FEL Deck Question

[NCmau]

I am working on a 30 in, one blade deck to be mounted in front of the loader bucket. The engine is a 12HP vertical rotating CW coupled with V belt. The blade spindle is LH tread. My assumption is if this deck would hit something hard, the blade nut would loosen. I am looking for a suggestion to deal with this situation. Would a double nut do it? Maybe you guys have a better idea. I do not want to be under a constant worry that the blade would come loose.

 

[Royse]

Any chance of changing the spindle with a RH threaded one?

Barring that, is there a flat side or other design on the spindle
shaft to keep the blade from spinning?
If there is, a flat piece of steel under the nut cut to fit the flat/design
and then bent up the sides of the nut after tightening to hold
the nut from turning maybe. If you have room for it.

Castellated nut with a cotter key possibly.

 

[Bob Harvey]

Maybe a guard/safety bracket might be in order. Likely better to have the blade come loose than damage the riggin'. If there is a chance it could come off and damage your car or a kid, I'd figure a guard. HTH

 

[Indiana Ken]

Is the exposed threaded end of the spindle such that you can drill a cross hole through it? If so, drill the nut for use with lockwire. Install the lockwire such that it pulls the nut in the direction to tighen it just as the airplane boys do. Be sure the lockwire is twisted as it exits the spindle cross hole until it enters one of the lock wire holes in the nut. In this manner the nut must break the lock wire to loosen and then shear the loop of lockwire in the spindle hole before the blade can get free.

 

[leonard j. etta]

Do not think it would be wise to alter this
situation in any manner,as it was designed by
by manufacture to what you have,if you secure
engine to the driven component,you may break
crankshaft[some times happens] or cause injury to
your self or others.

leon

 

[Den N Ms]

NCmau,You could drill the spindle for the next oversized bolt and tap right hand NF threads in the spindle.Then drill out the blade,use a larger siz NF bolt and lock washer.

 

[Bob]

Reading between the lines, you must be running the spindle in the opposite direction from it's original rotation?

You must have found a blade that fits that's made for the opposite direction, as well?

Does the spindle have integral, protruding threads, or is it internally threaded so you could go with Den's suggestion to Helicoil it?

 

[NCmau]

(quoted from post at 08:41:44 02/12/15) Reading between the lines, you must be running the spindle in the opposite direction from it's original rotation?

You must have found a blade that fits that's made for the opposite direction, as well?

Does the spindle have integral, protruding threads, or is it internally threaded so you could go with Den's suggestion to Helicoil it?

Thank you all for the prompt responses. This site never ceases to amaze me. The spindle is not threaded internally and the blade does not have a flat spot. So, as suggested, two potential solutions would be a lock wire through the spindle and/or a castle nut wit a cotter pin.
A possible solution that comes to mind is to rethread the spindle RH. I know that cross-threading is sometime done but I don’t know if it would applicable to this situation. I have the die but I am sure I can do it myself…may have to consider a machine shop.
The spindle will be running opposite direction from the original deck configuration. The blade is a flat bar with replaceable cutting ends, so it wouldn’t be any problems in reversing the cut.
I would really like to use this deck. It is heavy duty, the right size and ideal for my use. This is not to be used as a lawnmower. Typically it will be used in the woods probably no more than 12-18” above ground.
I will be in the tractor seat so safety wise, it wouldn’t be any different than a bushhog.

 

[Den N Ms]

NCmau ,what size is the nut or the protruding thread size?What is the diameter of the shaft?Maybe cut the threads off and drill and tap the shaft.Or remove the shaft from the quill,put it in a lathe and cut down for the next smaller size NF thread.A picture would be helpful too see it.How far away from the shaft will the engine be?

 

[NCmau]

(quoted from post at 16:58:37 02/12/15) NCmau ,what size is the nut or the protruding thread size?What is the diameter of the shaft?Maybe cut the threads off and drill and tap the shaft.Or remove the shaft from the quill,put it in a lathe and cut down for the next smaller size NF thread.A picture would be helpful too see it.How far away from the shaft will the engine be?

Either suggestions are good. The threaded part is 5/8” dia and 1” long. The larger is 1” dia. By making the shaft 1” shorter should not be a problem and probably would be the best way to go. I’m leaning toward cutting the shaft to 5/8 and rethread it (by machine shop). Before I do that, I’m going to try to drill a hole/nut and cotter pin. If that doesn’t work then I’ll bite the bullet and take it to a machine shop.

 

[ScoutB]

If you have room for a double nut then use one of these as the second nut.
http://www.ruland.com/ps_collars_shaft_tcl.asp
They're made in LH thread as well.