Farmall A hard starting - fueling issue

wowsk

Member
Hi everyone,
Finally got the A running. Had some trouble at first with junk in the fuel tank. I took the tank off and cleaned it and it seems to run great now, picks up in 4th gear no problem. Only issue is it is hard to start. It has an H4 mag with no starter - hand crank only. I'll crank and crank with full choke, fuel dripping out of the carb and think for sure it is flooded. Then I take the plugs out and they aren't even wet - so I don't think it is getting any fuel up into the cylinder. Made sure manifold bolts and intake bolts are tight. Idle screw set 1 1/2 turns out. Checked spark just to make sure. Rechecked valve lash too.

Took the carb off and blew out the passages - didn't seem to help. Could the float setting affect it like this? It is just odd since it runs so well, but starts hard like this.

Thanks,
Noah
 
You need to make sure the main jet needle valve is open
enough. Probably 2 1/2 -3 turns open. Then u adjust the
mixture after its running. Them engines as with pretty
well all Ihc engine should be running after 2 revolutions.
Did u check the float level. ? If its off by a hair it wont
mKe any difference. Turn the top half upside down and
eye up the float. As long as its sitting level its good. It
should fire off with the choke on on the first crank. But of
course you
Must verify the ignition is all good first. Points good and
set to spec. Timing set , then you adjust the carb. Always
last after ignition is in order. What color are the plugs ,
black or brownish. Once then plugs are black from soot
they do not fire good. Plus working it helps keep the
plugs clean. And make sure its running up to temp.
 
If you crank a Farmall and it doesn't start you will get fuel dripping from the carb like you described. If it drips very long your float is stuck but under normal circumstances it should stop fairly quick
after you stop cranking.
 
Charlie, it does drip from the carb while cranking doesn't drip at all when not cranking so I don't think the float is stuck.

rustred,
I thought it might be plugs too so last weekend we got out the spark plug cleaner to make sure they were good and clean. Good to know about how to check the float level. I will look at it tomorrow.

You talk about setting the main jet but I don't think the Zenith on the A has adjust for the main jet? I think the only adjustment is for the idle?

Thanks for the advice,
Noah
 
how can u blow out all the passages in the carb if you did not take it apart? its as i said turn the top half upside down and see if the
float is sitting level. its that easy. do u have experience on carbs, then i can go into more detail. i wondered about these little carbs
on these little tractors if they have a main jet adjustment. to set idle mixture you adjust for the most rpm. then u set the idle. 400 rpm.
if you crank it with choke closed it is normal for the gas to leak out the bottom of carb. plus timing has lots to do with good starting! so
look at that. . i am too far away to come tune it up.
 
You might have already checked this , Im not sure .suggest
Your h4 magneto . Is the impulse working ? Your can hear the spring in there hand cranking ( if not ) .Or you can see it if you take the cap
off and watch the rotor while cranking ,it will release and snap to next firing position. This helps to start .
This is something to check .
The impulse spring breaks or is rusted tight and wont move.
 
I had the carb apart again last weekend after cleaning the gas tank. I didn't check the float level when I had it apart. I'll have to do that tomorrow. I do have experience with these carbs so any advice is welcome.

Impulse definitely works. When distributor cap is off the rotor advances stop moving and then snaps to the next position. When shutting it off it'll start right up, most of the time with one crank. Let it sit for 30 minutes and it's hard starting again.

I rebuilt the whole engine this summer (bearings, rings, valves, etc.) and rebuilt the carb then. I redid the timing when I put the mag on. I set to number 1 TDC and slid the mag until it clicked which is what I understand to be the proper way to time. Double checked it was firing at TDC with the fly wheel mark on the bell housing.

This A has been sitting in the corn crib for 25 years when I decided to get it going, so I don't know the history of it before I started working on it. All I know is there was a rust in the valve train, governor, lifters, etc. I had to take it all apart and clean it up. Worst condition of one I've ever worked on. The F-12 I got going last year sat for 50 years and it wasn't even close to as bad of shape.
 
An air intake leak at the manifold might be contributing. Cranking is slow enough that it might lean out the cold mix and not start easily with it running, a piece of burning punk or incense can be used to see air being sucked in. also when warm, the manifold might warp closer and seal up some. Just a thought. Jim
 
On a cold start try leaving the switch OFF. Then turn it over 2 compressions with the
choke tight shut. Then open the choke at least half way, turn the switch on and give
it a turn. It should fire & stay running. If not , the spark may be weak or plugs
fouled. Let me know OK?
 
you still have junk in the idle circut making it hard to start just because
you can blow air doesent mean the cicut is really that clean. I USE THE
NUMBERED DRILL BITS with a hand held chuck turn the it ove and sometimes there
will be junk on the bit. NEED A MAG LITE so you can look and see if the
passages ae clean at the bottom if the carb is up to snuff engine will start
on first pull
 
Thanks for the idea Gene. I took the carb off last night and checked the float. Holding the top side upside down it is horizontal so I think I'm good there. I'll clean out the passages like Gene suggested and see how it goes from there. I am also going to check the intake manifold and carb for level.
 
Remove the air intake hose from the carburetor and have someone hold their hand over the carburetor as you crank it over to make sure you have good suction to pull fuel up into
the engine.
 

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