Farmall H ??

[bsmart10]

Ok, we got the Farmall H running again as discussed previously in these forums, when the carburetor was having problems. Engine is running well now, idles real smooth, and the governor will demand power from the engine when a load is put on it. But, here's the new question????????
Is this old tractor supposed to be able to go up a pretty steep grade in 5th gear? There's a sizeable jump in gear ratio from 4th gear to 5th gear, and I mean large jump like about 3X it feels like. 4th gear is fairly slow even at mid to upper throttle opening. Go to 5th gear, and this tractor will move along pretty quickly, almost to the point of uncomfortable speed, even on pavement. On fairly smooth pavement, it kinda lumbers along with a somewhat 'bouncy' feel to it. I don't dare open the throttle much above 1/4 open to stay under control, and comfortable.
Anyway, I thought I'd take her up a steep grade of about 15% - 20% in 5th gear, and she faltered on me. The engine didn't die, but the tractor just stopped moving forward, with the engine loading down (rpms dropping audibly). I could hear the governor demanding power to a point, but the engine just didn't deliver. I hit the brake to hold her on the uphill grade, and shifted down to 4th gear, let the clutch out, and off we went again, right up the grade....no problem. Is this a normal response for the old tractor???????
Oh yeah, it ain't my tractor...its a friend of mine's.

 

[old]

A steep grade yes an H may not go up it but it should have stalled the engine so it sounds like it has a clutch that is going bad or badly out of adjustment

 

[Janicholson]

The clutch is bad. And as old points out a letter series Farmall will pull a 10% grade at full throttle, starting on the flat ground. Its job is pulling field implements, not attempting hills. First check clutch freeplay. Should be 1 inch of light pressure from the platform to the pedal where it touches, then much more difficult to push. If that is close, it needs a new clutch. It can be replaced without splitting the tractor from underneath. It is not easy, but very doable. Ask here if there is more info needed about the clutch, or engine. Jim

 

[thdrduck]

5th is transport and that's all and it is fast for an old tractor. It really could use a gear between 4th and 5th because that really is a big jump.

When new a H only had about 25 hp so asking it to haul butt up a steep hill in 5th is a bit much. My H is older than I am and I can't run up hills anymore either.

 

[DR. EVIL]

Yes, in a straight H 4th gear is 5 mph, 5th gear is 16 mph. So a tad bit more than 3 times as fast. Ability to climb hills is inverse proportional to speeds.
I did L-O-T-S of road work with my Super H back in the late 1960's. Typically to town every 2-3 days for ground hog feed, 5500# in our Heider augerwagon, one summer I pulled 2-3 loads of dry shellcorn to the feedmill because the mill put WAY more corn on the books than Dad could pay for, so he bought a bin of dry shell corn, I pulled 10,000# plus the 1100-1200# empty weight of the wagon, that's 178 bushel. I had to pick my route carefully because I sure wasn't pulling up much of a hill with that load! I pulled a couple 16 ft hayrack loads of oat stubble clippings into the cattle salebarn, owner bought it for both bedding and feed for feeder cattle. Pulled them around 10 miles the BACK WAY into town, load only weighed 3500#. Super H had 6-1/2 mph 4th gear, 16-1/2 mph 5th, so a smaller jump in speeds.
If you engine is at anything more than a slow idle lugging in 5th gear with the clutch completely engaged your tractor needs a new clutch. The M&W 9-speed, or the HIESLER 9-speed was popular in H's because it added 4 more gears between 4th & 5th gear. Just like an EATON ROAD-RANGER truck transmission you used 1st thru 4th gear twice, you could actually start a good load in high 1st gear, about 6 mph.

 

[F-Dean]

You are LUCKY it stalled on you! With a good clutch, it would have climbed on you and gone over backward. You might not have been able to pose any more questions.
Do NOT try that when you get it running stronger with a new clutch.

Hs and Ms are notorious for climbing on a steep grade. I had a picker on our M and touched the elevator on the ground behind me. That saved my life! The guy riding with me turned White as a Sheet!

 

[fastfarmall]

I have a hill, 3 miles from the farm,its a 100 foot difference in elevation, a good M or my SMTA about 55- 59 hp,will walk up it in 5th gear real nice,i know a H wont unless you go down to 4th

 

[RAW in]

Dad was telling once that he and a neighbor were hauling hay one time. Dad had his C and the neighbor had an H. He said he could make the trip quicker with the C because it would pull the hills in High gear, and the H had to shift.

 

[SDE]

just stopped moving forward, with the engine loading down (rpms dropping audibly)
Did the tractor slow down or did it stop? If it stopped and the engine was still running, the clutch was slipping. Which means it is going to need to be replaced. If the clutch was slipping, you should have noticed that the RPMs of the engine changed in regard to the ground speed. If on the other hand the forward movement of the tractor and the engine speed both decreased in a proportional amount, and you stepped on the clutch to prevent the engine from stalling, then the clutch isn't bad. Loss of power going up a hill in high gear is normal for low powered equipment.

 

[bsmart10]

(quoted from post at 15:41:02 06/18/21) Dad was telling once that he and a neighbor were hauling hay one time. Dad had his C and the neighbor had an H. He said he could make the trip quicker with the C because it would pull the hills in High gear, and the H had to shift.

My friend is not completely satisfied with the performance of the H. He says he just doesn't think it has the POWER it used to have. So, I'm wondering about cylinder compression values for these old tractors. I know I don't have the compression I once had....i'm getting OLD.
But how about these H's.....what compression numbers should we get on each cylinder...when its cold?
How about when its warmed up to normal operating temperatures?
I'd like to check compression before tearing into the clutch mechanism.
Thanks in advance....

 

[used red MN]

For testing purposes if the engine temp is above 50F that is good hot or cold will make little difference in what reading you get. Make sure choke is open and throttle is at least half way open. Crank 5 compression strokes on each cylinder. The main thing you are looking for is the readings to be fairly even on all cylinders. If the serial number is followed by an X1 that designates gasoline engine. Compression on those should be 85 - 120psi. If it happens to be a distillate tractor and still has low compression pistons ..which is not to likely.. it could be as low as 70. Again even readings is what you are looking for.

 

[bsmart10]

(quoted from post at 22:13:43 10/18/21) For testing purposes if the engine temp is above 50F that is good hot or cold will make little difference in what reading you get. Make sure choke is open and throttle is at least half way open. Crank 5 compression strokes on each cylinder. The main thing you are looking for is the readings to be fairly even on all cylinders. If the serial number is followed by an X1 that designates gasoline engine. Compression on those should be 85 - 120psi. If it happens to be a distillate tractor and still has low compression pistons ..which is not to likely.. it could be as low as 70. Again even readings is what you are looking for.

Great! We'll see about testing later this week...and go from there. Thank you!