wethomas-HT
Member
Hello,
I'm new, wanted to thank all the folks involved in this Forum. What a great resource.
I've been running old Yanmar tractors for most of my life and I've known them to be one of the best little machines out there, and they do keep going.
I recently purchased a 3110D, that has sat in a field for 6 years. At some point during that time the exhaust stack rotted and allowed water to enter thru the exhaust side of the engine.
The tractor has 1000hours on it (verified) and it sat because the poor guy that had it passed away (also verified). His family never did anything with it along with several other machines on the property.
I plan on restoring the machine and I've done a few of them, sold a few and kept others.
I've been able to free the engine, I've done a few revolutions. slowly, over the course of a day or two. I've cleaned the IP, injectors and I've pulled the pan to inspect the bearings that I could. All of the bearings look in good shape, as well as the crank. Some areas have minor corrosion. No babbit material is missing, no scratches etc. Plastigauge on all bearings that I could access) shows well with in allowable tolerance.
All fluids have been flushed and changed. Trans, front axle, etc., No evidence of water in any of the fluids except the engine oil.
Intake and exhaust valves are free now.
I would like to pre lube this engine with the pan off. My logic being; That if I can pre lube the engine bearings (crank, connecting rod, camshaft etc..), there is less of a possibility of a dry start scratching things up, and theres a good possibility that it will help flush any debris, free of the bearing surfaces prior to it running.
This may be overkill, but that's just the way I am.
My goal is to run the thing briefly, to check out the transmission, powershift, PTO, 4wd etc, just to gauge what kind of money I'm going to get into.
Could one of you guys detail the oil circuit in this engine?
If a pre lube is possible/practical; Where is the best place to connect to the block for the pre lube fitting (ie oil pressure sensor port, etc.)?
Is the engine oil filtered after the pump pressurizes it, prior to entering the engine passages or vise versa.
At the least, I'm going to rebuild the head and re sleeve, with new pistons, rings and conn rod bearings, but I would like to save going into the rotating assembly and cam bearings etc if I can.
Unsure if I can pull the sleeves with the crank in place though.
Why replace something that can be saved (provided everything is in spec).
Thanks,
Ted
I'm new, wanted to thank all the folks involved in this Forum. What a great resource.
I've been running old Yanmar tractors for most of my life and I've known them to be one of the best little machines out there, and they do keep going.
I recently purchased a 3110D, that has sat in a field for 6 years. At some point during that time the exhaust stack rotted and allowed water to enter thru the exhaust side of the engine.
The tractor has 1000hours on it (verified) and it sat because the poor guy that had it passed away (also verified). His family never did anything with it along with several other machines on the property.
I plan on restoring the machine and I've done a few of them, sold a few and kept others.
I've been able to free the engine, I've done a few revolutions. slowly, over the course of a day or two. I've cleaned the IP, injectors and I've pulled the pan to inspect the bearings that I could. All of the bearings look in good shape, as well as the crank. Some areas have minor corrosion. No babbit material is missing, no scratches etc. Plastigauge on all bearings that I could access) shows well with in allowable tolerance.
All fluids have been flushed and changed. Trans, front axle, etc., No evidence of water in any of the fluids except the engine oil.
Intake and exhaust valves are free now.
I would like to pre lube this engine with the pan off. My logic being; That if I can pre lube the engine bearings (crank, connecting rod, camshaft etc..), there is less of a possibility of a dry start scratching things up, and theres a good possibility that it will help flush any debris, free of the bearing surfaces prior to it running.
This may be overkill, but that's just the way I am.
My goal is to run the thing briefly, to check out the transmission, powershift, PTO, 4wd etc, just to gauge what kind of money I'm going to get into.
Could one of you guys detail the oil circuit in this engine?
If a pre lube is possible/practical; Where is the best place to connect to the block for the pre lube fitting (ie oil pressure sensor port, etc.)?
Is the engine oil filtered after the pump pressurizes it, prior to entering the engine passages or vise versa.
At the least, I'm going to rebuild the head and re sleeve, with new pistons, rings and conn rod bearings, but I would like to save going into the rotating assembly and cam bearings etc if I can.
Unsure if I can pull the sleeves with the crank in place though.
Why replace something that can be saved (provided everything is in spec).
Thanks,
Ted
