First Tractor Choice - Which One?

[tech]

Hi,

I am about to buy my first tractor for a small retirement farm, which I am also buying. I have researched and found two tractors that interests me. Price wise they are about the same. I am not geographically close enough to inspect, but photos I have spent some time with.They are:

1.. Ford 640 or 650; 30hp gasoline, mostly original, non running but engine not frozen. has a few farming implements that look rough, which includes what appears to be an original brush hog

2.. IH 240; 40hp gasoline, has been converted to 12vDC, has non working bucket and working 3 point hitch- no implements

Which of these would you buy and why?

 

[sunbeam]

I just finished a 340 IHC parts are pricey

 

[UPFord]

Welcome to YT.
My first choice would be Fords of any vintage, large number of machines out there, lots of aftermarket parts available at reasonable cost. You might want to keep watching Craigslist in your area for better, running tractors in your price range. Important to be close enough to inspect before buying. Depending on your mechanical skills, buying a non-running or needs-work tractor can consume a lot of your time and money. Do you want the tractor to work on your farm, or do you want to spend your time working on a tractor. Good luck with your search.

That said, Ford 2 wheel drive 1950's to 1970's tractors can do great work for you. It doesn't take a mega-dollar new 4x4 diesel compact tractor. In my Craigslist, I often see people selling late model compact 4x4 tractors with a bunch of implements for $25,000 up to $50,000. Expensive toys. My Ford is a 1989 445C Industrial 2wd tractor with 4000 lb. loader, 3-point, PTO, diesel, and 8-speed shuttle trans. Paid $6500 for it with ~2000 hours on it.

 

[Ultradog MN]

If you come on a Ford board you're not going to get many recommendations for a SOB (some other brand).
Also, without giving us any clue about the price of the two tractors we can't do much to determine relative value.
How are the tires on them?
How does the tin, paint and general aspect of the tractors appear?
And a 640 with a 4 speed will be worth less than a 650 with a 5 speed.
What implements come with it?
What options - remote hyd valves? Power steering?
Is the Ford sitting in a shed protected from the elements or laying in a hedgerow with 4 flat tires? How long has it been since it ran?
Lastly, what do you plan to do with the tractor and how good are your wrenching skills?
Sorry I'm not much help but if you can answer some of my questions others here can be.
Welcome to the board btw, we love our Fords here and will do our utmost to help you find a good one at a reasonable price.

 

[Tequila]

Where are you located. Both of those units sound like a large amount of time and work and $.

 

[tracto-man]

If you could tell us a general area of where you are we could give ya a better idea of what their worth. And prices are on them now? A 641 can be had in decent running condition for $2000-$3000 here in MI, and if you get lucky like me you can watch craigslist every day for a month or 2 and find a better tractor at a good price.

Anyway, I would go with ford, a non working bucket can be a real pain. Even just for loafing on a trailer before it gets fixed or taken off. As stated all ready, 650 is probly better then a 640.

 

[Fordfarmer]

My handle should tell you which one I'd recommend. Besides what the others have said, I think you need to double check the h.p. rating of the IH. The Nebraska test put them at 30 pto h.p., which is actually 2h.p. less than a 600 series Ford. Could be you have a flywheel rating on the IH.

 

[tech]

Thank you for the replies! Yes, I knew that some might be biased when I posed this query.

Both tractors are in disrepair mechanically and body, but that does not bother me. Maintenance is something I've lived by. Most every vehicle I owned has achieved 250k miles easily, including my E320

The sheet metal on which ever I choose will be straightened, metal repaired and powder coated for longer life as this will be my only tractor. I plan on Cadmium plating , then polishing many of the small parts to protect them vs just letting them oxidize.

It is cheaper to repair and maintain that it is to replace.

Also I'll start running synthetics for oils for protection and reduced friction. Heck, I will convert the ignition to electronic, using automotive components of the mid 1970s which are plentiful and cheap.

Also I'll add a digital dash so that I can monitor more functions such as coolant & oil temp, engine performance feedback, digital tach, crank speed, hydraulic pressures, etc - all of this is easy and cheap to install, but provides early detection of problems.

The current Ford owner is selling from an estate and did not know which model, my research brought me to conclude that is is either a 640 or 650. It has a brush hog, pond bucket, small disc, 2 fork plow and a road bucket

I will need a post hole digger for fencing, a bucket, and a back hoe for some irrigation, pond construction, etc.

I'm leaning toward the IH 240 because it has more actual engine power for some jobs I will do with the bucket such as terracing. Attachments for the IH seem easier to locate than the Ford or maybe I just don't know where to look.

The data I am using comes from a website called tractordata.com The area I am relocating to is the corner of Va, Ky, Tn, Nc

 

[Ultradog MN]

A couple of thoughts here:
If you go on the Ford N Series board you'll see a lot of guys buy a $1500 N and then start restoring it. Next thing you know they've rebuilt the engine, put new tires, paint, clutch, etc in it and have $5K+ into a tractor that Might bring $3.5K on a good day.
My advice is to start with a better tractor in the first place.
For $5K you can buy yourself a pretty nice Ford 3600 that will have 8 speed tranny, live pto, power steering, differential lock, a few more ponies (37-38) and is a all round better machine than a 640 or 650 - neither of which have live pto and likely wont have PS. And it will still need some tinkering - shouldn't need anything major - if you enjoy that sort of thing.
A guy can be penny wise and pound foolish on these things pretty easily.
As for the IH; I know little about those, but doubt that parts - new and used will be as cheap or ubiquitous as they are for most of the Fords.
You might ask on the IH/Farmall board here on this site and see what those friendly, helpful fellows have to say about them.

 

[Destroked 450]

You need to look your data over again. 240 is listed as 40 gross hp, 30.8 belt hp. 640 is not listed for gross hp but tested at 31 belt hp and advertised as 30.1 belt hp, so basically they are equal in power output.
As for attachments Ford standardized the three point lift attachment system that is used on all modern tractors today.
Any piece of equipment with category 1 hitch will work on the 640 no matter what brand it is. Not much equipment made for the IH fast hitch today if any.
640 will have a four speed transmission with the shifter mounted to the right of center on the transmission cover, 650 will have a five speed trans with the shifter mounted closer to the left side of the transmission.
Like others I'm a bit biased on my favorite brand of tractor, having farmed with Fords for over 50 years I know most every part on them and find them to be easy to repair and maintain compared to some other brands, but the next guy with a IH, JD or other brand will most likely say the same thing.

The area your relocating to is quite hilly and if possible I recommend looking at a little newer model tractor with good brakes and some type of live or independent pto system, power steering is also nice if you plan on having a loader.
Check around to see what dealer brands are in the area for parts support, no matter what brand it is if the nearest dealer is a hundred miles away going after parts for a minor repair will soon get old.

In my biased opinion the three cylinder model 4000 Ford is the best all around tractor one could have, while not as good with a loader the more compact 4000SU is also a top choice, of course I own both of those models and am probably being VERY biased about my choice.

 

[tracto-man]

Weight wise the 240 will do better for a loader. But as stated above, good luck finding implements for the fast hitch. I believe you can get a 3 point conversion for the fast hitch but I don't think that will work quite as well with some 3 point implements.

A quick CL search in your area turns up some cheap tractors I would love to have! From prices in your area, I'd say the 640/650 sounds like a $1000 tractor at most if not running, $1500 if it runs.

 

[OH Boy]

For a first tractor I would not suggest buying one that was not in good operating condition. Even then it will probably have some things that need to be done. The non-runners you are looking at just have too big of a chance of needing some kind of a major repair. The chances are you are not yet knowledgeable enough about tractors to determine that. I guess what I am saying is don't overpay for a non-runner that you are convinced just needs a simple repair. Been there done that.

 

[steve19438]

buy the newest machine you can afford.

 

[RickB]

Powder coat, digital instruments, cadmium plating. "Affordable" isn't part of this discussion.
FWIW, a 240 isn't nearly 40 HP, PTO, flywheel, or otherwise.

 

[tech]

Destroked, THANK YOU!

The info you provided allowed me to confirm that the Ford tractor is a 650 WorkMaster.

I have been extremely concerned about the brakes, since what I understand they are mechanical and NOT hydraulic. If I am correct, those would be dangerous to use trying to stop 3-4000 lb vehicle at any speed. What is the terminology for hydraulic brakes on a tractor- WET?

I have now eliminated both of my choices, unless I buy the Ford for the implements, then get it running decent and sell it w/o them to get my investment back.

While I am thinking about it, which finish mower has blades like a Honda self propelled mulching mower (twin offset blades on 1 spindle)?

Are all buckets (loaders) universal like the type 1 three point hitch?

 

[tech]

RickB, Powder coating is actually cheaper and longer lasting than paint. The problems with it are chipping and not touching up. Which begs the question of how to get paint codes off a tractor?

Cadmium plating is easy to do and can be a DIY project @ home so the expense is minimal, in fact it is probably cheaper than paint and easier. Have done it on a few bike parts.

Electronic ignition & Digital instrumentation go hand in hand.

Electronic ignition is easy, just use a GM D1906 or Ford DY184B module, a 4 cyl pick up w/reluctor, and a Ford epoxy ign coil and voila you've got electronic ignition with a 30% higher coil saturation time and hotter spark. This gives you more complete ignition- thus more power from less fuel. Electronic ignition expected cost under $100, time to install properly, a few hours.

Also since the timing is more precise, typically you could advance it 2 degrees for more power w/o having spark knock and get even more power and lower fuel consumption. And you don't get all the blowby in the oil thus it works better longer. Advanced the timing on my old Cologne powered Ranger 2 degrees, no spark knock, increased mileage by 5% and top speed by 8mph.

Digital Instrumentation is cheap ($125), already done a couple on scooters, just fabricate a mount bracket, toss in a couple waterproof 3 position switches, a 3 wire O2 sensor, an 18mm bung, a 10 amp Bosch relay, and a few cheap temp sensors with wiring pigtails out of the junkyard and you've got what you need. Of course you could spend money at the parts store for these new, but me, I am a cheap b*****d.

Of course the O2 sensor would tell you if the jetting / settings on your carb are off, or the air filter is dirty which both rob you of power and use more fuel. You could monitor the alternator output voltage so that it doesn't overcharge and damage the battery,and......well you get the idea

While I am thinking of it, why does everyone use a GM alternator from the '70s, when a Ford alternator from the '80s is just as easy to install, but when the regulator or brushes fail they can be replaced w/o removing and disassembling the alternator in minutes? The GM of course can not.

When I actually have purchased a tractor, and start the modifications, if anyone would like to see how I do these things, I could start a thread and put up some photos and how tos along the way.

 

[wellmax99]

as others have said, buy the best condition, newest machine you can afford.

be sure it has (live PTO)

a non runner or one with hydraulic problems, you can spend $1000's in repairs, in no time and still have an old tractor.

live PTO and power steering are great options to have.

ford 3600, MF 135, 245 or international 454 all good small tractors,
also having a dealer close by is good as you will need parts and service at some time,

 

[cdmn]

30 years ago, I was in your position. My number one priority was the front-end loader.
I needed it for snow removal (I'm from the North Country) and for lifting items on and off
pickup or trailer. Because of that, I went for a heavier tractor. Could have been
a D17, a 55 or 550 Oliver, 65 Massey. I didn't gravitate to Ford or IHC at that time.
I ended up with a Jet Star 3, and it's served me well. I soon after bought a Ford 3000
for the boom hoist, back blade, hay mower, baler, post-hole, rototiller, etc. Still have that.
Both were easy to get on and off. The Ford has power steering. MM had live pto and torque amplifier, which never worked and I basically never needed it. MM has disc brakes, but I've
had oil leaking into them. I treated my MM to some goodies for it's 50th birthday: new cushions,
new steering wheel, and new rear tires. My 3000 is as I bought it except for filters, power
steering pump, and a new water-pump. I can see how to fix it, but the Ford parking brake release
is a real strain for a portly guy.
When my nephew moved to a hobby farm, I set him up with a WD45 and loader. He got fed up after
a couple years. Still has an MF 20 Industrial with front blade that replaced it.
I hope this gives you ideas.

 

[WNYBill]

I think posts like this point out the dire straights our economy is in. Nobody has an extra $5000 for a tractor and are looking for the bargain, even thought it may be junk. I have been trying to sell a Ford 4000 3 cyl diesel here in WNY. Everything works and I can't get anybody to even look at it.

From a guy that has lost money on junk tractors....... Buy something that has everything working.

Bill

 

[Ultradog MN]

When you do buy a tractor of course we'd be interested in watching your progress. We always are. Often times we get to know a lot more about a particular tractor here than we do about the owner.
There's guys here we could tell you what and how many tractors he owns, what all he's done to them and how he uses them but couldn't tell you if the owner was old or young, short or tall, red hair or black (or gray) or even how he supports his tractor habit. But we like him nonetheless.
As for the EI, O2 sensor, hp increase due to timing settings, etc though I'm a big fan of EI on a gasser, dont forget there are a Lot of diesel fans here - guys who wouldn't own a gasser if you gave it to them. Talk to them about Simms, or CAVs or Roosa Masters or ask them about pop off pressures or spray patterns or how to make more smoke and you'll get their attention in a hurry. Mention a few add ons or gew gaws on a gasser and they'll just say if you wanted more ponies you should have bought the next bigger model.
That's not to pooh pooh anyone's plans or ideas mind you. It takes all types and there Are all types here.
You bring up a good point about the GM alternators and i can't tell you why they're so popular here. Things just get ingrained perhaps. I can say they're cheap, marvelously easy to wire - either one or 3 wire setups - and they're just so doggone reliable, such that if you're a hobbiest like many of us are, if you put a new $50 10SI from Napa on you're likely never going to have to touch it again.
Meanwhile, keep us apprised of your search progress. Ask a lot of questions. The collective advice here will help you find the right tractor - for a good price.
And don't despise a newer Ford - or a diesel. If you found a good running 65-75 3 cylinder 4000 - gas or diesel- (a 3000 too) you would have one of those DOH!, slap your forehead moments and ask "Why was I even considering a dead 640?

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 18:41:39 08/18/16) RickB, Powder coating is actually cheaper and longer lasting than paint. The problems with it are chipping and not touching up. Which begs the question of how to get paint codes off a tractor?

Cadmium plating is easy to do and can be a DIY project @ home so the expense is minimal, in fact it is probably cheaper than paint and easier. Have done it on a few bike parts.

Electronic ignition & Digital instrumentation go hand in hand.

Electronic ignition is easy, just use a GM D1906 or Ford DY184B module, a 4 cyl pick up w/reluctor, and a Ford epoxy ign coil and voila you've got electronic ignition with a 30% higher coil saturation time and hotter spark. This gives you more complete ignition- thus more power from less fuel. Electronic ignition expected cost under $100, time to install properly, a few hours.

Also since the timing is more precise, typically you could advance it 2 degrees for more power w/o having spark knock and get even more power and lower fuel consumption. And you don't get all the blowby in the oil thus it works better longer. Advanced the timing on my old Cologne powered Ranger 2 degrees, no spark knock, increased mileage by 5% and top speed by 8mph.

Digital Instrumentation is cheap ($125), already done a couple on scooters, just fabricate a mount bracket, toss in a couple waterproof 3 position switches, a 3 wire O2 sensor, an 18mm bung, a 10 amp Bosch relay, and a few cheap temp sensors with wiring pigtails out of the junkyard and you've got what you need. Of course you could spend money at the parts store for these new, but me, I am a cheap b*****d.

Of course the O2 sensor would tell you if the jetting / settings on your carb are off, or the air filter is dirty which both rob you of power and use more fuel. You could monitor the alternator output voltage so that it doesn't overcharge and damage the battery,and......well you get the idea

While I am thinking of it, why does everyone use a GM alternator from the '70s, when a Ford alternator from the '80s is just as easy to install, but when the regulator or brushes fail they can be replaced w/o removing and disassembling the alternator in minutes? The GM of course can not.

When I actually have purchased a tractor, and start the modifications, if anyone would like to see how I do these things, I could start a thread and put up some photos and how tos along the way.

Tech, I agree that powder coating CAN be more durable than paint, I have a bunch of things that are or have a lot of powder coating on them. On some things it lasts, on others it blows away with the wind. Yes, it is due to chipping, but in order to preserve the coating one would have to be sure to get any scratch touched up before it gets wet, or the rust is under the coating traveling fast.

 

[Dean]

Agreed, Bill.

Used tractors, etc. are not selling well. Such is symptomatic of the disastrous condition of the US economy.

Dean

 

[tracto-man]

Loaders are NOT universal like 3 point. Some times you could make one loader fit a couple different tractors if you did a couple mounting fabs, but in general, you have to buy one specific for the tractor. Loaders will however commonly fit a series, like one loader will fit any N for the most part. Not real sure about Ford hundred series loader crossovers.

 

[Destroked 450]

tech
You've ask some good questions that I'll give my opinion on and hope it helps, also have a couple questions of my own.

Brakes, some of the smaller class tractors have drum brakes at the ends of the axles, I grew up on tractors with these brakes and can honestly say they are marginal at best and many times have had problems keeping a loaded wagon from pulling me backward over a hill. Any tractor with disc brakes, ether wet or dry type are much better than drum brakes.
Your moving into the edge of the Blue Ridge Mountains so brakes should be a very important aspect in your tractor purchase.
As for hydraulic brakes, few if any tractors have hydraulic brakes in the lower hp range, the 6610 cab tractor I bale hay with has mechanical wet disc brakes and stops any loads with no problems.

Loaders, there are several brands of universal loaders but the mounting brackets are tractor specific, bracket kits for some older models like the Farm Hand model 22 I have are no longer available, Freeman loaders is another brand that you'll have trouble finding brackets for. I'm not a big fan of keeping a loader on a tractor all the times so a quick attach loader is a must for me.

Paint, I love a good powder coat finish but let's face it, if your going to use that tractor the paint's going to get scratched or chipped. I don't know of a mfg's paint code like cars have, I normally get the factory Acrylic Enamel with hardener that's easy to touchup and last for a good while, I repainted my 4000 in 2000, it's getting several scratches but still looks good.

Ignition, if you get a gas tractor for sure put electronic ignition on it, that's all I have to say about that other than I like diesels.

Gauges, tractors have a certain rpm they need to run to get the pto operating at the correct 540 rpm for pto powered equipment, there forth a good easily readable tach is needed.
I like oil pressure gauges but have gotten used to oil lights on my tractors. In big rigs we had both, a light to get your attention and a gauge to confirm the problem.

Now for my questions

Ford alternator, I would like more info on which one and how it mounts and wires up
Delco is the most popular and mounting kits are available at little cost. I will say the Delco on my 4000 is 16 years old so it held up well.

Caduim Plating, this is something I'd like to know how to do.

 

[martyh]

(quoted from post at 09:37:54 08/19/16) Agreed, Bill.

Used tractors, etc. are not selling well. Such is symptomatic of the disastrous condition of the US economy.

Dean

I don't think the economy is effecting used tractor sales as much as it's where we are as a society. A) It has to be new. B) It has to have a warranty so when there's a problem, it's not my problem and C) I'd have to be willing to learn and get my hands dirty to support an old tractor. That sounds like work.

To The original poster, if your budget allows, start out with a much nicer tractor. The two you describe will likely cost you more than buying a better tractor up front. Buy the nicest you can afford and take care of it. It'll be cheaper, will serve you better and be less headaches.

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 08:32:38 08/19/16) Loaders are NOT universal like 3 point. Some times you could make one loader fit a couple different tractors if you did a couple mounting fabs, but in general, you have to buy one specific for the tractor. Loaders will however commonly fit a series, like one loader will fit any N for the most part. Not real sure about Ford hundred series loader crossovers.

True, loaders are not universal like 3 pt tools but you can make pretty much any loader fit pretty much any tractor. A loader that came on my 960 went onto a 600, and the one that came on my 901 went onto an Oliver 1850. Many new loaders on large tractors look like they would fit much smaller tractors. Brackets are made at the factory, brackets can readily be made in a shop. One tractor that I had some time ago even came new with a shop built loader.

 

[tech]

Cadmium Plating is a 3 step process; Hope the links post.

1st get the rust removed completely. The absolute best way to remove rust is the electrolytic de-rusting procedure. I have used this on bike tanks where they are rusted badly inside, and they cleaned up perfectly. IF you are cleaning a fuel tank, just remember to remove the heavy stuff first by putting a bunch of old nuts and bolts in it and shaking. Then follow this procedure for any rusted part.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13816-De-rusting-bucket-removing-rust-from-steel-and-cast-iron-parts-old-school&highlight=electrolytic+de-rusting

2nd zinc plate it immediately to keep it from rusting again and to provide a foundation for the Yellow Chromate (Cadmium) step. Here is that link:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14392-DIY-Zinc-Plating-for-Donor-Nuts-and-Bolts

3rd Caswell plating offers the product for the Yellow Chromate (Cadmium) step. Here is that link.

http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/zinc-plating-kits/chromates/yellow-chromate.html

As to the Ford alternator, any for an early to mid 1980s will work. I'll take some photos of the one on my '86 Ranger and post them later.

Connection is just as simple as the GM. 3 wires; one to the main battery post on the alternator, the "I" terminal to the Ammeter , and the "S" term to the ignition switch. On Ford alternators, IF the regulator fails, a simple jumper will allow it to charge (watch for overcharge) and the regulator being external can be changed with just 2 screws while it is still mounted.

The GM unit has a main battery terminal, "1" terminal is the ignition switch, and "2" terminal is fused power or ammeter.

Thought some might like to have a wiring schematic and description of the early Ford electronic ignition. Anyone know how this site handles uploads of a pdf? I don't see an upload capability.

 

[tech]

The economy is bad for the masses, but the federal reserve says otherwise.

Bill, fwiw.. I custom tune Chinese scooters, and do some tuning for repair shops and I have noticed a marked increase in the time between them bringing me one and giving the authority to tune.

Also I've noticed that quite a few people want to barter something for either service or tuning or a refurbed scooter. Some of these are under $300- so yes tough times.

I currently have a very rare Taiwan made scooter I refurbed for a scooter shop that is fantastic and we have it for sale with owner financing, and almost no offers.

I have also observed that quite a few companies that only sold products on Craigs List are now renting them. Maybe you should look into renting your extra tractor.

One other thing, I would prefer to get a tractor that needs service or repair, because over the years I have made more money repairing other tech's poor work than I ever made strictly servicing. So I want one that I've had my hands on, know it as best I can so I have a reliable tractor.

As you can see, I don't know tractors as I only serviced one and that was an 8N in 1972 or 1973, so I have my hat in my hand asking for guidance. If I come across as a horse's arse, I apologize. But I do know automotive, cars, trucks, big rigs, bikes, scooters, and even inboard boats.

 

[oldtanker]

(quoted from post at 10:47:08 08/19/16)

(quoted from post at 09:37:54 08/19/16) Agreed, Bill.

Used tractors, etc. are not selling well. Such is symptomatic of the disastrous condition of the US economy.

Dean

I don't think the economy is effecting used tractor sales as much as it's where we are as a society. A) It has to be new. B) It has to have a warranty so when there's a problem, it's not my problem and C) I'd have to be willing to learn and get my hands dirty to support an old tractor. That sounds like work.

quote]

I don't fully agree with that. In the 60's as a kid in NJ few of our neighbors could fix anything and they taught those skills to their kids. Fast forward to today and even fewer know how to repair anything and using a wrench is rocket science to them.

For the OP: If you are still looking: The IH Fast Hitch system was IH only, implements too. So implements are almost impossible to find and priced accordingly. Now I own 2 Fords, 2 IHC's, a tractor loader backhoe and a 7U D4 Cat. So I'm not nearly as biased as some of these guys. While there is a conversion for the fast hitch to my understanding they lack the adjustments available on an actual 3 point system. You can buy any brand of 3 point implements you want as long as they are compatible with your tractor. My JD 5-18 Cat 3 plow is not going to hook to my Cat 1 Ford hitch. To get an idea what's available take a quick at the Northern Tool site http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_farm-acreage+3-point-category-1-implements. You cannot, to the best of my knowledge, get any new Fast Hitch implements.

Rick

 

[WNYBill]

Service/cosmetics are one thing, but if the PTO or hyd. doesn't work or it is missing a gear in the trans., you can sink thousands into it and still have junk. When one thing doesn't work, there is probably something else waiting to break!

My point is that nobody has $5000 for a decent piece of equipment, thanks to our economy. My old Ford will still be running when the foreign orange tractors are growing golden rod!

Bill

 

[Sean in PA]

I have been extremely concerned about the brakes, since what I understand they are mechanical and NOT hydraulic. If I am correct, those would be dangerous to use trying to stop 3-4000 lb vehicle at any speed. What is the terminology for hydraulic brakes on a tractor- WET?

The brakes on a Ford 650 are standard drum brakes like a 1950's or 1960's car, except that they are actuated mechanically instead of hydraulically. Most of the time that a tractor is doing work it is not traveling very fast and mechanical drum brakes can stop them just fine. Even road speeds in top gear aren't over 20 mph, but at that speed you do want to keep your eyes open and give yourself plenty of time to come to a stop.

Wet brakes are brakes that have the friction surfaces immersed in a liquid, usually inside the rear axle housing like the 1965+ Ford 4000, 5000 & 7000 series, and those are still mechanically actuated, not hydraulically actuated. The smaller 2000 and 3000 series of that time period still had the dry drum brakes of the earlier pre-1965 models.

Hydraulically actuated brakes on a tractor are called hydraulic brakes as far as I know, You are not going to find hydraulic brakes on a Ford tractor until you get up to a much larger tractor. I believe the first ones to have hydraulic brakes were the 8000 & 9000 series, which were over 90 hp and weighed over 9000 lbs.

 

[Fordfarmer]

I think the 6000 was the first Ford with hydraulic brakes. But as far as models that continued on in newer series... the 8/9000 would be the first.

 

[tech]

Thought I would bring everyone up to date on my decision. I bought the Ford for $1100. It is a 1957 Workmaster 641. It is currently non running, and being stored by the seller until I pick it up. It includes an ORC on the PTO, the boom pole, a pond scoop, a box blade, a turning plow, a disc, and an actual Bush Hog brand mower.

When I looked up the specs at tractor data I was surprised at how much more power these Workmaters have vs a standard 640.

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 15:01:20 09/11/16) Thought I would bring everyone up to date on my decision. I bought the Ford for $1100. It is a 1957 Workmaster 641. It is currently non running, and being stored by the seller until I pick it up. It includes an ORC on the PTO, the boom pole, a pond scoop, a box blade, a turning plow, a disc, and an actual Bush Hog brand mower.

When I looked up the specs at tractor data I was surprised at how much more power these Workmaters have vs a standard 640.

Congratulations on the free tractor! You can't go wrong at that price. Different places show different HP figures for the same tractor, but Ford did make some minor upgrades to the 640 to transform it into the 641. The most reliable sources show 31 for the 640 and 33 for the 641.