Float for 1969 Ford 2000 Holley carb

Andy Moore

New User
I just took my Holley R3589B apart, cleaned every passage, freed up the pump (plastic retainer was on the wrong side of the gasket), but I'm stumped with the float. There's liquid inside one of the chambers, and nobody stocks this part anymore.

Anyone have an idea on where to find a used one?

thanks
 
Andy:

Your odds of finding a good used float for your Holley carb are poor at best.

Floats are still available from CNH.

You will need a good one in your carb because the Holley carbs are very sensitive to float adjustment.

I suggest that you bite the bullet and order a new one.

Dean
 
Dean,

I printed out the 09D01 illustrated parts list from CNH, float is C5NE9550A.

Are you sure that this is still available? Every part description here says "no longer serviced."

Also, how important is the little float pin spring? This was missing from my carb.

thanks
 
I assume that float is brass has fuel in it.So first unsolder the small round hole.Then blow across it with high velocity till all the fuel is removed and during this time you will notice where the leak is.Solder it up.Clean and Flux or use ACID core.I used to do this with a 500 watt WELLER.Then close the unsoldered hole and you check your work by putting it under water. CENTAUR
 
Andy:

About one year ago I checked availability of a float for a Holley carb for a 3000. I was told by CNH that it was still available but I did not buy it because I repaired the one in the carb.

No, I am not absolutley certain that your float is still available but you will not yourself know unless you check with a CNH dealer.

The needle valve clip is not essential unless you use fuel preservative, e.g., StaBil, in which case it is highly recommended.

Dean
 
I may try repairing this if I can't find a good one. Another thing wrong with the float is that the two chambers are not aligned. Holding the carb body upside down(float and needle installed), one float chamber clears the gasket and the other is just below.

Do you know the correct setting? Is it measured from the carb body's bowl mating surface to the bottom of the float with needle seated- about an inch?
 
Much easier to put the float in a tuna can of hot water.This will show you where the leak is.Clean the leak area and solder with rosin core solder.60/40 works best.Watch out for junk solder.A 500 watt iron is gross over kill.A 60 watt pencil iron is enough.The float will fall apart if you get it too hot.Acid flux must be washed off.Acid flux is used on steel items.It will often eat away the steel tins its packed in.Makers pack it in plastic containers now.It usually contains hydrochloric acid.Surfaces that are soldered must be super clean.Dont touch with fingers or dirty rags.Ive been soldering for 57 years.Some floats are too thin to be soldered, they will have many small holes.Newer plastic floats do absorb gasoline and sink.The only way to catch this is to compare the floats weight to a new one.
 
In think I'd try to drain it and fix the float as well...

Remember.. lots of flux, little bit of heat.. and just enough solder to plug the hole..

Soundguy
 
Have you ever tried permatex gas tank repair epoxy (comes in thin strips you knead up and apply like bubble gum)? Sticks to gas-wet metal. I'm not real confident about soldering on this.

What about clear nail polish for the pinhole leak? Used to use it to seal around welch plugs in chainsaw carbs.
 
I wouldn't use the putty stick..I think you'd have to get too much of a glob on there.. and it may effect float weight.... however plain old jb-weld or jb-fast weld will work.. just mix up a drop, and then us the smallest amount to cover the pinhole.

And yes.. once cured.. jbweld IS gas resistant.. I emailed their company about that.. and have jbweld on a crack on a carb on my ford 8n at the gas inlet port... had it there for 7years now.. no leaks..

Remember to get all the gas out first.

( also.. soldering is super easy.. get some copper pipe scraps.. or copper/zinc penny and practice up.. clean real good with brash brush.. then use lots of flux.. apply heat evenly, and then scratch with solder.. solder will flow and wick, and you can 'lead' it with heat.. etc. just like sweating a copper water pipe.. etc.. )

Soundguy
 
Appreciate all the replies. The pinhole leak was at the factory plug, so I melted out the solder, then heated with a blowdryer (gas all came out in a couple of minutes!) and resoldered the hole shut.

Now, let me ask again- how do I set this float? Does anyone know the correct spec, and where to measure from?

It seems high to me now (holding everything upside down). Measures anout 1 1/16 inches from installed bowl gasket to the bottom of the float. Far from level.

thanks
 
Just a final note. The Holley R3589B still wouldn't work right after the servicing, and I replaced it with a Zenith 13914A (EINN9510DA).

If anyone wants the old carb, let me know.
 
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