Farmall C questions

[Mike Wheels]

Im doing a complete overhaul of my Farmall C engine. I see the crankshaft pulley is friction fit to the crankshaft. Is their supposed to be a bolt and flat washer to hold it on, that goes into the end of the crankshaft? Mine didnt have one when i took it apart, but I see the crank end is threaded.
Also is their supposed to be an o-ring on the tube that goes into the engine oil pump housing? I dont see one. I realize this connection should be submerged in oil.
Also i overhauled the governor parts. I am enclosing a couple pictures. At least I hope. But am I missing something on the end of the shaft that the governor weights are on? Or does the tiny bearing just ride up against the yoke on the governor shaft?
This has been a year long project, I just dont want to screw up now. Thanks.

 

[Mike Wheels]

pictures

 

[khouse6]

there should be an o ring on the tube that goes into the oil pump housing. it should be up close to the shoulder , on the tube. it was on super a, which is same engine.

 

[560Dennis]

I got this in my kit from Steiner ,it list the parts they carry for rebuild.

Pretty good youve only been at it a year. 72 year old Cs are in need lots attention.
Ill post some repairs I did to the lever bushing . Rock shaft lever .
That looks like a new thrust bearing . Careful dont lose the ball bearing . I pack mine with lubriplate 105 or the Lucas assembly lube .
Make sure you coat all moving parts generously with assembly lube ! I dont see any lube on the parts in these photos ,reason I bring this up !.

 

[560Dennis]

My Governor was worn . Important to observe for contact and rotation wear .
Below are brief explanations of correction I made
Lost motion in lever from 15 turn extension spring wear, brazed and re drill counter sink for spring .
Re bushing the housing for speed lever if needed
Braze up wear on the rockshaft lever ,file braze to achieve the .16 radius , this make Governor rockshaft more responsive to rpm under load.
Braze up spring wear in lever from bumper spring . Put inside bumper spring a flat head rivet to improve the contact to lever to rockshaft
If you get a

I have more photos if needed not sure how much information you needed.

 

[Mike Wheels]

I got my governor rebuild kit from Steiners as well. I did add a washer to the rock shaft to get rid of some end play. I didnt have the right size washer to shim the bolt/shaft that goes through the housing side. I tried to do exactly what you did. Its been 1 step forward and 2 backwards on the assembly process with this tractor. Im making progress slowly. I will inspect my other parts more closely in the morning. I like the rivet idea! Yes i have been using pre-lube on the engine parts. Maybe not as much as i should be. I should probally drip some pre- lube on the timing gears before i tighten up front cover.

 

[560Dennis]

I had to loctite (red) on the bronze bushing in Steiner kit for the rock shat outer bushing . Because it under size ,if you find ours slips into the housing , you need to take a center punch and upset od of bushing as many places as your can . Then assemble carefully tapping into the housing with the loctite , make sure you dont tap into far if you dont upset od or it fall into housing . Very difficult to get out again.

 

[riverbend]

I hope you guys keep talking about this. The pictures are great. I have to look into the governor on one of my Super Cs.
Greg

 

[560Dennis]

Not a problem ! Just post some photos of the Governor . That way I can suggest things to do .
I feel Ive over looked the Governor as critical in the process of getting the most out of the c113 or c123 . I want my Governor to respond instantly when it needs to handle loading .
Ive enter pulling competition s to better understand if improved Governor repairs are effective. I feel they are.
I encourage you to repair all worn parts to make them as near to factory blue print for maximum efficiency of your c123
Heres a photo of my heritage Farmall C rockshaft wear and a brazed build up repaired

As you can see from photos theres no way my engine can respond to the demands of engine loading with this much Governor component wear.

 

[Gary Mitchell]

Mike, did you ever find out what holds the pully on the crank? gm

 

[Mike Wheels]

Gary, no body has said anything. The IT manual says to heat and then drive on the crankshaft. I dont have a torch or a bearing heater. I dont think it would benefit to use the kitchen stove. Its -9 right now, by the time i heat it to 250. It would be cold in the 100 yard dash to the shop. I think i heard somebody say the oil in the cast makes it smell badly in house. Lol. Maybe the threads inside crank are for the machine shop to use when turning. My other thought is if the get the pulley good and hot to slide on whats gonna protect oil seal from getting too hot.

 

[Jim Becker]

Get a piece of all-thread (at least grade 5) that fits the threads in the crankshaft. Turn it in full depth. Get/make a flat plate to go on the all-thread and press against the pulley. Use a flat washer and nut to push the plate. Have all the pieces well lubed.

Do NOT do any polishing or buffing to enlarge the pulley hole or reduce the end of the crankshaft. Do check for burrs. If any, remove carefully.

Put a toaster oven close to the tractor. Heat the pulley to 250 (maybe even 300) degrees (not hot enough to hurt the seal). Have everything ready to go when you take the pulley out of the oven and work quickly. This includes blocking the crankshaft from turning and having the right wrench on-hand.

When you are done, remove the all-thread. The pulley will hold itself by friction.

You are on your own to acquire the toaster oven. If your own kitchen isn't an option, try a garage sale (currently out of season for many of us), or a second-hand store.

 

[Gary Mitchell]

Someone's surely going to respond, however, I think an inexpensive LP torch will heat it some and if it's good and clean, you may be able to draw it on with a bolt in those threads and a flat washer to face it. Good luck.

 

[gene bender]

You can also use a hair dryer to heat the pulley.

 

[Jim Becker]

I don't recall the depth of the crankshaft hole or the distance the pulley has to be pulled before it is fully in place. But I think the bolt method will require two different length bolts or a stack of washers that you can add as needed to complete the installation. Plus, you need to make sure you have enough thread engagement so you pull the pulley rather than strip out some threads. That is why I suggest using the all-thread.

 

[IHMANKY]

I keep an old cheap 4 quart or so deep fryer in the shop, keep cheapo hydraulic fluid in it. I use it to heat bearings going over a shaft, works great. Put the part in the basket, drop it in the oil and 20 minutes later lift the basket and take the part out with old welding gloves and usually slips right on.

 

[Mike Wheels]

Well I stole the electric skillet out of the house. Put 1/4 of engine oil in it. Put it on 300 degree for 3 hours. It was a brand new pulley. I had made an oak block to drive it on. It didnt take long for the oak block to not be enough. I held a 2 lb hammer against crank part and beat and beat. Finally after many cuss words i got it drove on 2.25. I flatend part of the v-belt groove in the process. While it was still warmish, i drove taper on one hammer into belt groove and it came back out nice. One crank ear didnt fare the best. For future endeavors I am gonna try to heat up hotter!