I'm finally tackling one of my flooding carburetors, which has just been rebuilt by a FNH dealer and floods at rest. It's an 80 mile round trip to the dealer and I brought it back once and he couldn't find anything wrong - re installed it - same thing, so I'm going to track down the problem myself.
My first roadblock is that I can't find a production screwdriver large enough to fit the slot in the brass float valve seat, which I need to verify is "very tight" according to the advice I've read in this forum (it has the gasket under it). I've read about shop made tools for this application that start with files, chisels, spade bits or grade 8 bolts. All of these approaches require removing a significant amount of metal to get to a 1/2" x .50" straight bit edge, which I think are the correct dimensions. I have no machining equipment nor machining experience so I'm limited to a bench grinder a 4 1/2" angle grinder and a motor mounted grinding wheel designed to be used on the flat face (for sharpening drill bits). I'm concerned that I'll have ruined the temper of the tool steel just getting whatever I start with down to the rough shape - and grinding by hand, it's doubtful that I'll get a very precision result. Is a diamond blade in my angle grinder an acceptable cutoff tool for hardened steel? If so, maybe I can avoid the excessive heat that grinding would produce just to get to the starting point for shaping, which I could do slowly. I'm looking for the shortest path to an acceptable end from you wise souls -- I do tend to over-think things sometimes.
My first roadblock is that I can't find a production screwdriver large enough to fit the slot in the brass float valve seat, which I need to verify is "very tight" according to the advice I've read in this forum (it has the gasket under it). I've read about shop made tools for this application that start with files, chisels, spade bits or grade 8 bolts. All of these approaches require removing a significant amount of metal to get to a 1/2" x .50" straight bit edge, which I think are the correct dimensions. I have no machining equipment nor machining experience so I'm limited to a bench grinder a 4 1/2" angle grinder and a motor mounted grinding wheel designed to be used on the flat face (for sharpening drill bits). I'm concerned that I'll have ruined the temper of the tool steel just getting whatever I start with down to the rough shape - and grinding by hand, it's doubtful that I'll get a very precision result. Is a diamond blade in my angle grinder an acceptable cutoff tool for hardened steel? If so, maybe I can avoid the excessive heat that grinding would produce just to get to the starting point for shaping, which I could do slowly. I'm looking for the shortest path to an acceptable end from you wise souls -- I do tend to over-think things sometimes.
