Fast 8N question

[bigtom1960]

My clutch is frozen , I pulled the starter and looked inside , for some unknown reason it is damp inside there , now , I did read somewhere that you can drill a hole in the side of the body about the size of a silver dollar , right where you can see the clutch plate and stick something in it to try to pop the plate loose , has anyone did this ? , and can I use a torch and burn a hole or is drilling better ?

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Just bend the straw from a can of brake cleaner behind the flywheel and spray it.

If it's a sidemount, get to it from the timing hole.
75 Tips

 

[Royse]

I wouldn't torch a hole in it. There isn't "supposed" to be oil in
there, but if there is it could turn into a bad situation. It would
also be harder to close up then a drilled hole that, say, a proper
sized electrical plug would fit in. Either way, it's a hole and if
it isn't plugged you'll have mice nests in the clutch. BTDT

To me, the best way if it won't break free from spraying it and
trying the other methods (towing, starting in gear and driving if
you can do so safely, etc.) is to split the tractor.

If you live in an area with cold temps, the moisture may be
condensation. Here's my last stuck clutch. Bought it that way.

 

[Harold Melius]

Just remember that if you spray anything in the clutch housing that is flammable, to be careful. If you hit the starter the gear can cause a spark when it hits the flywheel. I speak from experience when I say it can throw out a real nice fireball.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Makes me sad to think someone would even
consider torching a hole in one of these
tractors. Especially when you can split one
in just a couple of hours...
And no, a torch wouldn't do very well. Those
transmissions are a very good grade of gray
cast iron that will weld or braze nicely but
doesnt cut with a torch worth a darn.

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Since it's an 8n just pop the steering box,block down the clutch
pedal and spray or whatever you need to do. Splitting the tractor
ain't that hard and if it looks like Royse's you will have to
split it anyway and likely have to take it apart piece by piece
with a putty knife and hammer.

Kirk

 

[ericlb]

dont suppose you caught that on camera? that would be a site to see lol, plus a good pic for the stuck and troubled section, its slow over there

 

[ericlb]

1 last thing you might try, if you have plenty of open ground, is get the tractor hooked to something like a disc,or harrow, so you can work the snot out of it, and make it grunt for an hour or so,it will move when you hit the starter so plan accordingly, if no large piece of property dont try it! sometimes that will pop things loose,

 

[bigtom1960]

I wish to thank everybody for their help I have tried and tried to get it unstuck I guess all is left is to split it apart if I understand correctly if I disconnect everything on the outside of it , unbolt,at the middle as long as I have both parts Braced up good , it should be able to pull it apart am I correct or do I have to remove any shaft first I have looked on here and was hoping to find step-by-step instructions but I could not locate any

 

[Bruce(VA)]

(quoted from post at 19:27:17 05/17/17)
I wish to thank everybody for their help I have tried and tried to get it unstuck I guess all is left is to split it apart if I understand correctly if I disconnect everything on the outside of it , unbolt,at the middle as long as I have both parts Braced up good , it should be able to pull it apart am I correct or do I have to remove any shaft first I have looked on here and was hoping to find step-by-step instructions but I could not locate any

The I&T FO-4 manual has the step-by-step process.

 

[bigtom1960]

Where can I find that manual ?

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 16:39:36 05/17/17)
Where can I find that manual ?

Your hosts here at YT sells them.

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/store/mansrch.pl?Manufacturer=FO&SearchString=%278N%27&WhatCatalog=Manual&WhatMode=mm

 

[Royse]

(quoted from post at 18:52:48 05/17/17)

(quoted from post at 16:39:36 05/17/17)
Where can I find that manual ?

Your hosts here at YT sells them.

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/store/mansrch.pl?Manufacturer=FO&SearchString=%278N%27&WhatCatalog=Manual&WhatMode=mm

TSC and other places sell them too.
Be sure you're buying the version that is 100+ pages.
Not the thinner, cheaper version.

 

[9njunkie]

before you split the tractor try this ....


First if it's lightly stuck sometimes if you wire the clutch pedal in the down position and leave it for a few days sometimes they will pop free on their own.

Second ...

Not OSHA approved and only try this if your comfortable.

Jack up the rear of the tractor so both rear wheels are off ground. Make sure it's jacked up securly. Bypass the neutral safety starter switch and start the tractor in high gear. Open up the throttle so tires are spinning as fast as they will go and then jam on both brakes HARD at the same time.

I've had good luck with both methods

 

[bigtom1960]

after a brief stay in the hospital I am now ready to try this task , can someone please post a drawing of where I should place wedges when I start separating it so the motor will not spin over ? I am concerned for a safety issue

 

[bigtom1960]

(quoted from post at 17:34:31 05/29/17) after a brief stay in the hospital I am now ready to try this task , can someone please post a drawing of where I should place wedges when I start separating it so the motor will not spin over ? I am concerned for a safety issue

I am trying to post a picture of where I am out right now

 

[bigtom1960]

 

[bigtom1960]

All I have left to remove before the split is 2 bolts , where do I put wedges ? I need a picture or drawing please if anyone can

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 12:12:28 05/30/17)
All I have left to remove before the split is 2 bolts , where do I put wedges ? I need a picture or drawing please if anyone can

 

[Dune Country]

Have you tried to just separate it?

Also on the lift you have for the front I would put some vice scripts or c clamps on those lift bars that are sloping downhill so the straps don't slip off.
safety first!!

 

[bigtom1960]

(quoted from post at 11:43:30 05/30/17)

(quoted from post at 12:12:28 05/30/17)
All I have left to remove before the split is 2 bolts , where do I put wedges ? I need a picture or drawing please if anyone can

 

[bigtom1960]

That is what it looks like after I split it on the ground you can see everything I pulled out of it my concern is where the clutch bar is going from side to side it is rusted real bad , what does everyone think has anyone seen one this bad before the clutch pedal is frozen and will not move so I sprayed penetrating oil on it

 

[R Geiger]

Lookks pretty rough, does the engine turn over? What does the inside of the transmission look like.

I would have the flywheel turned down at a machine shop and replace all of the clutch parts. The clutch pedal should free up in time. PB blaster is your friend.

I would take the sherman out and open it up and clean it up also.
Good luck, you can bring it back but it will take wee bit of work.

 

[bigtom1960]

What is the Sherman I do not understand what that is

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 16:01:14 05/30/17)
What is the Sherman I do not understand what that is

The Sherman trtans is the small gear box with the able going to it between the clutch and wthe transmission. You should have a knob on the dash. some have a lever on the left side but your looks like the push pull type.

http://www.oldfordtractors.com/

go to this site and click on Sherman transmissions

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 16:31:12 05/30/17)

(quoted from post at 16:01:14 05/30/17)
What is the Sherman I do not understand what that is

The Sherman trtans is the small gear box with the able going to it between the clutch and wthe transmission. You should have a knob on the dash. some have a lever on the left side but your looks like the push pull type.

http://www.oldfordtractors.com/

go to this site and click on Sherman transmissions

In looking at Smiths site, it looks like you have a step up Sherman with the cable which is probably froze solid. If it worked it would give you higher speeds in each gear. not as useful as a step down Sherman in my mind. The 8n goes too fast already.

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 19:49:06 05/30/17)
The 8n goes too fast already.

well, this is the "Fast 8N Question" thread

 

[Royse]

I'm assuming you mean cribbing under the rear half.
Here's a picture of the blocks under the last split I did.

And one of the stuck clutch on the one before.

 

[bigtom1960]

well I did it ! Split it apart and changed the clutch, pressure plate and the throw out bearing , just put her back together and started it , I tried to put it in first gear and could not but it went into second great , I lifted my foot from the clutch and noticed the pedal stayed down so I lifted it up manually , wrong thing to do ! She piped up in the front real fast and died , so I then used a old throw out bearing spring and hooked it up , then put it in second gear and let up slowly, she took off great ! So now I need to find out why it will not go into first or third , any one have any idea? I am taking it a step at a time !

 

[Royse]

Not going into first or third. Does your shift lever wobble?
I have had the spring under the cover break and block the
shift lever from moving far enough to the side to get into
either 1st or 3rd. But my shift lever would wobble and/or
lift up and down a bit if I lifted on it from the knob.

Here's a picture of the bottom of my transmission cover with
the broken spring. As you can see, it was also well worn.
I replaced the whole cover with a good used one.

 

[bigtom1960]

thank you for the fast reply I will check that in the next few days when I take the cover off

 

[bigtom1960]

I pulled the shifter panel off and found my problem , the first and third control rod was corroded and frozen, after around 20 min working with it with a hammer and prybar, I got it to working great ! Now my next question is I know I have the Sherman tranny with the push/pull cable on the dash , it is frozen pushed all the way in , is this the high or low speed ? I think it is high pushed in , am I correct ?