Finally working on Dad's 2N

[Kevin Godshall]

I posted results of finally getting around to working on Dad"s 2N on the original post, but for some reason, it"s not getting bumped to the front.

Originally, the deal is, Dad"s 2N has quit, won"t start, no spark at the plugs. 6V battery was hooked up negative ground and was dead. Dad was jumping the starter with no luck. I got some good advice here and after 2 months delay, finally got around to taking a look. Here is what I posted yesterday:

OK, I know it"s been awhile, the weather got cold and the wood shop got busy, but today I finally got to look at Dad"s 2N first hand.

I pulled the hood off and got an ugly look at what I"m dealing with. The wiring is originally and bare in a lot of places. Lots of grease and dirt buildup.

First job was to dump the bad battery and buy a new one (6V). I put it in and hooked it up for a positive ground. Turned on the key and bumped the starter. Turned over without a problem (not like my Fergie with a 12V set up, but sufficient I think).

The generator only has 1 wire, so I wasn"t sure how to re-polarize it (???).

Pulled a plug and rolled her over again, nothing there. Began testing voltage at various places (I"m not the world"s greatest electrician....) The starter was only getting a bit over 4 volts, so I"m going to get a new grounding strap and find a better location to put it.

Next, I tested across the resistor that is under the hood. Readings were the same on both ends. Is this right?

Directly under the gas tank is a little can looking thing (cut out assembly?). It showed 6V on bottom, nothing on top (??) Also, the resistor behind the dash showed hot on the bottom but nothing on the outfeed side (I checked the ignition switch and it is operating correctly).

Bruce, I forgot to take a copy of your instructions about the coil and distributor with me, so I will have to make sure to do that on the next trip. Perhaps that is exactly what I am missing.

Thanks to all for input so far. Please feel free to continue to help me thru this. I work on my 53 Fergie (12V neg ground) a lot, but this 6V pos ground is alien territory to me.

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I"m really interested in finding out what that little can thingy is and what it does. How do I test it to make sure it"s functioning properly?

Last night I had a good conversation with a heavy equipment mechanic and feel pretty good after an indepth discussion of electric flow to the coil (which I have thankfully) and the process from there. (I really wish now I would have remembered to take Bruce"s input with me. I would probably be writing now that I plowed 40 acres yesterday afternoon!)

 

[Tom N MS]

Round can is the cutout..has contacts inside that close when the key is in so the battery will charge..Turn the key off and the contacts open so the battery don't drain...here is a link/discussion
Untitled URL Link

 

[Dell (WA)]

Kevin.......you write......"Next, I tested across the resistor that is under the hood. Readings were the same on both ends. Is this right?......Also, the resistor behind the dash showed hot on the bottom but nothing on the outfeed side (I checked the ignition switch and it is operating correctly)"......uh? OUTFEED side should show about 6-volts (iff'n points open) and about 3-volts iff'n points closed. Iff'n 0-volts the "infamous ballast resistor" is OPEN and BAD. This is incompatible with yer statement about about testing the resistor and readings were same on both ends.

You write......"Directly under the gas tank is a little can looking thing (cut out assembly?). It showed 6V on bottom, nothing on top (??)"......uh, that is yer 2-terminal roundcan cut-out and it needs to be "polarized" to match yer new positive battery ground....otherwize you will NEVER gitt'chur genny to charge yer battery. Simply "arc-spark" the two terminals together, ignition OFF. You can "polarize" as many times and as often times as it takes to feel warm and fuzzy ...er... charged. Do it again!!! ......Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

 

[Kevin Godshall]

Thanks Dell

Can I determine the function of the ballistic resistor by checking the ammeter? Since my grounding strap is very suspect, I'm kinda leery about some of the readings I may have taken. Running it thru my head last night, I know initially I used the battery terminal for ground and then check for voltage at different spots. When I used the frame or solid metal, my readings went to the nutso side.

I know for a fact I read hot off of the resistor and to the top of the coil. (Can't say for sure right now how much voltage was there, but readings were the same on both ends).

Picked up some wiring and connectors today, gonna try to get back over there early next week.

Thanks again.

 

[Danny in CO]

Kevin,

Most of what you need is probably in Bruce's list. However, here is how I would start checking.

Run a wire directly from the negative side of the battery to the top of the coil. Take a plug wire off and check for a spark. If you get a spark, then the problem is in the wiring from the battery to the coil. Could be the switch, ballast resistor, bad wires, connections, etc. If it starts, DON'T run it long as you will fry your coil. If no spark, check points and set at .0015" and polish the contacts with a dollar bill. Also make sure the spring on the bottom of the coil is making good contact inside the distributor (may need to streach it some). Check the voltage at the top of the coil with the switch on. You should get either battery voltage with the points open or about 3 - 3.5 volts with the points closed. If the voltage is much below 3 volts, the problem is back towards the battery. Could be bad connections or corrosion inside the wires.

Post back with results and we can go futher.

Good luck,
Danny

 

[Kevin Godshall]

Thank you muchly. I'm hoping to get back to it either tomorrow or early next week, AND I would rather only buy parts I need, rather than be swapping this and that hoping something eventually works.

As soon as I get progress (good or bad) I will report it and let you know.

 

[Dell (WA)]

Kevin........you ask....."Can I determine the function of the ballistic resistor by checking the ammeter?".......the "infamous ballast resistor" is like a litebulb, it either works or it don't. How do you test a litebulb??? Turn on the switch, eh? Yes, the ammeter can tell you yer ballast resistor is good, (draws about 3-amps) ...or... BAD (draws NO amps) when you turn yer ignition switch on. Simple, eh?

You write......"I know initially I used the battery terminal for ground and then check for voltage at different spots. When I used the frame or solid metal, my readings went to the nutso side".......that tell me yer flatbraid ground strap connections are corroded and need to be "clean, brite'n'tite". I recommend replacing yer flatbraid ground strap with NEW 11"-long flatbraid grounded to one of yer steering gearbox attach bolts, NOT sheetmetal. Why a new flatbraid? 'cuz the molded lead clamp gitts internal corrosion that can NOT be fixed. New 11"-flatbraid cable. $10 (cheap)

You write......."I know for a fact I read hot off of the resistor and to the top of the coil. (Can't say for sure right now how much voltage was there, but readings were the same on both ends).......that is GOOD. Its the LAW, Kirchhoff's Law. That also means yer "infamous ballast resistor" is GOOD too. Such a deal, eh? .......Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

 

[Kevin Godshall]

OK Update time......

Spent 3 hours on tractor today (some was spent talking with Dad, but we had a hand on the tractor nonetheless). Good news and not so good news....

The not so good news: didn't get tractor running. No further details needed

The good news: followed lots of advice given here and in short order had good white/blue spark from spark plugs. Found a splice in wire going to resistor under hood that was loose (repaired) and then found that the wire on top of the coil was loose (tightened). Got excited after seeing spark right off the bat.

Next, tried to get her to fire up. Cranked her over a few times and boy, did she sound a few times like she was gonna go! Possible issue: every time she coughed, there was a blowback out of the carb (up thru the air intake tube). Now, when this happened on my Fergie, it was a broken valve spring. Am I going thru this process again?

Dell, you are right, my grounding strap needs replacement, and for that matter, I'm gonna do the whole wiring harness. Checking post to post on battery was 6V. Checking post to cylinder head was already down to 5V. Can only get worse from there.

Question came up during the cranking attempts. Dad wanted to hook up his 12V battery booster to jump the starter. (Previously he did this all the time to start the tractor, i.e. last spring). Being 6V positive ground and just having put $60 into a new battery, I didn't want to take a connecting the leads to the wrong spot and frying something. Do we put the + to the starter stud and the - to the frame? Won't this hurt the battery?

Thanks to all for the inputs so far. We are getting closer. Please feel free to toss your comments this way.