Farmall 560 gas question

[jpi72]

Earlier this summer my son purchased a Farmall 560 that had sat in a shed for approximately 20 years. We had the carburetor rebuilt, a new water pump, and battery installed. Today I hauled 4 loads of manure with it. When shifting I would have to pull the chock out because the engine would sputter. Pulling the chock out for a few seconds seemed to relieve the sputtering. Then push the chock in and the engine would run fine.

Should I adjust the carburetor? A little more gas to the "load" needle? Or do I have some other problem.

Joel

 

[bradleydavidgood]

Sounds like it is running lean. Try opening the carb load needle 1/4 turn.

If it's not that, fuel may be restricted somewhere else like the bowl, a screen before the carb, plugged gas cap vent or sticky float or needle.

 

[47fivewindow]

I agree with Mr Good. It may sound odd. but if you run out of ideas make sure the point gap is not too small. The float may be too low. The main jet could be restricted by a flake of rust.

 

[Powered By IH]

Earlier this summer my son purchased a Farmall 560 that had sat in a shed for approximately 20 years. We had the carburetor rebuilt, a new water pump, and battery installed. Today I hauled 4 loads of manure with it. When shifting I would have to pull the chock out because the engine would sputter. Pulling the chock out for a few seconds seemed to relieve the sputtering. Then push the chock in and the engine would run fine.

Should I adjust the carburetor? A little more gas to the "load" needle? Or do I have some other problem.

Joel

When you say shifting what do you mean? Do you mean the engine is sputtering when you push in the clutch under load, or when you let it out under load?

Does the engine smoke gray/black smoke at all like a diesel when it's sputtering?

Did the engine perform well under load, and it just sputters while adding or removing load?

Could you possibly upload a video showing what's happening so we can better help you?

 

[jpi72]

When you say shifting what do you mean? Do you mean the engine is sputtering when you push in the clutch under load, or when you let it out under load?

Does the engine smoke gray/black smoke at all like a diesel when it's sputtering?

Did the engine perform well under load, and it just sputters while adding or removing load?

Could you possibly upload a video showing what's happening so we can better help you?

It sputters when I let the clutch out and is under a load. I don't see black smoke out the exhaust. It seems to perform well under load after the initial letting the clutch out. It seems "starved" or wants to have more power, but seems held back somehow.

Joel

 

[jpi72]

Sounds like it is running lean. Try opening the carb load needle 1/4 turn.

If it's not that, fuel may be restricted somewhere else like the bowl, a screen before the carb, plugged gas cap vent or sticky float or needle.

Now for the dumb question, which screw is the "load" screw? I don't have a good drawing of the Farmall carburetors. I could guess with some certainty, but why not ask an expert.

Joel

 

[bradleydavidgood]

The load screw—also called the main-fuel or high-speed screw—is at the bottom-front of the carburetor bowl and points horizontally toward the front/radiator.

It is the long screw with a packing/jam nut around its base.

That is the load/main-fuel adjustment screw. Turn it counterclockwise to provide more fuel.

 

[used red MN]

It sputters when I let the clutch out and is under a load.

I would suspect you did something or at least looked at the points and plugs after it sat 20 years, if not that would be where I would go first. And FYI BDG in reply 2 mentioned screen before the carb being plugged I drew a red line to it in my screen shot of his carb photo.

 

[Brownie450]

Carb to manifold gasket not tightly sealed?
Jim

 

[Mrfred54]

Are you releasing the clutch pedal to fast???. Had a customer with a 656 (same engine C263) had the same problem. Complete tune up, rebuild carburetor and when I went to his place to check it out, had him show me what it was doing. When he put it in fourth gear he just released the clutch really fast and the engine sputtered and died. Explained to him that you can’t do that, you have to release it slow. I got on and showed him that there is nothing wrong when realeasing the clutch slowly. He had just bought the tractor and had never drove a tractor before this.

 

[jpi72]

I think I am releasing ok. Thank you for the comment.

 

[jpi72]

Carb to manifold gasket not tightly sealed?
Jim

Seems ok. I will take a closer look st it to be sure. Thanks for the comment.
Joel

 

[jpi72]

Carb to manifold gasket not tightly sealed?
Jim

Carb to manifold gasket not tightly sealed?
Jim

The gasket is new, but I will look at it again. Thanks for the comment.

Joel

 

[jpi72]

The load screw—also called the main-fuel or high-speed screw—is at the bottom-front of the carburetor bowl and points horizontally toward the front/radiator.

It is the long screw with a packing/jam nut around its base.

That is the load/main-fuel adjustment screw. Turn it counterclockwise to provide more fuel.
View attachment 163172

 

[jpi72]

Thank you, that is where I would have guessed.

Joel

 

[jpi72]

I agree with Mr Good. It may sound odd. but if you run out of ideas make sure the point gap is not too small. The float may be too low. The main jet could be restricted by a flake of rust.

The plugs and points have been replaced. I might recheck the point gap. Thank you for the comment.

 

[TomBexley]

Before changing the carb again, I'd be curious what gear and engine speed you're using when it stumbles. Since it pulls fine once the clutch is fully engaged, I'd try the exact same load in a lower gear and let the clutch out a little slower. If the stumble disappears, that tells you something without touching an adjustment. If it still does it the same way, then I'd go back to the fuel/ignition checks the others mentioned. After sitting 20 years I'd want to change one thing at a time or it could get confusing fast.

 

[the tractior vet]

Well not being there to see for myself we will give you a run down where i would start from . Let's start at the carb . Turn the main load screw in till it bottoms out and by that i mean till it just touched the main jet do not force it . The turn it back out FIVE full turns . Next i would check the spark plugs for the CORRECT heat range i myself prefer A C C 86 plugs Autolites are also so decent . You do NOT want D 21's way to hot . Next on the list is the heat riser on the exhaust manifold , make sure it is NOT STUCk and the bimetal spring is inplace . The bad part on the heat riser is that the chamber in what is called the STOVE are now by this time are plum plugged and not putting exhaust heat to the intake throat . And no there is no way to get inside to clean that area as the four bolts that hold the intake to the exhaust are NOT coming out . The only time one can do the clean out is when you replace the exhaust manifold and trust me that is not a fun job . Next is to check engine timing and this is not a ok will do a quick check and set once and forget . Ya need to check curb timing then for full advance timing curb timing is idle timing and what ya have at wide open throttle . Then a valve adjustment I should also add that every you change points ing timing needs checked and re set . Next your gas 560's Stock were meant to run 89 Octane gas . Gas is not Gas . Read the ORG . owners manual . . The one thing ya don't know is what was done on the last rebuild . Back in the mid sixty's one could do a up date rebuild and by doing so added a few more pony's to them somewhere around a 10 hp gain . they got a little higher compression piston a different timing curve , basically ya go a early 706 engine . this changes what fuel ya need to run . Some on here will say i don't know what i am talking about but NONE of them Farmed with a gas tractor or made there living working and buying and selling them . What i liked about a gas tractor was that i could do a rebuild on the engine for less then a rebuild on and injection pump . I could get gas anywhere at any time around here i did not have to have a on farm tank just a tank in the bed of the pick up or a 55 gallon drum . one battery not two , would start in all weather with out pre heat or plugged in , six spark plugs at a buck each not 35 bucks for and injectors . only one gas tractor i hated and that was a 460 gas then jumped up to 706's Can;t tell ya how many of them i had as they sold like hot cakes at a Fireman's Saturday breakfast

 

[Mark EC.IN]

Seems ok. I will take a closer look st it to be sure. Thanks for the comment.
Joel

An easy way to check both that and the intake gasket is to have the tractor running at a fast idle, spray some starting fluid (either) around where the gaskets are, and if the tractor engine surges, you have a leak

 

[Duner Wi]

After being repaired but prior to hauling 4 loads today did tractor run fine doing same work or essentially same work by same operator?