Farmall H hydraulics

kcsharp

New User
I picked up a spring tine cultivator for my H and need some help with understanding the hydraulics. I can pick up the implement fine. Doest leak down. When I go to lower it to cultivate the garden spot it wants to sink to the depth of the whole cultivator platform. Mayne im going to lower on the lever but I tried to barley drop it down several times.

With H hydraulics, can I barely lower the thing so the tines are only about half In the ground? When I try and bump it to lower it and take off it just burries the implement into I can't pull it (maybe that's by design idk). After lowering the rod I'm bringing the hydraulic catch back on the driver side of the slot to hold it as I thought that would keep it where it's at and not let the implement go deeper.

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You can install a 2 way valve and run your line from pump to it and back to belly pump. Put the return in where you fill it. You will need an open center valve. Check out surplus center for the valve. Think wood splitter vavle. Then convert your hitch cylinders to 2 way. Pull your control rod and let the belly pump run. Now you have 2 way control of hitch. Ran one like this several years. Finally went full circle and put a live pump on it and built a 7 gallon tank for fluid and installed on right axle. Even added a remote set. Works slick.
 
Two easiest options: Put a restrictor in the pressure line before it splits to the lift cylinders. (If they tap into ports on left and right, connect them together with a "T" then connect the "T to one of the ports through the restrictor. A restrictor can be purchased from hydraulic shops, or Surplus Center) WHen lifting it allows full flow, when lowering, it provides an adjustable flow that prevents dropping.
Another way is to use gauge wheels to limit the drop to the desired depth.
Gauge wheel.jpg


One source.
 
I picked up a spring tine cultivator for my H and need some help with understanding the hydraulics. I can pick up the implement fine. Doest leak down. When I go to lower it to cultivate the garden spot it wants to sink to the depth of the whole cultivator platform. Mayne im going to lower on the lever but I tried to barley drop it down several times.

With H hydraulics, can I barely lower the thing so the tines are only about half In the ground? When I try and bump it to lower it and take off it just burries the implement into I can't pull it (maybe that's by design idk). After lowering the rod I'm bringing the hydraulic catch back on the driver side of the slot to hold it as I thought that would keep it where it's at and not let the implement go deeper.

View attachment 5093
I just raise mine slightly when it drops too deep to pull, instead of raising it all the way up.
 
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I just raise mine slightly when it drops too deep to pull, instead of raising it all the way up.
The release valve on those is not real precise. It is actually just a check ball being pushed up off a seat to let fluid escape. Later models had an improved version of this but it is not as precise as a spool valve. As Tom said when lowered if you bring it back to the raise position to bring it to the position you want, then just let it rest on the stop knob and it should hold the position. Adding the additional valve as wh suggests would be best. If you got a double spool valve you could add rear remotes. Valves that are switchable from single acting to double acting would be ideal, since your 3 point uses single acting cylinders. You can also just plumb or tee the opposite flow port of the valve you connect to the 3 point into the return. If you would plug it you will be dead heading the hydraulic flow causing the pump to go into bypass while lowering your 3 point.
 
I picked up a spring tine cultivator for my H and need some help with understanding the hydraulics. I can pick up the implement fine. Doest leak down. When I go to lower it to cultivate the garden spot it wants to sink to the depth of the whole cultivator platform. Mayne im going to lower on the lever but I tried to barley drop it down several times.

With H hydraulics, can I barely lower the thing so the tines are only about half In the ground? When I try and bump it to lower it and take off it just burries the implement into I can't pull it (maybe that's by design idk). After lowering the rod I'm bringing the hydraulic catch back on the driver side of the slot to hold it as I thought that would keep it where it's at and not let the implement go deeper.

View attachment 5093
Does hitch try to raise or lower when rod stop is on back side of holder when implement is off ground. If so try to move it a little to see if that fixes it, bend operating rod at front to adjust. If it still drops the cylinders could be bypassing inside. One sign of that is some oil blow at top when lifting hitch to full height. Another reason is the check balls not sealing and bleed pressure off cylinders. Can't see how lines hook at front. If two separate lines go to front left opening and one on right it should be okay if check holds. If one goes to rear left and one to right that's two different checks and right side would release before left and make it harder to control. With single line with tee to cylinders if one check lets it drops you can try the other check to see if other is working. More weight on those hydraulics makes it more difficult to lower easy. Like someone mentioned try raising a little after dropping.
 
No it doesn't move once stopped in the up position. It's plumbed one hose on each side. It did better letting it drop then raising it and me stopping it. Just difficult to get it just right.
 

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The hydraulics on an H or M originally were there to lift the implements off the ground. The implements had levers, adjustable stops, or whatever to control operating depth. Something like your cultivator may have had gauge wheels as well. The valves weren't designed for easy fine control. It is about impossible to tell from the picture, but it looks to me like the geometry is off-kilter on your home-made 3-point hitch. That is probably your real problem. What is the vertical distance from the front socket of your top link and the front sockets of the lower links? How does it compare to the same measurement of the rear sockets?
 
I built a three point hitch for my Farmall H back in the 80's and had the same problem. To get a "depth" stop I linked a chain to each lower lift arm and bolted a chain hook for each chain to the upper frame of the hitch. this worked like a chain on a draw bridge and could be adjusted up and down by moving the chain links in the hook. I still use this tractor and it works great on all my 3 point equipment.
 

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