Farmall 560 Won't Start

[Bhaven11]

I have a Farmall 560 that I can't get it running. I have checked for spark from the coil to the center of
distributor by putting in near block and I have a very vibrant bright blue spark. I removed cylinder one
spark plug and there as well I have a bright blue spark. Then figured ok it's fuel drained tank and
cleaned it and replaced sediment bowl. Still no fire I removed intake hose to carb to spray starting
fluid in it and still no fire. Held hand over intake pipe to carb and it sucked my hand up. I then
removed carb and had someone go through it for me. After getting carb back I installed that and put fresh
fuel in and still no fire. I loosened the 2 distributor bolts and rotated 1/4 inch in both directions and
no back fire or fire.

Any one have any ideas? Could it be stuck valve? Currently I have a little head cold so I couldn't get a
good smell of fuel but could carberatur be missing something or not set properly?

Any advise will be helpful please and thank you

 

[Roger Tomfohrde]

First two things that came to my mind is it 180 degrees off on the firing order or is the wires going the wrong way around the distributor cap? I had to change the coil and condenser on one of mine.

 

[Steve@Advance]

Welcome Bhaven11!

You've done some good diagnosis.

What lead up to it not running? Was it running and quit? Been stored a while?

That it had good vacuum at the carb intake pretty much eliminates valve or valve timing problems.

Was your hand wet with gas after the vacuum test? If not, there could be a fuel problem.

Have you checked the oil level? As in overfilled from fuel contamination? Possibly the carb was flooding and the engine filled with gas, washed down the rings.

But, before going further, let's look at the ignition system. Have you checked the point gap? Also check for side play in the distributor shaft.It should have very little side to side movement. If there is side play, the points will not stay set.

Take a close look at the underside of the distributor cap for carbon tracking and beads of moisture. Check for spark at every plug. If any doubt at all, replace the plugs, just to say you did.

A word of caution concerning ignition components. All are aftermarket now. They are notorious for being boxed wrong, or defective. Carefully compare the new with the old, especially cap and rotor. Condensers are known for being bad out of the box.

If there is any question about the ignition timing, which can change without tampering if the drive gear roll pin is sheared, best check it. This procedure is called "static timing" the engine. With the plugs still out, hand turn the engine while holding your thumb over the #1 plug hole. When you feel compression, keep turning until the timing marks align. Firing position will be slightly before top dead center. Now look at the position of the rotor. It should be pointing toward the #1 terminal of the cap. If it is not, and the distributor has not been out, something is wrong. Possibly the gear drive roll pin is sheared or the distributor has turned. Investigate why if it is not at #1. If it's at #6, repeat the turning to feel compression again, see where it is.

To get the timing close enough to start, with the timing mark aligned, loosen the distributor lock, turn the housing the same way the rotor turns a few degrees, then with the ignition on, slowly rotate the housing opposite the way the rotor turns until the points break and the coil fires. Lock it down there for now. That will have it close enough to start.

Now would be a good time to check the firing order of the plug wires. Note which terminal is #1, following the rotation of the rotor, the order is 153624.

If the tractor has been stored, or you suspect the carb was flooding, now would be a good time to give each cylinder a a shot of oil, about a teaspoon in each cylinder, then spin it out before installing the plugs.

The fuel system. You said fresh gas. Are you positive it has gas in it, and not diesel or something else? Seen it before, doing all kinds of diagnosis, only to find it got filled with diesel instead of gas!

There is a drain plug on the bottom of the carb. Have a clean glass ready, with the fuel valve open, remove the plug, catch the flow. It should have a full stream, slow slightly as the bowl empties, but continue to flow, not slow to a drip or stop. Look at what was caught, if contaminated the same will be in the carb bowl. It may need to come back off and be cleaned. If the flow was too slow, start checking back to the tank, see where the restriction is. There may be a screen in the carb fitting where the line connects.

Other things to check, the air filter system, check for restriction, mud dobber nests, rodent/bird nest. Check the exhaust, kinked pipe, collapsed muffler. Check the spark with the ignition switch in various positions, could be an intermittent electrical problem.

Hope this helps, let us know...

 

[Bhaven11]

What should be the order of the terminals on the distributor cap I removed the cap and flipped it over and there is a #1 stamped in cap but it was between two terminals. Also what is the gap of the spark plugs so I can set them this evening.
Is there any adjustments to be made externally if I?m not getting fuel in carb?
I got fuel out of drain of carb on the bottom end just don?t know if it?s going through the carburetor to the intake
Thank you for your help

 

[Bhaven11]

I followed the wires counter clockwise around and they go to the right cylinder for that firing order but unsure if they are in correct location to start with

 

[Steve@Advance]

The number under the cap means nothing, something to do with the mfg process.

You can assign any terminal as #1. When static timing it, just call whichever terminal the rotor points to when #1 is at TDC firing position. Then go from there following the firing order in the direction the rotor turns.

Once you establish there is fuel getting into the carb, as in there is a continuous flow from the drain, the main jet needs to be open about 2 turns off the seat. Gently turn the main adjustment screw in until it just seats, then back out about 2 turns. That will get it close enough to start. The main is the lower, larger adjustment screw.

 

[504]

Take out a spark plug hook the wire back up and then hold the plug to ground to check for fire. Bad or wet plugs will not fire either. (7/8 socket)

 

[Bhaven11]

Got an update removed all spark plugs and noticed in cylinder 3 that there was an object in the hole that wasn?t on other holes got my pick in there and tried to walk it off and found it was metal. Removed fuel tank and all sheet metal and pulled head found that the valve seat had come off and Banged against the head for sometime. My question now is which way would be cheaper having head sent out to get finished or to find a salvaged head in good shape?

 

[rustyfarmall]

Unless you can find a used head that comes with a guarantee, you will be money ahead to take the head to a machine shop.

 

[Bhaven11]

(quoted from post at 06:36:19 03/23/19)
Unless you can find a used head that comes with a guarantee, you will be money ahead to take the head to a machine shop.

Head is in the machine shop getting a new seat put in what if anyone can tell me would be the head bolt torques? Also what is the valve clearance spec. Also is there a TDC mark on the front timing cover? Also what valves would be adjusted at TDC #1