fixing ford 8ns

[ford8ntractor]

What did you have to do to get your fords running?

 

[wore out]

What did you have to do to get your fords running?

It doesn't take much to keep an old N Ford running.

If you don't leave one sit 'til the gasoline gets ROTTEN or leave the ignition switch "ON" when they are not running or ignore the fact that they left the factory with the battery connected (+) ground or botch a 12 Volt conversion they will run darned near forever with little operator intervention.


So, do tell, I'm GUESSING your experience hasn't been that bucolic?

Let's hear about it!

 

[Jarrod32]

Hardly extreme, but I had to replace the starter, which wasn't too bad to do.
I had problems with it flooding, figured I'd just clean out the carb as it was pretty nasty when I got it opened up. When that didn't solve the problem, I took a closer look and found that the float had a leak. Could have (maybe should have) just replaced the float, but I was sick of dinking around with it at that point so I just replaced the entire carb. Changed spark plugs after the repeated flooding instances. Runs like a top since...

 

[docmirror]

My 8N came with 30 acres of scrub. Hadn't been run in a decade. It was in a lean-to, with all four tires down, and spider webs in everything.

A slow, methodical process on a tractor I'd never seen or worked on before. Nothing complex, but I have to say, the front facing dist was a severe challenge without a mirror. It was locked up, so first some PB Blast in all jugs. After getting the tires aired up, I put it in third, and hooked a chain to the back and to my truck. I just kept jerking it, and jerking it until the engine turned. New oil and new coolant went in, a new 6V batt, and cleaned up the cable terminals real well. Cranked it with the plugs out and none of the jugs seemed to be damaged.

Took the carb off, and disassembled. Clean, clean, clean and blow out everything. The gas tank was in fair cond so I added gas, new plugs and after some sputtering, got it to run at 1200RPM. Did not want to idle. Took the carb back off and it seemed the idle mixture was clogged. Once I got that sorted, it would idle and rev ok. I looked at the fluid in the trans/diff/lift and it was decent cond and not cloudy at all. The trans dipstick had the cap on it so must have kept some of the water out. Drove it around in second, and figured out how the PTO and lift worked finally. The lift was slow for quite a while, but after some shifting around, it picked up ok.

Since I first got it, I've had a loader on it, brush hog, rake, blade, and box blade, auger, and lift boom. It's still at the airport, and I used it only a few months ago, to scrape some lumps. I have an 860, and a 961, but the 8N still is one of my favorites, if not too powerful or comfy.

 

[used red MN]

Hello Ford 8N guy, welcome to YT! Sort of an odd first post. I’m taking it from the “extreme” in the title this is strictly a discussion starter post? Or are you actually needing to know what it will take to make your Ford run? Just FYI there is a 9, 2 and 8N section here in the Manufacturers section.

 

[RBnSC]

Bil from first wife had a pretty good 2n sold it bought an 8n. Engine worn out. Owed him a favor or two. Rebuilt the engine, everything. Took block and internal parts to a friend that just opened his own machine shop. Put it back together. Cranked right up, sat there at fast idle purring like a kitten for 5 minutes then I heard it starting to !abor. Shut it off. I knew it was seizing up. I pulled it all apart. Machinest friend went over everything. He took responsibility. Got it all back together, cranked. It ran beautifully. I'm putting the last bit of sheet metal and bil is putting in spindle bushings but has date and party to go to. Get a call middle of the night, wreck , girl friend killed, bil has broken back never walks again. I finished tractor and carried it to his house. It sat there for twenty years kept putting tarps over it when they rotted off. Was trying to figure a way to put hand controls on it. But finally sold it. Never even gave me a thank you. That was the most work I ever did on an 8n.
Ron

 

[ford8ntractor]

I replaced the pistons, sleeves, hoses, new thermostat, patched the tires, new gas tank, rebuilt carb, rebuilt governor, new linkages, new throttle plate, new starter, and a few more things I cant remember

Hello Ford 8N guy, welcome to YT! Sort of an odd first post. I’m taking it from the “extreme” in the title this is strictly a discussion starter post? Or are you actually needing to know what it will take to make your Ford run? Just FYI there is a 9, 2 and 8N section here in the Manufacturers section.

just seeing bc mine needed a lot

 

[Jim.ME]

Ok, wow, i thought there would be some more extreme stories. I bought my 1948 ford 8n for 600 bucks and the owner said it needed a starter, so i replaced the starter only to find the gas tank rusted through so replaced that as well, i also replaced

just seeing bc mine needed a lot

What is extreme? To me replacing a starter, rusted out gas tanks, wiring, engine work, transmission work, etc. are normal maintenance on any tractor the vintage of the Ford 8Ns.

 

[Jim in LA]

What did you have to do to get your fords running?

1951 8N I bought required the following just to get it running to see what all it did need:
All new valve train,starter,wiring harness,points,condenser,rotor, and cap. New flywheel ring gear(new clutch while apart). Radiator and hoses,water pump, and all new alternator and brackets and belt. Engine has bad blow your and I received engine overhaul kit yesterday and will start overhaul in a couple weeks, Lord willing. I paid $800 for the tractor and have put a little over $400 into it excluding overhaul kit.
Tractor was very clean when I bought it but the rings/pistons/sleeves have got to be replaced,then some steering box and brake work,tires and a psychedelic paint job.

 

[Ozlander]

I've got a NAA. To get it to run, I put gas in it, turn on the key and hit the starter button.

 

[ford8ntractor]

I've got a NAA. To get it to run, I put gas in it, turn on the key and hit the starter

What is extreme? To me replacing a starter, rusted out gas tanks, wiring, engine work, transmission work, etc. are normal maintenance on any tractor the vintage of the Ford 8Ns.

you ever re-sleeved a tractor?

 

[HFJ]

you ever re-sleeved a tractor?

it's not as hard as it might sound.

 

[Jim.ME]

you ever re-sleeved a tractor?

I have re-sleeved several, in frame and out of frame. I have had blocks bored and sleeved that never had sleeves. I did have the shop that did the boring, get and install the sleeves to avoid any "who's fault is it" issues if a fit isn't right (same with having the shop get the bearings if they turn or polish a crank). I have tooling to do a valve job, but if seats are needed, I do have a shop do that. I'm doing an "out of frame" rebuild on a Continental 4-cylinder gas currently.

My point, in my previous post, was that extreme can be very subjective based on one's experience, it was not intended to slight you. The only thing I can think of that is extreme would be the money we sometimes put into these old Fords, and other old tractors.

What you have done to your tractor is a good bit of work, but not what I call extreme. Having to do that amount of work is always a risk when you get a non-running tractor of any brand, or anything else for that matter. You are now very familiar with it, which will help you maintain it in the future. Many would have called it quits before tackling rebuilding the engine. I give you credit, and I will say you have done well to do all this, especially if this type of mechanical work is not something you are familiar with doing. The more you do, the less extreme things will seem. And you have learned things you can pass on to others in the future. Welcome to the Forums.

 

[ford8ntractor]

i put in over a grand for my ford

 

[Tony in SD]

My grandson is about to find out

 

[retired fool]

Since the inside of my rear rims were covered with grease, oil and dirt I thought it best to change the seals on the axles of my early 8 n. I've read in my shop manual that I could pull the axle without too much trouble and I've finally got it pulled but it appears to be permanently attached to the wheel hub. I've tried heat, pounding etc . my dad was a sailor so my next step I figured would be cursing, not that I learned it from him. If anyone else has an idea I'd greatly appreciate any ideas you may have. Thanks

 

[wore out]

Since the inside of my rear rims were covered with grease, oil and dirt I thought it best to change the seals on the axles of my early 8 n. I've read in my shop manual that I could pull the axle without too much trouble and I've finally got it pulled but it appears to be permanently attached to the wheel hub. I've tried heat, pounding etc . my dad was a sailor so my next step I figured would be cursing, not that I learned it from him. If anyone else has an idea I'd greatly appreciate any ideas you may have. Thanks

Consider yourself LUCKY if the axle and hub splines are in good condition and stuck together, many are loose and worn out!

Anticipating this job, some guys LOOSEN the axle nut and drive the tractor around in "figure 8's" 'til the hubs come loose, at this point you'll need a BIG gear puller or a press.

 

[retired fool]

I tried the figure 8s as well. Along with the gear puller. It has sat outside for approx 8 years. Hoping someone had a magic wand . thanks for your help

 

[retired fool]

It has occurred to that maybe I should try the same thing that I used to get the valves replaced. I had some frozen valves when I first started this project and all the penetrating oil etc put on them didn't seem to work, but somewhere on this forum some member wrote about the qualities of diesel so that's what I kept squirting on the valves until it worked, made a believer out of me and the price is right too. I'm going to pour a couple of gallons in a container and soak the end of the axle with the wheel hub attached to it. Ill let you know Wore Out how it goes. Thanks again

 

[Hobo,NC]

Since the inside of my rear rims were covered with grease, oil and dirt I thought it best to change the seals on the axles of my early 8 n. I've read in my shop manual that I could pull the axle without too much trouble and I've finally got it pulled but it appears to be permanently attached to the wheel hub. I've tried heat, pounding etc . my dad was a sailor so my next step I figured would be cursing, not that I learned it from him. If anyone else has an idea I'd greatly appreciate any ideas you may have. Thanks

Put it in a press BTDT somewhere on YT I have a pix. Save yer diesel it will be of no help on the hub.