Farmall H starting problems

[farmdave]

I am having beaucoup (does anyone even use the term anymore?) problems with my 1948 Farmall H. I bought it a few years ago from a guy who had restored it. The tractor starting exhibiting starting issues about a year ago. When the engine would turn over several revolutions before eventually starting the large starter button would get exceptionally hot. Then it burnt out. I had to replace it three times before reading on the forum to try replacing the stock button with a solenoid and an "automotive type" button. This worked, but it was still difficult to start and If I choked it gas would start pouring from the bottom of the carburetor. I learned on the forum that this happens a lot with the H and is probably related to a sticking needle valve or float problem. I rebuilt the carb, but the issue still persisted, so I bought a new carburetor and guess what? The gas would still flood out of the bottom of the carb when choking it and it still wouldn't start. I read on the forum that if properly tuned the engine should not need to be choked so I bought new plugs, plug wires, condenser, points and rotor and tuned it. Still wouldn't start and the battery would run down easily so I bought a new battery. That didn't work so my gearhead brother suggested that sometimes the starter might be an issue so I bought a new starter. And...it still won't start. I'm at my wits end here and seriously thinking about trying to get rid of it even though I love the tractor. Any suggestions would be gratefully accepted. By the way, it still has the stock 6 volt system.

 

[Janicholson]

Many times the Battery cables have been changed to skinny 4 gauge car cables. they fail and draw enough current in the process that neither the starter nor ignition get enough voltage. O Gauge wires are needed. Choke from cold only one or two engine revolutions, then off with it. never more. When warm never choke. Make sure the air cleaner is serviced and not restricted. Jim

 

[rustred]

I am having beaucoup (does anyone even use the term anymore?) problems with my 1948 Farmall H. I bought it a few years ago from a guy who had restored it. The tractor starting exhibiting starting issues about a year ago. When the engine would turn over several revolutions before eventually starting the large starter button would get exceptionally hot. Then it burnt out. I had to replace it three times before reading on the forum to try replacing the stock button with a solenoid and an "automotive type" button. This worked, but it was still difficult to start and If I choked it gas would start pouring from the bottom of the carburetor. I learned on the forum that this happens a lot with the H and is probably related to a sticking needle valve or float problem. I rebuilt the carb, but the issue still persisted, so I bought a new carburetor and guess what? The gas would still flood out of the bottom of the carb when choking it and it still wouldn't start. I read on the forum that if properly tuned the engine should not need to be choked so I bought new plugs, plug wires, condenser, points and rotor and tuned it. Still wouldn't start and the battery would run down easily so I bought a new battery. That didn't work so my gearhead brother suggested that sometimes the starter might be an issue so I bought a new starter. And...it still won't start. I'm at my wits end here and seriously thinking about trying to get rid of it even though I love the tractor. Any suggestions would be gratefully accepted. By the way, it still has the stock 6 volt system.

The correct timing of an engine is the key to a quick start. You can replace all kinds of parts and that won’t do it. All mine start on the first or second revolution with 6 bolts as they did back when they came from the factory. 2/0 cables are the answer.

 

[teddy52food]

Mag or battery ign?

 

[used red MN]

It sounds like it still using a 6 volt battery as it did originally, is this correct? Dribbling some gas out of the carb in somewhat normal on a Farmall with an updraft carb, they have a drain built in to leak of excess fuel in the airway. As for choking most old Farmalls only need about two turns of the engine with the choke out and then push it back in. They also don’t need to be warmed up with the choke out part way. This only makes them run rich and fuel fouls the plugs. Then if they are just a parade and show tractor that never get worked very hard the plugs get fouled more and more as it goes along making it start harder and harder. This is only one of several things you may be working against.

 

[rustred]

The correct timing of an engine is the key to a quick start. You can replace all kinds of parts and that won’t do it. All mine start on the first or second revolution with 6 bolts as they did back when they came from the factory. 2/0 cables are the answer.

here is the cables i made 2 days ago for this super 6 that was sitting in the bush for over 20 years. cables are the size of your finger i hope,lol. plus it has an 8 year old battery in it and it starts very good after i tuned it. tuned it,.. i did not replace any new parts. same plug same points only thing is i made the carb gasket. and put in a sediment bowl gasket which i buy by the box full. mostly just a complete cleaning of the fuel system as it was nasty. cleaned and set the points they were way out of wack, set the timing , set the carb and it fired right up. and it was a mess!you dont need new stuff to get a tractor to start good.

 

[rustred]

here is the cables i made 2 days ago for this super 6 that was sitting in the bush for over 20 years. cables are the size of your finger i hope,lol. plus it has an 8 year old battery in it and it starts very good after i tuned it. tuned it,.. i did not replace any new parts. same plug same points only thing is i made the carb gasket. and put in a sediment bowl gasket which i buy by the box full. mostly just a complete cleaning of the fuel system as it was nasty. cleaned and set the points they were way out of wack, set the timing , set the carb and it fired right up. and it was a mess!you dont need new stuff to get a tractor to start good.

 

[rustred]

see the mess,

 

[farmdave]

see the mess,

Thanks Rustred and the other three replies, I appreciate the input. My cables are definitely not thick enough so I will replace them and back off on the choke and see what happens. I will let you know how things work out when I get back to it.
Thanks again!

 

[rustred]

And to add to my reply. All I do is one revolution , push in choke and she starts on the next revolution . That’s how these tractors start. No cranking involved. I even walked over to it 1/2 hr ago and just as I said running on second revolution. It was not running since yesterday. The proof is in the mechanic.

 

[farmdave]

I just wanted to update everyone who provided comments for this thread. I bought a new "0" gauge cable to replace one of the cables that was 4 gauge. Amazing, I would have never thought the cable could make that much difference. After installing the cable the tractor started right up. Thanks so much for the input on this problem. Now I can get the ole girl back to work...the Farmall H that is

 

[used red MN]

Glad it was an easy fix. Thanks for coming back to give the results!

 

[Janicholson]

I just wanted to update everyone who provided comments for this thread. I bought a new "0" gauge cable to replace one of the cables that was 4 gauge. Amazing, I would have never thought the cable could make that much difference. After installing the cable the tractor started right up. Thanks so much for the input on this problem. Now I can get the ole girl back to work...the Farmall H that is

Yippee! Jim

 

[farmdave]

I wasn't sure whether to continue here or start a new thread, but here we go. After all the work I've done on this tractor, I have another problem. The Farmall H now starts right up after replacing the 4 gauge cable with a zero gauge. The problem now is it will idle just fine, but when I throttle up it will run for a few minutes (or several minutes) and then die. After it dies it won't start again until it sits for several minutes. Then the same thing all over again. I read a thread after experiencing this issue that it may be a coil problem. So, I replaced the coil and it still does the same thing. Just for reference purposes, here are all the updates I've done so far:
-New carburetor with correct factory settings
-New battery
-New starter button
-New starter
-New plug wires
-New distributor
-New rotor
-New points & condenser
-New spark plugs
-New fuel filter bowl
-New coil
-New zero gauge battery cable (the other cable is zero gauge and in good shape)
If I keep this up the tractor will be brand new before long. The problem sounds like a carburetor issue, but again it is new and all the settings were correctly calibrated by the manufacturer. Any help would be sincerely appreciated.
Thanks!

 

[rustred]

sounds like u have a fuel restriction at the tank. remove the line from the carb and open the valve at tank and you should have gas flowing out in full flow the size of a pencil. if the tank is dirty inside the junk gets in the stand pipe and plugs the flow . remove sediment bowl and you will see your problem. i been through this many times so confident yours is the same deal. also as to the coil.... when it stops feel the coil if its hot replace it. plus checking the spark by pulling out the coil wire 1/2 inch while cranking is a quick spark check. as to the carb, sure they are set at the builder, but still require a fine tuning when running. the slow idle should be set at 400-450 rpm. and of course the timing is always done first. and quite confident its not your coil. check your fuel flow.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Trouble shooting is best to save a ton of cash on parts then buy parts as needed to solve the problem from the trouble shooting. As for your current problem I would take the line loose at the carb. And see what my flow was if it will not flow a full line it is restricted, and needs the sediment bowl and line cleaned then if no flow out of the sediment bowl the tank is the problem. If it flows well at the end of the line than your carb is plugged and needs the screen at the carb cleaned. IT not plugged then carb is plugged. or there is an air leak between the intake and the engine most likely at the carb gasket since you have had it off. If the intake was off then it needs checked.

 

[used red MN]

If you find a lot of crud from your tank has plugged the outlet in the top of your sediment bowl it may be helpful to install one of these screens in the top of your sediment bowl. See link. YT tank screen I hate to shoot YT in the foot but you may be able to find them somewhere else that doesn’t charge more for shipping than the cost of the part.

 

[farmdave]

Thanks guys you were right. There was gunk blocking the slots in the sediment bowl input. I cleaned that out and was back in business. I have a feeling this was a problem with many of the issues I had starting the tractor. Thanks so much for your input!