Ferguson Wiring Confirmation

[tekjr3]

Hello all,

I ve had some issues with my Ferguson tractor, which I believe was a short in the wiring system. Many of the electrical components were getting old, so I decided to replace them. I m looking for some assistance when it comes to the rewiring of this 12v system. I have attached a photo of my wiring diagram and was curious if anyone had any thoughts.

Thanks!

This post was edited by tekjr3 on 04/15/2023 at 09:35 am.

 

[Duner Wi]

This is copy from Motor manual.

 

[Ericp351]

I see some issues with your sketch- please confirm . 1- you show an electric oil press gauge, no sender, most use mechanical. 2.- You show a volt reg.,
external, & imply you are going with a GM Alt w/ internal. 3.Is starter switch is the factory interlock/ mechanical shifter switch, as on a TO 20, or the
in series interlock/ safety switch to the transfer case, as on a 35+??( This in implied by your depiction of Key Switch). In any event, you do not show
how your key switch will engage start solenoid (35) style, or control ignition (20) style, et cetera. Good news- if you make a good sketch of your
machine you willl understand same and have a cool keepsake for later troubleshooting. Feel free to add Alt Diode (stops Backfeed-cheap), a modern Fuse Link
for gen./alt., and-if you feel it don't make ya a sissy, a fuse for you lights. Lastly- I Trust others will tell ya to change to a volt meter with an Alt.,
Vs an OEM style Amp meter, as with a 12 Amp Gen set up. I like Amp meters, so to each his own... Good luck-rock on.

 

[tekjr3]

Eric, thanks for your comments. I received this tractor second hand and wanted to confirm the original conversion to 12 volt was done correctly.

1. I don t believe the oil pressure gauge is operational, and there is nothing currently going out of the gauge. I put in the drawing for potential future reference, but I am more concerned with getting the tractor running properly again, first.

2. The new alternator is the same model as the one I replaced. It requires an external regulator.

3. The starter switch is engaged by the shifter. I m not going to pretend I know all the terms you used. I m still new to tractor mechanics. Here is the replacement I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TD9HROQ?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

Again thanks for taking a look at this. Since I m spending so much money replacing components, I don t want to burn everything out if it s wired wrong and I try to start it up. I will likely need to have someone look at it before I try firing it up, anyway. I ve had a couple people look at it and couldn t figure out why it wouldn t start anymore, so I figured I d save some money doing what I could, and I ll probably need an expert to confirm.

Thanks!

 

[Ericp351]

You are most welcome. You may want to add a 1.5 +- Ohn resister to your 6v coil, or basic 12v coil (look for a dye-mark on it) to make your points last
longer after you get it going. Any Nappa can help-$4. . Ask for one for a 1980's Chrysler (single) if ya get a dolt. An OPTIONAL (again $4 Nappa ) fuse link
is a modern/ 1970 piece of wire to protect the main charge circuit in case of big melt down. It burns, not a random big melt. Think fuse. A DIODE blocks
back flow from your Alt when not running- think check valve. Your RUN/Start switch can be wired in series with your coil hot. Flip switch= cut power. I
assume it will now crank. Any volt meter, or even a test light can confirm hot to coil in run-mode. If OK, look under your Dist. Cap. Look for tight wires
and the points open+ close as the cam turns+ hits the rub-block. Lastly- if all checks and no luck+ tractor was sitting run a clean dollar bill between
contact points to clean them. A bit of oxide can ruin your day. The old pull a spark plug, lean it against block+ crank as ya look for a blue spark never
gets old.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

JMOR has wiring diagrams worth a look. I actually like the in-line amp gauge. Now if the alt can put out, say 100
amps, and the amp gauge is good for 60, what is the amp gauge going to do with the extra 40?
Poof?
I know. It will never happen. until the first time you start the tractor with a weak or dead battery and the
alternator gets told to, 'make juice now fast'.
It's just a little smoke.

 

[Jim.ME]

I would be hooking up a mechanical oil pressure gauge (with readings in pounds not just one showing colors or ranges), even if it is a temporary hook up, before trying to start it. If you don't have an oil pressure gauge, how will you know what, if any, oil pressure it has once you get it started? Monitoring oil pressure is part if knowing if it is operating properly in my opinion.

It wouldn't hurt to tell which model Ferguson you are working on, to get answers that might be specific to a given model.