first (real) tractor - 1650 Oliver

[BeeBazaar]

I've been looking for awhile for a bigger tractor. I have a ferg TO20 that just don't have enough. no hydraulics. metal seat... I was debating a MM M602 (that I still want, just working on the guy) but I settled on this 1650. 4500 hrs. diesel. Its a 1966, so I know it had the indirect injection. I plan on plowing 4 acres this fall and possibly expanding in the future. I'm had a few questions and my reproduction manual hasn't arrived yet.

are they all 540, but some are 1000 pto? is there a chance I bought something that is only 1000?

I also bought a 1610 loader. It isn't installed, I cant find any mounting instructions online. is it pretty straight forward?

I have the older 1650. indirect. How hard is it to get started in the winter? I have a single 12v battery. It also has a heater plug. should I install another 12v (in parallel) to aid in starting?

How many fluids and filters are there? I want to change everything because I have no idea how old any of it is.

The guy i bought it off of said something about a valve for the hydraulics. A small screw under the seat on the right side. can someone explain this to me? one of the remotes had 1 of the lines plugged and he seemed to coordinate the screw with it, but remotes are all new to me.....

is a 4 bottom plow a good choice? I have clay soil. the field has not been worked in yrs short of me discing it last year. But the ferg didn't really chop it up too deep.

I'm sure Ill have more lol I just hope the 1650 is as good as the reputation!!

Phil

 

[Cash4Toys]

Nice looking 1650. Not sure where you are at, or what your soils are, but around here you would never pull that 4 bottom, well maybe 4-14's in loose ground, grain or bean stubble. 1655's around here was a 3-16's tractor, and if you were plowing Alfalfa down, that was slow going. (South Central Minnesota)
If you go on the Massey-Ferguson web site, in the technical part of it, you can download operators and service manuals for the tractor and I just looked and the 1610 op's manual is there as well, and they are not that much money either, depending on which format you want. You can order paper if you wish as well, but why? You can download these manuals anytime, or at least I have anyway, no waiting, like right now if you want.
Also on the MF site, you can view the parts books, as a guest user, or get a dealer to give you access and a password.
Don't know much about the 1650 as far as PTO, but my guess is if you have 1000, the 540 should be there as well, but, someone else can speak better on that.

 

[greg oliver]

Phil, Make sure you grab the spacers for in between the
loader frame and tractor frame. You can make them but easier
if you got them. Trans filter under the floor board on the left
side as you sit in the seat. That one gets missed a lot. Funny
your 1650 has the glass fuel filter make sure you get the right
one. My neighbor dropped a 1655 for me to toy with and has
the other style fuel filters. Your Hydra- Power Drive filter is
visible in the photo under the fuel tank. Engine oil filter is in
the can by the alternator.

 

[greg oliver]

Phil, I forgot hydraulic filter is in the housing between your legs as you sit in the seat. That can be a bear to get off I broke a socket trying to get that housing off. If I had an impact it probably would of helped.

 

[BeeBazaar]

Thanks!

I'm in SW ohio

So 6 filters? thats alot lol
The guy says he thinks the fuel filter is off a JD of some sort.

Ill check out the MF website for the manuals

 

[BeeBazaar]

This has a normal air filter also correct? No oil bath?

 

[rrlund]

Go to agcopartsbooks dot com.

I had to laugh when you said you "settled" on the Oliver. You made the right choice.

 

[BeeBazaar]

haha maybe settled wasn't the right choice of words. I def agree. Really the only decision was the 1850 or the 1650. I just think the 1850 was too big for my needs. Really the MM was more of a fixer upper, I just think they look mean Prob make a good back up tho if i had to have it

 

[LarryH]

good lookin rig we use one just like it to farm with ----get a 3 b mounted plow and a owners manual as to parts we have a building and acres if you need them---call me at 270-528-2134 7-4 cst ask for larry

 

[LarryH]

forgot to tell you a lot of others wish this was their 1st real tractor LOL

 

[r.w.b.]

540 shaft is diffrent length than 1000 shaft if
its changeable.1 goes into another gear on pto
assembly. Your fenders are from a diffrent
vintage oliver. I had 1 like it.litterally wore
it out.was big tractor on 800 acres plus custom
baled hay,custom no tilled too. Was a good
tractor. We got clay gumbo.i pulled 4-14" mounted
plow 10 " deep in 3rd hi in hydrapower.when in
better soil 4th high.was not bad on fuel
either.but kinda balky starting in winter

 

[BeeBazaar]

Thanks all.

The fenders are off a 1750 if i recall he said. At one poing there was a cab that was removed. Which is fine by me to be honest. Im not sure if im concerned with the fenders of not lol

So i got my manual today so i got some reading to do!

Thanks for the offer Larry, that area codd is close. I might havd to call you at sobd point

 

[BeeBazaar]

(quoted from post at 07:56:41 08/31/19) Phil, Make sure you grab the spacers for in between the
loader frame and tractor frame. You can make them but easier
if you got them. Trans filter under the floor board on the left
side as you sit in the seat. That one gets missed a lot. Funny
your 1650 has the glass fuel filter make sure you get the right
one. My neighbor dropped a 1655 for me to toy with and has
the other style fuel filters. Your Hydra- Power Drive filter is
visible in the photo under the fuel tank. Engine oil filter is in
the can by the alternator.

What do these spacers look like? Like the approx size i guess. I dont see anything on google

 

[greg oliver]

Got a couple pictures . My 1555 had an identical glass fuel
filter when my dad bought the tractor brand new in 1973.
Make sure you get the right filter some look similar but as not
the same.

 

[BeeBazaar]

thanks Greg! what book is that out of?

Ill check that fitler, maybe it was easily converted to a later model olivers, but I think I read a 66 had the 2 canisters.

In my manual, there seems to be, for each gear, a direct , hydra-power, creeper, over & under. that's 30 speeds. or am I missing something. also in the picture it looks like there is a lever I don't remember. When I drove it when I looked at it, there was 6 forward and 2 revers. and then the guy said there was a button to put it in high or lo. that's it, 12 speeds forward, 2 reverse. He also said that the button (maybe more of a cable you push and pull?) can be hit on the fly at any time, is this correct?

It was hard enough to find the gears with what looked like 3 neutral positions, but then is there really 5 choices per gear?

 

[J. Schwiebert]

You have 2 choices for each gear, direct drive and under drive. On your PTO don't be pulling that shaft out IF you do not have a dual speed unit. The rear end oil will run out. The PTO was an option no matter if it was a 540. a 1000 or a dual speed unit!. We sold between 40-50 1650 tractors, only ONE had the dual speed unit and we had to install it after he had the tractor over a year. Questions? Send me an e-mail. JU.

 

[BeeBazaar]

what are all those other options like the creeper and the hydra? Can I switch between direct and under on the fly? Is that what the little button/cable is for?

 

[J. Schwiebert]

If you have a Hydra=power which you do you can not have a creeper drive because it is located the same place. Yes you can shift on the go. That is what the button is for. More questions?

 

[r.w.b.]

If going down a hill keep it in direct not low on
hydra power .it will coast or freewheel and ruin
the sprague clutch. And if pulling a heavy load
could be disasterous.

 

[r.w.b.]

Pull knob up it reduces speed in the gear its in
by something like 15 percent raisng torque
up.down is direct. But remember what i told you
dont let it coast when on road with knob pulled
out.the less you use hydra power the longer it
lasts too

 

[BeeBazaar]

Good to know!! Im all flat out here tho lol but still, neber know where you might take it. Id heard that going down hills like that in MM's was bad too

 

[BeeBazaar]

Does just the hydra power go out from use or all ability to drive?

 

[greg oliver]

I have this manual for a 1610.

 

[BeeBazaar]

(quoted from post at 17:30:30 09/01/19) I have this manual for a 1610.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto35324.jpg">

looks like a good book to have. Ill pick one up on ebay

 

[greg oliver]

Phil, I find pulling Hydra- Power lever helps when shifting
gears. Another thing if you don?t have the loader on yet I
would make sure your brakes are working good . Easier to
work on brakes with the loader frame not in the way.

 

[BeeBazaar]

(quoted from post at 07:53:57 09/02/19) Phil, I find pulling Hydra- Power lever helps when shifting
gears. Another thing if you don?t have the loader on yet I
would make sure your brakes are working good . Easier to
work on brakes with the loader frame not in the way.

you put the loader on by yourself? how long does it take?

 

[gary66]

think I got mine off ebay...It isn't a difficult job hooking it up to the tractor, but it won't be light. The hydroponics are the confusing thing. I see how mine is, couldn't tell you why and all the other holes with plugs would make it very confusing if I didn't know were to hook things up.

I've been reading posts here for a while, still confuses me, but I haven't had to do anything. You'll learn since you do.

Congrats on the tractor.

 

[gary66]

hydraulics .

 

[greg oliver]

Phil, A couple pictures front pad mount for the 1610 loader.
Also notice above brake housing the rear end trans filter. I put
a loader off a 1650 TLB on my 1555. Had to fabricate new
front mounts and run some new hoses. It was to heavy for the
wide front so ended up removing it.

 

[BeeBazaar]

great info Guys I appreciate it! I cant wait for it to be delivered lol

I found a 3b semi mount plow I might go look at. Ive never done any plowing before though and I cant wait to play

 

[jmcarlic]

1650 was my first "real" tractor as well! I also had a loader on mine. Do yourself a favor and spend the time and money plumbing the loader into an external spool valve (with float) hooked to the tractor's Power Beyond. I know I've got a picture somewhere how to hook it up, but you can find it searching in this forum as well. The Oliver 00/50 series hydraulics, though having great intentions for safety, were not ideal for loader use. And single-acting cylinders are also a bit of a challenge with them.

Congratulations on your new tractor! Let us know if you have more questions!

 

[BeeBazaar]

i read somewhere if I use a plow I might need weights on the tractor? any truth to this? A local(ish) guy has oliver rear wheel weights that will fit the 1650 for $20 a pop. 150 lbs ea if I recall. he has 14 of them. I might pick up 4. Im trying to talk him into selling some front stack weights too. even if I dotn need them, for 80 bux, might be a good thing to have the weights around

 

[greg oliver]

Phil, If you can get them that cheap you better grab them. You
need a starter weight for the front I believe. My rear Oliver
weights I don?t think are #150 . Local pullers use heavy duty
all thread instead of bolts just slide the weights on.

 

[Traditional Farmer]

I have an early 1650 diesel and if you want an easy start in cold weather you need a block heater to plug in to warm it up.Also if your loader has one way cylinders I'd find some 2 way
cylinders for it.On my 1550 diesel I added a 4 spool valve and plumbed it into the Power Beyond a huge improvement over the original Oliver remotes plus I still have those to use if I need them.The valve,hoses and fittings ran about $600 great upgrade.

 

[r.w.b.]

Yes bad on minnie mo too

 

[BeeBazaar]

It has a heater so hopefully im good. I have a blade with feet so its my plan for snow now...

Ill look into the valves, but i honestly dont k ow how thses 2 and 4 spool valves work. But ll figure it out

 

[Married2Allis]

That's a nice 1650. I have a '67 with the newer injection. For about $20 you can find out exactly what options it had by contacting FLoyd County museum in Iowa (floydcountymuseum.org). Most did not have the dual 540/1000 PTO.

When it's fully charged mine will start down to about 50 degrees. Below that I use a 1000w block heater. Just has one group 31 battery and a gear reduction starter.

 

[BeeBazaar]

(quoted from post at 14:26:34 09/06/19) That's a nice 1650. I have a '67 with the newer injection. For about $20 you can find out exactly what options it had by contacting FLoyd County museum in Iowa (floydcountymuseum.org). Most did not have the dual 540/1000 PTO.

When it's fully charged mine will start down to about 50 degrees. Below that I use a 1000w block heater. Just has one group 31 battery and a gear reduction starter.

that almost like buying a copy of the original window sticker of you will?

 

[Married2Allis]

(quoted from post at 04:58:37 09/07/19)
that almost like buying a copy of the original window sticker of you will?

They send you a packet with a copy of the 'build card' which is an IBM punched card with the option codes on it, and copies of documents that describe the codes and other available options -- interesting if you care about that stuff ... like PTO type, cast or steel wheels, trans type, rear type, draft control type, etc. And you find out where the tractor was shipped. Mine was New York Mills, NY. So it was likely sold by some dealer nearby, but does not list dealer. Nice to have for $20.

 

[BeeBazaar]

For 20 bux that would be cool to have

 

[BeeBazaar]

the eagle has landed!

My loader did have the spacers etc.
are the keys to these all the same? id like to maybe get a spare if possible....

 

[BeeBazaar]

i tried to upload a picture but it didn't post...