Final update on my WD hubs! Success!

Will Herring

Well-known Member
If you have been following my WD hubs saga, here is my final update... As you may know, I ordered new hubs because my old ones were shot. Added new races. Added new bearings. New grease. The works. But still had some play that was giving me grief.

Had a lot of nasty wear on my bearing spacer due to the side to side pounding of the hubs along with stuff spinning that shouldn't be... So a buddy of mine made me a small spacer on his lathe to take up the slop and to keep it so the hubcap wouldn't touch the spindle when re-assembled (as it was scarily close, especially on one side). It's nice because the bearing spacer is essentially 1.500" ID and 2.000" OD, so I was able to find some shim stock that was close as a starting spot.

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I used my bearing race installer to install the cup washer seal the proper direction this time.

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Everything nicely repacked, tightened down, cotter pinned. Look at that freshly painted hub, I'm sure that will never look this shiny again lol.

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After a six hour marathon session this afternoon, I got both sides put back together and got her back out with the mower for the first time in a year! Feels fantastic to finally have gotten this issue knocked out, and the front end is super solid now and doesn't slide all over while driving. It feels entirely different driving now than it ever has; more responsive and easier to hold straight!

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Oh, and I put a hubcap off a WC on it to replace that old brazed one that had been sliced through before I got it (probably before I was born honestly).

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Thanks for the assistance along the way everybody. It's been quite a learning experience and an adventure!
 
rustred -- Haha. When I took them apart, they had old nails in them. I bought a multi-pack of replacement cotter pins, that one was the closest.

showcrop -- Hmmm... Didn't think about checking that, but it is possible. Definitely wasn't getting the right tightness before adding the shim.

Janicholson -- Thanks! And thanks for all the advice in the previous threads, by the way, it was very helpful. I like the refreshed paint but it was rattle can and it definitely didn't harden up like I wanted. Glad to have a small test spot here, so I can know I need to do it better next time.
 
I was meaning that the cotter pin should have had a 90 degree turn for proper fitting in a castle nut. cotter pin head fits into the slot.
 
(quoted from post at 11:25:12 09/08/19) I was meaning that the cotter pin should have had a 90 degree turn for proper fitting in a castle nut. cotter pin head fits into the slot.

Ahhh, that. Yeah, I put it in the wrong way because I wanted the legs to curl up around the castle nut and ensure they didn't touch the hub cap. Didn't even think about it not being in the slot! Whoops.
 
Showcrop: I bet that he was having the spindle stick out so far that the dust cap would not go on correctly. IF you have a worn spindle the bearing is tight further back on the spindle. I have had to shim them like he has. I also have changed to a deeper dust cap if possible.
 
(quoted from post at 13:59:53 09/08/19) Showcrop: I bet that he was having the spindle stick out so far that the dust cap would not go on correctly. IF you have a worn spindle the bearing is tight further back on the spindle. I have had to shim them like he has. I also have changed to a deeper dust cap if possible.

I think this was my problem. I have a lot of nasty wear on the spindle on one side, and you can see where it banged against the cotter key (or in my case, a nail...). My original dust cap on that side was a brazed up thing that happened after I assume the spindle cut thru the cap (I figure a good... 30-40 years ago).

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Unfortunately the hubs were not repaired at that time... That I can tell. Probably new just bearings were installed and repacked with grease, given the shape of the races.
 

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