Farmall stalling

[BELL]

I have a old farmall M i believe it is a 1950
It runs for about 3 minutes then stops just like you turned it off. I have replaced the coil,plugs,wires,the motor is getting fuel. I believe something is getting hot in that short period of time but what? could it be the condensor? Thanks for the Help

 

[El Toro]

It may be the condenser I would replace it. Hal

 

[JT]

Are you 100% sure you are getting gas to the engine. These tractors are old, the tanks are rusty, and I have one that I have spent countless hours trying to get all the rust and debris out of it. I am too tight to take it to a radiator shop to get it cleaned correctly. What you are describing is a fuel problem, if it were electrical it normally will take 10-15 minutes before it will die. After it dies, how long does it take before it will restart? When it dies, are you still getting 6 volts to the positive side of the coil? Some things to check.

 

[Janicholson]

To see if it is spark, take a old coil wire and cut a groove in it so the center is cut through for about 1/16". Put that wire in place in the coil and dist. tower. Start the tractor and watch the spark in the gap of the wire. If the spark remains constant, and the tractor dies, it is likely the fuel delivery. (possible restriction to carb or in the needle and seat letting it get fuel at a trickle. It will need to flow like water through a drinking straw for two minutes to actually test flow) If the spark quits, swap out the condenser and reset the points. Thermal issues in the ballast resistor can also cause issues if it has one (converted 12v) good luck, keep us informed of success, it is the only way others find out what fixed it!!! JimN

 

[JT]

JimN,
I never thought about that for a spark tester, I guess you can teach an old mangy dog new tricks.
Thanks
Jim

 

[Michael Soldan]

Do you really have fuel?.A restricted fuel flow may slowly fill the carb and line and the tractor runs untill the fuel has run out and then it quits..about three minutes worth of fuel..you must have constant flow...open the petcock on the carb and let the fuel run into a can for an EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME..if the fuel quits running after a few moments you have a restriction, the fuel must be in quantity as well in other words a good even flow about like you could pee after a few beers! If you haven't a good constant flow you tractor will never run properly.

 

[Brownie450]

While it is running, use a voltmeter to check voltage from the ignition switch at the coil. Leave the meter on until the engine stalls & see what the voltage is when it stops. If voltage starts to drop off just before it quits, check ALL wire connections in the coil primary circuit. Could be one of the terminals is down to 1 strand of wire carrying all the coil current. When it runs the 1 strand will build up resistance enough to kill the spark. Been there- done that.

 

[DCW]

My H had much the same problem,and I did pretty much what you did to fix it with no avail.

Turned out to be the IH IGNITION SWITCH.If I just touched it a little,the tractor would shut right off.Even a hair,and it would quit.Replaced it,no more problems.

 

[BELL]

I have replaced the condersor, tried 2 coils, and put in a inline resistor do to the coil getting hot, now the resistor is getting so hot you cant touch it. If it was a gas problem I would think it would cough and spudder before it shut off but it just dies like you turned the switch off. The tractor has been switched over to a 12 volt system

 

[BELL]

If it is a fuel problem wouldn't the motor cough and spudder before it shuts off? this one is shutting off just like you turne dthe switch off

 

[BELL]

I hear you on the tank had the same problem when my father in law brought it down from chicago,we pulled it off 3 times trying to clean out the rust. Takes about 10 minutes before it will crank again. I put in a inline filter to help with that issue. I cant figure out why the coil was getting real hot so we put in a inline resistor, now the resistor is getting real hot.

 

[El Toro]

Have you checked the charging voltage at your battery with the engine at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle?
It may be overcharging should be in the 14.0 to 14.5 volt range. I would buy this coil from Napa
IC14SB as it has the ballast resistor builtin to the coil for less than $20.00. I was told sometime ago they were $40.00 until someone sent me an email, so I called my local Napa store again.

Have you checked for fire when the engine quits?
Pull that coil wire from the cap asap when the engine quits and hold that coil wire near a good ground while someone makes an attempt to start the engine. If you have good hot spark from the coil wire you have a fuel problem. Hal

 

[hbauer]

I'll go with the electricity interruption theory. Had that problem on my 68 Camaro starter motor. I'd be parked with my chick on a date...went to start it..no go.
Wind blew the car..she started right up. Happened several times. I went underneath and saw the cable to the starter had worn down to almost only a single strand. When the wind blew, the other strands of wire made contact...simple thing, but it can be the problem. Check out primary ignition circuit wires.
It was a good situation at first..kept the chick in my arms a while longer!