Farmall 560 diesel tractor overheating

Sam Hoops

New User
I ve got a farmall 560 diesel tractor that has a new radiator, new hoses, new water pump, new thermostat, & the engine has a fresh new overhaul on it. Although it has been overheating on us since before we overhauled the engine. The water is flowing into the top of the radiator good. So what could be causing it to overheat?
 
Hello Sam welcome to YT! What is telling you it is
overheating? Just the gauge reading high? Does it
steam and boil? If not I would verify the temp with a
hand held IR gun. Do you possibly just have the
coolant level too high in the radiator and when it heats
up it pushes some out? Liquid expands when heated.
Are you possibly pushing compression into the cooling
system? Did you retorque the head after you ran it a
warmed it up? It seems like on those old Farmalls that
it is almost mandatory to get the head gaskets to hold.
Is the fan belt tight and the pulley grooves are not
wore out? Belt should not ride so low in the groove that
the center of the V is shiny. With the belt tight it should
take a lot of effort to get the belt to slip pushing on the
fan by hand.
 
Well first off does it have T Stat in place ???? , Next up check pump timing , next up on the list has it been turned up ?? next on the list do you have the correct rad in the tractor ?? the diesel rad has one extra row of cores. Now onto what you don't want to hear , It could be a leaking head gskt putting compression into the rad. Or it could be a cracked head and again putting compression into the rad. did you check sleeve stand out when ya rebuilt it ?? Did you have the block and head checked for cracks ??? You could have a cracked injector well . To check for compression getting into the rad here is what ya do , remove the hood then drain the coolant out remove the T Stat , remove the belt for the water pump and fan refill the cooling system up flush with the opening where the T stat sets then start the tractor with the engine being COLD and as soon as it is running smooth pull the throttle wide open and allow it to reach max gov., If it shoots water out ya got a compression leak somewhere. then shut it down . If no water shoots out your good to go then start looking elsewhere.
 
my dad and gandpa use to combine oats together and the 560 always ran hot . the 560 and 706 had the same engine in both tractors . one day when i was
cleaning the radiators i discovered that the 706 had a 6 blade fan while the 560 had a 5 blade fan. grandpa put a 6 blade fan in his 560 and it ran
alot cooler after that
 
Usedred mn might have the answer. The coolant level in the radiator should be about one inch above the cores when looking into the filler neck. If any more full, it will shove coolant out the overflow. There is no expansion tank, and the radiator top is used for that. Jim
 
overheating... how hot is it getting? and yes only have the coolant 1/2 to 3/4 way up that round pipe inside when u look in it. any more and
it will push out under load. you have everything new so the one important thing left is the head has a crack. be nice to have details on this overheating .
 
(quoted from post at 08:58:03 07/26/23) Well first off does it have T Stat in place ???? , Next up check pump timing , next up on the list has it been turned up ?? next on the list do you have the correct rad in the tractor ?? the diesel rad has one extra row of cores. Now onto what you don't want to hear , It could be a leaking head gskt putting compression into the rad.

It s got a new temp gauge and second head gasket since rebuild as we wondered if that was the cause. The new head with the rebuild was tested for cracks and did not have any. The belts are tight. Although it gets boiling hot after running wide open for about 4-5 minutes. The coolant is about 2 in from the top of the cap on the radiator. Checked with a temp gun and did not notice any noticeable hot spots. What do you mean by timing of the pump? The injector pump was rebuilt during the overhaul but was not turned up.
 
Pump timing being incorrect can create heat and power issues. the timing method and specification does depend on what pump is mounted. Jim
 
Have you checked the cap to see if it holds pressure?
If I remember correctly, for every 1 # of pressure, it
lowers the boiling point 7 deg.
 
here u go, i dont feel typing a book. and yes it is very possible your timing is retarded, which will cause hot running. it has to be set at
3 degree's. here is your info. so get your mechanic to check it for you.i have seen people time these tractors by ear also , ... but that is
not what you do.
cvphoto159515.jpg


cvphoto159516.jpg


cvphoto159517.jpg

its very easy to check the timing, set the front pully on 3 degree's in engine rotation on the compression stroke, then remove the little timing window on the pump and have a look see at the 2 marks they must be lined up. if not loosed the 2 pump bolts and turn pump till they line up. done.
 
and i am also looking for the actual temperature i asked for u said u checked with a heat gun, that is of use here. and if it has the original temp guage in the dash the temperature needle will sit in the U in RUN. in a hard pull it will get to the N but that is already getting warm . i watch my tractor pretty steady when working. plus there is a bleeder on that thermostat housing when filling with coolant.
 
What do i mean pump timing . And injection pump is a LIQUID distributor and the timing of the pump has to be set to spec's give or take a couple degrees sometimes to get and engine to run smooth , Now with out going out to the truck and dig in the BOOK for the correct pump timing i am not sure what that pump sets at . Also like a said before even though you have put TWO head gskts in it that tells me NOTHING as it can STILL BE LEAKING compression into the cooling system IF the sleeves are NOT set at the correct stand out or IF the block is warped . I laid out how to do a simple test and that test will show real fast if ya got compression as it will lo9k like OLD FAITHFUL shooting water out . And with it getting HOT in just a few min then i lay good money on compression getting into the cooling system. . When ya don't know all the in's and Out's of rebuilding a diesel just one little overlooked step will give ya nightmares and i have no magic cure in a bottle to give ya and to back track to find your problem it's going to have to come down and start checking everything ya did not do , next up if your usen a FEL PRO head gskt it is a good chance that there is your problem as they are PLAIN JUNK > BUT check all the sleeves for stand out as they can not be higher or lower then a certain amount from the deck of the block.
 
(quoted from post at 16:05:43 07/26/23) Pump timing being incorrect can create heat and power issues. the timing method and specification does depend on what pump is mounted. Jim

It is a belt drive water pump on a 1959 farmall diesel tractor. How do you time them
 
its the INJECTION PUMP as i have posted all the info for you. look at the picture of it .the thing with 6 lines running to the injectors.
that MUST BE TIMED>
 

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