Fergie Newbie

[stableboy]

I have what I believe to be a TE A20 There is no serial number tag and can see no evidence of there being one before just need some opinions. Purchased to do a small hay field with an IH 1300 and a HN model 55. Just need a ton of work as seller lied and lied about true condition. See pic. Tried to load other pics but wont go thru have slow hotspot from v network tonight will try later

 

[stableboy]

wont let me add pics or edit post?

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Supposedly you need 5 post to this form before it will let you post pics.

 

[John Deere D]

These are TEA-20 pics ...Credits to the Internet.....

Bob..

 

[Charles in Aus.]

Look for cast numbers vertically adjacent to the rear dipstick rhs behind seat . This will give you a rough date of manufacture dd/mm/ year of 50th decade .
Thus 01/04/ 03 would translate to 1st April 1953.

 

[stableboy]

Thanks for the replies much appreciated. The big difference I can see between the pics and mine are I have floorboards and larger front tires, no toolbox. As for casting numbers this forum wont accept them says they are questionable words/

 

[John Deere D]

06...July...1953

I installed running boards on both my Ferguson TEA-20 and Ford 2-N ...Running boards came from a MF 35..

Bob..

 

[stableboy]

The numbers on mine are 1 3 1

 

[Charles in Aus.]

1.3.1 translates to Ist of March 1951 , which happened to be a Thursday.

This is the date the back end was cast , a week or two up to a month later it would have left the Ferguson production line at Banner Lane Coventry UK as a complete tractor.
That is assuming it is the original rear and hasn't been swapped over.

 

[stableboy]

Thanks for the date info. I have every reason to believe rear end is original. Now is there any way to connect this date to a serial number range? As I said before there is no tag and no evidence of one either. Does anyone have a pic of exactly where this tag should be?

 

[John Deere D]

Quote:
Now is there any way to connect this date to a serial number range?

I can only share with you, my daily user TEA-20 left the Factory S# 182991.....1951

Bob..

 

[stableboy]

Bob thanks for the serial number location. No mine does not have that. Also cant see any evidence of one in the past. Trying to upload some pics for some thoughts on my project tractor.
Tells me this

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[stableboy]

 

[stableboy]

 

[Charles in Aus.]

Six volt TEA20 , the head is a TEA so it was not a TVO converted back to petrol .
No records show engine numbers linked to serial numbers unfortunately. The serial plates are very thin alloy and can corrode around the steel screw rivets that hold them to the turret . They fall off easily after that .

I would start spraying penetrating oil on the steering wheel nut once week , they weld on ! You will most likely need to change the top bearing in the column and the wheel must be removed to do it , a poor design lets them run dry and most are rusted badly and can lock up the steering without warning .

 

[John Deere D]

Any history on the 6 Volt STARTER.....?

Here in North Western Alberta Canada....To purchase a ready to install 6-Volt Starter for the Ferguson TEA-20......I had better success finding old Native Arrow heads... Spear points.......

Bob..

 

[stableboy]

Thank you Charles and Bob. Starter was said to be converted to 12 volt, Battery is 12 volt and turns it over with no issues.

 

[stableboy]

At this point I am thinking that this model was not real popular in the Us especially in western New York, as I have not seen many Fergies at all being used. Purchased this one to do hay on a 2 acre field with a IH 1300 sickle bar cutter, a NH 55 hay rake and a old new Holland 270 baler

 

[John Deere D]

Good evening Fergie Newbie ..

The below picture you posted.....is that Ident TAG on the Radiator by chance.?

I shall check the RADIATORS / Spare parts Tractors I own for such a TAG...
Bob..

 

[John Deere D]

Fergie Newbie ..If you have any questions as to the tune up specifications for your TEA-20 do ask......

I've owned my daily runner TEA-20 since 1974,as this Tractor was on the property I purchased. The individual whom I purchased my property from had purchased this Tractor new in 1951.

Picture of a spare Engine I have.

I have a suggestion for you...
Remove Engine Starter....
Transmission in Neutral..
With a color metal marker, high lite one tooth on the Ring GEAR, then place a mark corresponding with the tooth on the face of the bellhousing that the starter attaches to....
Remove DISTRIBUTOR CAP...
Place a socket on the cap screw that holds the front pulley to the Crankshaft..
Rotate the engine CCW.. then CW back and forth watching to see how many TEETH on the flywheel move past the MARK you placed on the bellhousing ..before the ROTOR on the DISTRIBUTOR starts to move..

The TEA-20 engine has a CHAIN / Sprocket drive (Camshaft)....NOT a GEAR drive as its cousins have...TO-20...TO-30
To operate a TEA-20 with a faulty / badly stretch Camshaft drive chain / sprocket can be costly..
Parts book was listed on e-bay..
The engine has WET sleeves. I'm not aware of any weak points in the design of the ENGINE BLOCK..

Bob...

 

[Charles in Aus.]

The six volt starter hasn't been converted Stableboy , it is just running hotter and faster on 12 volts now . Be careful with it they are even scarcer than Bob suggests and extremely expensive in the UK and here in Australia . Only operate the starter for short ten second bursts at the very longest and only a few in any one start attempt . The alternator is an indication the tractor is now negative earth so check the coil connections and see if they have been changed as these are often overlooked .

 

[John Deere D]

Pay heed to Charles comment on the factory 6 Volt Starter...now operating on 12 Volts..

Pictures are of a TEA-20 Factory 6 Volt start after to many extended attempted starts with a 12 Volt battery.

The failed component is to absorb Torsional impact with a 6 Volt battery...!!

It was only by the grace of some higher being that I was able after several months located the last two DRIVES a gentleman in England had stashed in an old ROMAN Treasure Chest..LOL.......LOL

I'm going to clean the components of the filed torsional impact component,and have a local firm whom installs vehicle windshields fill the cavity with the sane material used to bond a vehicles windshield to the body.

Bob..

 

[stableboy]

Bob Yes that pic is of a tag on radiator. is there such a thing as a 12 volt starter?? Also had a stuck valve and the retainer broke. Rotating retainer can one be found in the US

 

[John Deere D]

There is a 12 Volt from the factory LUCAS starter for the TEA-20 Ferguson tractor

HOWEVER... it will only fit a TEA-20 Ferguson Tractor that was originally sold with the 12 Volt Starter. This starter will NOT fit a tractor that was shipped originally from the factory as a 6 Volt..

There is a 12 VOLT after market STARTER advertised to indeed fit a TEA-20 that was originally a 6 Volt Starter.

I have no idea if the 12 VOLT after market STARTER advertised will fit a TEA-20 that was originally a 6 Volt Starter

888-334-2632 [email protected]

As I reside in CANADA, I have no idea as to the location of FERGUSON TRACTOR WRECKERS in the USA..

The original 12 Volt starter has to long of an armature, as well as the 12 VOLT starter engages from the AFT / REAR side of the ring gear.. not the from side of the ring gear like the original 6 Volt Starter does..

PICTURE credits to Charles from Australia..
12 Volt Starter.......NOTE BELL HOUSING designed to accommodate longer ARMATURE of 12 volt starter..
Bob..

 

[stableboy]

Bob thanks for the starter pic. I can clearly see the bellhousing difference. I do have another question that maybe you can help me with. This tractor I purchased on what the buyer said as far as usage and condition. Said he used it spring before I purchased it in the fall. Had no spark said [points were not set right. When I got it home I got the spark problem solved and now had good spark. Went to change oil and this is where things got very bad. Oil draining contained anti freeze. Then proceeded to tear down engine. weather got cold and barn not heated had to wait till this spring to tear off head. Found a bad head gasket. I have attached pics of the valve train as I found it when cover was removed. I cleaned all but it seems that a tappet might be stuck on cylinder 4. How do I remove it. Also exhaust valves have rotating retainers and 2 are not usable from cyl 3 and 4. Are they available or can I got to the non rotating ones like opn the intake valves . Sorry to ramble but I like the tractor and is a great size for us and do not want to give up on it now. It deserves to be saved.

 

[John Deere D]

Good morning Fergie Newbie:

Under NO circumstances do you turn the engine over with the head REMOVED...!!!!!!!!!!!
Actually, it's you engine your $$$$$'s..I would NOT turn the engine over as per stated above.

If you turn the engine over with the head removed ...the Piston LINERS /SLEEVES shall move up away from the bottom boss that the LINERS / SLEEVE mate on. This shall cause the Siamese GASKETS to break....ALL antifreeze / coolant shall drain into oil pan!

There is a way to secure the LINERS/SLEEVES when head is removed...see picture

I always install a NEW Thermostat when I find the sludge as you have....right or wrong I install a Thermostat that is from 175 F > 180 F.. Other may disagree and that is fine....

I would NOT be concerned about the physical characteristics of the new thermostat ..if it fits install it..be sure it's installed in the correct orientation as to flow of coolant.

With OIL PUMP INLET SCREEN removed.. clean the inside of the oil pan the best you can..
Leave the oil pump inlet screen off...when you have installed the head..Thermostat..and filled cooling system...you then shall view / check for any coolant in oil pan..
Use a mirror and check for coolant leaking from the Siamese gaskets at the base of the LINERS..

Remove the OIL filter housing ..some of those TEA-20's had a throwaway filter....some had an Element that you clean and reinstall.

When it comes time to start your Tractor...after you have verified NO coolant leaking into oil pan...I would add 15-40 oil to the engine...run it get engine hot..(165F >185 F) drain oil ,replace oil filter..at 15-40 oil and call it good.
Bob..

 

[stableboy]

I cleaned the head and pulled the oil pan and cleaned them. It seems that a tappet is stuck on cylinder 4 exhaust. How do I remove it. Also exhaust valves have rotating retainers and 2 are not usable from cyl 3 and 4. Are they available or can I go to the non rotating ones like on the intake valves?

 

[John Deere D]

Quote:
I cleaned the head and pulled the oil pan and cleaned them. It seems that a tappet is stuck on cylinder 4 exhaust.

Have you attached holding devices to the block so as the CYLINDER Sleeves can NOT move ????
Have you tried a MAGNET to verify if the TAPPET will move at all ????

The best results I have ever had to free up a Tappet was to spray Kroil penetrating fluid on top of the Tappet..

How did you verify the Tappet is stuck.???...Is Tappet on the base circle of the CAM LOBE..?? Is Tappet at full lift of the Cam lobe..??

I ask, as you may have to tap the tappet down once PENETRATING FLIUD as been applied..
The pictures only indicate TWO devices holding down fours sleeves. I would install four devices if I had to rotate the Crankshaft..
Others may have their suggestions as to free up Tappet...
Post a picture from the bottom of the engine viewed up into the engine block..
You may have to remove the Camshaft...?
First I would like to hear how you know the Tappet is stuck.?
Bob..

 

[stableboy]

Good Morning Bob, First I want to thank you for al your replies. I have learned a bunch since i started on this Fergie adventure. Yes I have put plates on the cylinders as you have shown TU. As for the tappet being stuck I can move all but the last one with a magnet that fits inside the tappet bore. it will not lift it out but it will move it. I can also put my finger inside the inner bore of tappet and rotate it. I have sprayed it with penetrating oil last night and will try to free it up today. Will advise of progress.

 

[Charles in Aus.]

There is a possibility that one of the valve springs is broken , look carefully at them especially the one under the misaligned rocker arm . You can loosen off the pedestal bolts a little , this will give you some wiggle room for persiading stuck bits to move .
One addition to Bob's advice on thermostats , if the surrounding plate of any new thermostat doesn't have a small hole in it drill a 1/8th one to allow air to equalise . Without this air locks occur that stop hot coolant reaching the wax bulb and will prevent it from opening .

 

[John Deere D]

Good morning...
Info on picture from Parts Catalogue..
Before I purchased several parts Tractors, I would go online and enter Ferguson Tractor Wreckers .
EG...Ferguson Tractor wreckers New York State US
Ferguson Tractor wreckers Main USA
Ferguson Tractor wreckers Vermont USA
Ferguson Tractor wreckers Ontario Canada

I have also entered.. Silver Fox Tractor Parts...This firm is from England..

I have a spare head.. I shall take a picture to verify if all Valves have the same COLLARS or if the exhaust have Rotators
Bob.

 

[stableboy]

Bob, Thanks for the reply, now here's the problem. I have a head that has rotating valve spring collars on all the exhaust valves. Of the 4 2 are bad of those 2 1 is shot completely. I had thought of replacing with non rotating as is on the intake valves. Problem with that is the springs are shorter by 1/4" on rotating valves. Also the guides are shorter but not sure if that makes any difference. The parts book does show a Rotocap Number 181 851 M91 I can not find any so far. These are listed after part #37 but have no reference number. I will try to post pics a little later. I am beginning to think it is time to throw in the towel. I did get the froze tappet to work again.

 

[stableboy]

Valve pics

 

[John Deere D]

Where and how many different Tractor Wreckers have you contacted?

I happen to have several Rotators that were on a running Tractor...

Once you have given it your best shot on the internet to located used TEA-20 parts......

I could send you these Rotators .. you pay the cost of shipping..
The picture of the TEA-20 Head is for comparison only..
Bob..

 

[John Deere D]

I shall require a mailing address to verify the cost to ship Valve Rotators to you..

Bob...

 

[stableboy]

Bob thanks for the offer I tried to pm you my address to get an idea of mailing cost but it won't let me.

 

[John Deere D]

Here's my e-addy.......

[email protected]

If I can help out by sending you two or three Exhaust Valve rotators glad to be of assistance.....

What goes around comes around.......

Send me an e-mail on the above with your address, name and telephone number..

Bob....

 

[John Deere D]

(quoted from post at 19:35:11 04/17/21) Bob thanks for the serial number location. No mine does not have that. Also cant see any evidence of one in the past. Trying to upload some pics for some thoughts on my project tractor.
Tells me this

]Here's my e-addy.......
[email protected]

If I can help out by sending you two or three Exhaust Valve rotators glad to be of assistance.....

What goes around comes around.......

Send me an e-mail on the above with your address, name and telephone number..

Bob....