farmall 460 torque amplifier

[Mikemes]

I have a 1962 gas farmall 460.

The problem is I have to engage the torque amplifier sometimes in order to shift between first and reverse or vice versa.

I took it to a mechanic who stripped the tractor down and rebuilt the torque amplifier which now works.

However, I still have the same problem with having to engage the torque amplifier on occasion in order to shift from first to reverse on occasion or reverse to first. The problem seems to be more pronounced when I am hauling something on the front loader.

Is there an adjustment that might fix the issue?

thanks,

 

[kevinj54]

It sounds like the linkages are not properly adjusted.

 

[300jk]

I have a 1962 gas farmall 460.

The problem is I have to engage the torque amplifier sometimes in order to shift between first and reverse or vice versa.

I took it to a mechanic who stripped the tractor down and rebuilt the torque amplifier which now works.

However, I still have the same problem with having to engage the torque amplifier on occasion in order to shift from first to reverse on occasion or reverse to first. The problem seems to be more pronounced when I am hauling something on the front loader.

Is there an adjustment that might fix the issue?

thanks,

I agree. Needs linkage adjustment. Can’t always go by the book as your linkage isn’t new and probably has some wear. Can start there and adjust till it’s right. Your manual will get you pointed in the right direction.

 

[bob p mn]

Fought a 504 once that adjusting by the book didn't work had the same problems you're having, found the long adjusting rod was bowed. Straightened it out and readjusted and everything worked as it should.

 

[Janicholson]

TA adjust

The process (as I do it): Set the clutch free play at 1 inch away from all the way up measured at the stop against the platform , to cast contact in the pedal arm. this can be felt by hand. THEN
In an open area with nothing to run into, use low gear TA ahead, and a tape measure, measure the point that letting up on the pedal causes the tractor to begin to move. this is the engagement point of the master clutch. The TA linkage should now be adjusted in the linkage so the TA front cutch begins to be released at this position of the foot pedal. further depressing the pedal releases the TA clutch fully. (usually another 3/4" or so to an inch of foot travel. This assures that the TA clutch is fully engaged when the master clutch applies power through it. It also assures that the full pedal depression releases the TA clutch so shifting is not bound up. The lever should apply and fully release the TA clutch very near the center of its travel. Doing this compensates for linkage wear and I have had no issues doing it this way. Jim

 

[used red MN]

The main tractor clutch and the TA direct clutch both need free play when engaged so they are not riding on their throw out bearings. I am not sure if you are aware of what goes on when the TA lever is moved, it essentially releases the direct TA clutch and the one way clutch locks a section of the TA planetary gears in a stopped position and drives the tractor forward. As I said above the TA clutch throwout bearing needs free play when the lever is forward in direct. In the attached video he does not do a very good job of explaining what he is doing but at least it show the linkages and roughly what to do. The adjustment of the short angle link between the main clutch cross shaft lever (front one) and the TA clutch cross shaft lever is what makes the TA release when you push the clutch. I am not sure what they tell you in the video to set the main clutch free play but JAN’s 3/4” is what I would recommend. Keep in mind that this setting doesn’t leave much “lead way” in terms of riding the clutch pedal, so be aware of that and try to minimize that. And as they show adjust that with the short angled TA link disconnected. Then as he shows set the link to the TA lever with that 1/8” of free space in the adjustment slot. This means when pulling the TA lever back it makes an 1/8” of travel in the slot then starts activating the TA direct pressure plate to release the TA clutch. Here is where I would differ from what he showed. At this point the main clutch should be connected. Then the front slot of the angled link where it connects to the main clutch cross shaft lever should be adjusted to to have its 1/8” of additional play in the front yoke slot as well. That is the initial setting. The thing is that linkage and pivot shaft wear all come in to play. So if you drive up a slight incline an push in the clutch and the tractor doesn’t roll back with the clutch ALL THE WAY DOWN, then that angled rod needs shortened to pull more on the TA cross shaft. The trick is getting it adjusted to the point it will release yet still have free play on the TA throw out bearing. And FYI the TA TO bearing releases fingers pushing towards the back of the tractor not to the front as the main clutch does. You can take the small odd shaped cover off the top that is held on by 4 bolts. In there you can see the TA direct clutch and it’s TO bearing. See what goes on in there may be helpful. Not sure if this will be helpful or not.
TA adjustment video (The video is for a 300 but the TA is the same)
Messicks F460 TA parts Here is a link to the parts diagram of the linkages.

 

[Mikemes]

Thanks for responding. I know how to adjust the free travel on the clutch., but the rest of the adjustment process, I'm not comprehending. I'll keep watching the video, it might sink in eventually.

 

[johnnmr]

Our 560 has been like that for years I just shift the 5 speed with the t/a in low. If it were something we used everyday it might pay to dig into it deeper.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Thanks for responding. I know how to adjust the free travel on the clutch., but the rest of the adjustment process, I'm not comprehending. I'll keep watching the video, it might sink in eventually.

The short link shifts the TA into low every time you push the clutch pedal more than halfway down. It has the same effect on shifting as pulling the TA lever, because it's pulling on the same arm as the TA lever.

The reason this needs to happen is because there's a one-way clutch in the TA that binds up when the tractor settles back slightly after you stop. Notice how you don't need to pull the TA handle if the tractor is on a downhill slope of any kind when you're in a forward gear, or on an uphill slope when you're in reverse. It can't settle back against your previous direction of travel and bind up.

If you've got the clutch free pedal travel set right and the TA lever works, all you need to do is shorten up that short link 1/2 of a turn at a time until it doesn't bind anymore. Just make sure it's not so tight that it's pulling on the TA arm with the clutch out because that'll burn up the little clutch in the TA.

 

[jimmyjoe]

Another thing is to make sure you push the clutch all the way in when you try to shift.