First Reduction Gear Cover

[mkIV]

I went out to start my 1952 model B and when I tried to put it in gear, the clutch wouldn't stop spinning. I have noticed that it has been leaking from the first reduction gear cover, but now it's become a problem. I have the shop manual, and I can see a breakdown of the cover, but it doesn't tell me what I need to do in order to remove it. The brake assembly seems to be in the way, do I need to remove that? How much of the clutch do I need to pull apart? I have some questions. I posted some pictures so you can see.

Thanks,

Jed

 

[mkIV]

(quoted from post at 13:51:50 01/07/21) I went out to start my 1952 model B and when I tried to put it in gear, the clutch wouldn't stop spinning. I have noticed that it has been leaking from the first reduction gear cover, but now it's become a problem. I have the shop manual, and I can see a breakdown of the cover, but it doesn't tell me what I need to do in order to remove it. The brake assembly seems to be in the way, do I need to remove that? How much of the clutch do I need to pull apart? I have some questions. I posted some pictures so you can see.

Thanks,

Jed

 

[RLA]

You must remove the whole clutch & driver with clutch disengaged remove the yoke that comes out the frt of the cover. 2 bolt cap behind the pulley large nut with a cotter key.. Rh Brake asy needs to come off. The clutch handle can stay on the cover. Clutch driver is timed to the crank with a V Mark & needs to be reinstalled same place. Having a small leak isn't the reason why the pulley won't stop. no doubt rusted up inside & needs cleaned & freed up. The driver has 2 threaded holes & for a puller, it should be really tight....

 

[RLA]

Also I think there is a spring upper rh corner of the cover near the oil cap, it pre loads the cam shaft & keep it in place, the spring will fall out & needs to be reinstalled when assembled....

 

[Loosehandle]

Problem is likely in the pulley and
clutch, check first reduction gear for
slop and wobble as soon as pulley is
off. I don't see much leaking by my
standards lol....

 

[Dan in Ohio]

" I have noticed that it has been leaking from the first reduction gear cover", that is fortuitous, you need to focus on the
clutch. Has your pulley brake been working OK as the pulley does not show much wear from the pulley brake pad. I agree with the
others about looking at the clutch. If the problem came on suddenly then I'd look for something being disconnected and start at
the pulley brake.

 

[mkIV]

(quoted from post at 16:16:29 01/07/21) " I have noticed that it has been leaking from the first reduction gear cover", that is fortuitous, you need to focus on the
clutch. Has your pulley brake been working OK as the pulley does not show much wear from the pulley brake pad. I agree with the
others about looking at the clutch. If the problem came on suddenly then I'd look for something being disconnected and start at
the pulley brake.

Got it
Thank you guys. Ill pull the clutch cover off tomorrow and see what I find.

 

[RLA]

once you get the cover off & the 3 adjustment nuts off along with the outer plate, should have a floating clutch disc. Start the nuts back
on the adjust bolts & take a pair vice grips clamp it on the nut & move it in & out many times. Oil doesnt do you much good cause slipage
later on. Do each bolt use a blow gun clean it all out. Make sure trhe bolts move in & out freely. Should have around 1/2" travel. There is
another clutch disc behind the driver, make sure you have NO broken clutch disc's. If you find pieces you must pull the driver off & replace
with new parts.

 

[Pete in MD]

Jed,

I think your problem with the pulley not stopping and not being able to put your tractor into gear is
caused by the pulley brake being out of adjustment. Your first picture is what makes me say this.

With the engine at a slow idle, hold the clutch lever back in the brake position and turn the brake pulley
adjusting screw "in" until the pulley stops turning. Then tighten the jam nut.

You said you have a manual. Is it JD SM-2004 ?

 

[mkIV]

I have the JD-4 shop manual.

I went out fully prepared to turn the adjuster screw, or even have to disassemble the clutch assembly, but when I started it up the clutch worked fine. After about 2 minutes of driving the tractor in 3rd gear I started getting a faint smell of clutch and if felt as if the clutch wasn't grabbing to it's full potential like it could possibly be slipping. Maybe it was just me. I don't know. I'm kind of afraid of driving this thing because I don't want to break stuff. But at the same time, it's fun to hook up my utility trailer and pull my boys around on it.

The backstory of this tractor is that my grandpa and his brother bought this tractor brand new back in '53 to work their fields. It was used heavily, but then sat for about 30 years. My grandpa rebuilt it in '95. Then it sat again for about 15 years until about 3 years ago when my grandpa did another rebuild on it, this time sandblasting and painting it also. He delivered it to me about 2 years ago. I've asked him some questions and he seems to have forgot just about everything and can't really answer any questions I have. So here I am, hanging out with you guys.

If this were my first gen mustang, I would have no problems. I know they are from the same era, and they are essentially the same mechanical knowledge, it's just a different layout. I was rebuilding my mustang engine (289) and found bad head gaskets, so I was just going to put some edelbrock heads on it. But then I got a hold of a '89 roller block for free. Then I got some AFR heads. Then I found an eagle 347 stroker kit for next to nothing. And here I am with a completely one off, custom built 347 stroker that's about to put down 420 horsepower on the dyno (the engine is built, but the dyno owner's family came down with nnalert)

The thing is that I have seen car/truck engines disassembled. I have now built one from scratch. I just have never seen tractor gearbox/engine layouts like this.
Last year I ran over a nail and didn't even know that the tires had tubes in them, so there I was trying to run a plug in. :roll:
I eventually figured it out, but it took me way too long.

Ok, so I have some questions because I want to learn;

The first gear reduction area is for the engine oil AND clutch oil, right?
Rotella 15w-40 should be fine?
7 quarts?
I'll pull the check plug to see if the level is correct.

I wish one of you guys was close to southern Louisiana so you could show me around this tractor. I like it and respect it, I also don't want to cause preventable damage to it.

 

[Pete in MD]

Jed,

In your post below you said ... "The first gear reduction area is for the engine oil AND clutch oil, right?"

There is NO oil in the clutch.

 

[mkIV]

(quoted from post at 21:28:22 01/08/21) Jed,

In your post below you said ... "The first gear reduction area is for the engine oil AND clutch oil, right?"

There is NO oil in the clutch.

Very well then
Thank you sir

 

[thdrduck]

You should feel a "snap" when you engage and clutch, that is some of the parts going over center. If it just feels smooth or mushy, you need to adjust it. Easy to do, check your manual. As far as engine oil goes, I like 10w30 or 20w30 provided the rings are good and she holds good oil pressure, if not, take it up a notch. Have fun with your B, great little hayride tractors.

 

[55deere70]

After you remove the clutch cover, you will see 3 castle nuts with cotter pins. Remove the cotter pins, and turn each nut one flat at a time until you get a good "snap" when you engage and disengage the clutch.