe fittings to hook it up. Exanple.1/8 pipe thread on gage. the hydraulic coupler is usually 1/2 pipe thread. If yoy want,add a short hydralic hose between gahge and fitting.Just use the needed reducer bushings;bell reducers;nipples;coupleings,etc to complete the job. Easy peasy.
 
(quoted from post at 16:36:00 07/21/22) 2000 PSI and couldn't lift a rake?

We pull ours behind a 706 farmall - only 1600 PSI from the factory - who knows what 50+ years later and it makes the rake jump.

This morning first thing my son hooked the 350 to the rake (fluid cold) and he was able to lift the rake (slow) and get started. He raked a little patch and with the hydraulic oil hot - it wouldn't lift. THis has been a issue with this tractor since I bought it - the hydraulics have always seemed weak - even on a sickle bar mower it gets sluggish when the oil is hot.

ANyone ever gain anything by replacing the gasket and O rings?

If that's the case the clearance in the pump is getting marginal that it bypasses when the oil gets thin. You'll need to replace the pump. At one time they were around $1000 but you can currently get them for $649. Not too long ago you could find them for around $500 which I didn't think was bad.

Beware "good used" pumps. You're just as likely to end up with a pump with the same problems you've got now.
 
I've seen them in the $600 range on Ebay, once in the while you'll see one for $480 or so - but I don't know what makes them cheaper than the $600 units - and I don't know if I want to find out. We would probably swap it out this winter. I've owned that tractor for 24 years now and its been a good reliable tractor - and right now it has the best tires of all my tractors - a like new set of 13.6 38 RADIALS that I picked up at an auction last spring when everyone was asking What size is 340/85.38?

Thing is 60 years old and has the best tires on it now than its ever had in its life.
 
know anyone that sells something like this?
Why you asking us?? Put it in the shopping cart and give them your card numbers and get it on the way. Or are you one of these old timers that are afraid to buy things off ..that darn old internet..? Using the gauges Catguy and myself recommended by the time you got fittings and you would be right at their price if you added a hose.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top