Final Drives / Fluid Change

[Tom Bond]

The stuff on the right is what is in my final drives, the stuff on the left is new UTF. Pretty close to the same viscosity but if it's actually gear oil in the drives and diffy, do I need to do any special flushing before I go to UTF in all the sumps? Or can I just let them all drain for a whole night and refill with the UTF? Also, why in the world would someone put on the fill plugs so tight in the drives I had to use a cheater bar on them to get them off? It's only a 1/2" plug!

 

[Greg1959]

Looks like a "Rorschach inkblot test" to me! LOL!

Greg

 

[Sean in PA]

If you're unsure of the history of the tractor, and you have the time and money available, it would be worth it to use souNdguy's "flush", which I believe is a ratio of something like 3 gallons of diesel fuel to 1 quart of ATF to one pint of rubbing alcohol. Add the mixture at the above ratios into the differential and the final drives until they are at their normal "full" level, close them up and drive it around for 15 minutes or so, then drain it out and fill with fresh UTF that meets the M2C134D specification. The diesel is a very light weight oil so it will keep things lubricated for the duration of the flush and help thin out any thick stuff that's in there, the ATF is very high detergent so it will help clean things up nice and the alcohol will help remove any moisture (water) that's in there by allowing it to go into suspension with the flush mixture.

 

[souNdguy]

sure would not hurt to run a lil diesel thru them, strain and pour thru a few times.


the check plugs on my 950 had to be heated and drilled out! same for the front pediastal plug. I had to grind it flat, drill and tap for another plug!

 

[Dean]

Use 90W or 85W140 in the final drives of a 4 cylinder row crop tractor.

I allowed mine to drain for days because I was in no hurry.

Dean

 

[NNP]

(quoted from post at 18:30:05 04/08/14) Use 90W or 85W140 in the final drives of a 4 cylinder row crop tractor.

I allowed mine to drain for days because I was in no hurry.

Dean

I'm with Dean.
changing oils that use heavy oils get drained at least overnight here.

And final drives, I always use heavy oil.
No pumps, wet brakes, pto clutches back there, just big ol noisy gears under a big strain. Some brands call for 140 at least back there and on some old ones we even add some cans of STP to that to keep em quiet.
(yes, they do get a bit hard to push around in a frozen shop )
I just dropped the pans on the finals of an ancient AC, and the oil was dirty, but not water contaminated, and was as thick as molasses. All gears and bearings were in very good shape.