Fluid types

[Steve Y]

I have recently purchased an 8N (1948, 12V with front distributer). Since I am new to this I was wondering what kind of oil and hydraulic fluid to use. I live near Buffalo, NY so it can get pretty cold and I definitly plan on using it to plow out the driveway. Thanks for any advice!

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Congrats on the new tractor!

Check out tips 3 & 4 for my suggestions.

I'd go w/ the 134d w/ all the cold weather you get!
50 Tips

 

[HCooke]

Check out Bruce's 50 tips for N owners. The most popular oil mentioned on this site is Rotella 15W40. In cold climates, Universal hydraulic oil that meets Fords 134 specs is advised. Make sure you get the owners manual and the I&T FO4 service manuals.
50 tips for N owners.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Oooops! You also asked about engine oil.

Pick the weight of the oil by the condition of the engine (oil pressure) & the outside temperature. Many folks use 30w detergent all year. A straight weight oil is probably ok in a hot climate, but you will get excessive engine wear on startup in cold climates. Like in Buffalo!(That’s one reason multi-vis oil was invented) A worn engine is going to need a heavier weight oil to maintain oil pressure at operating speed & temp. Many use 10w30, 15w40 or even 20w50. Some like the newer diesel rated oil because of the additives for the flat tappets & highly recommend Shell Rotella T 15-40 (I'm not convinced that my 2400 rpm N engine needs the same oil as my 65 Mustang did) Anyway, IMHO, use a multi-vis detergent oil. Increase the weight if the engine has low oil pressure. And, BTW, switching to detergent oil is not going to loosen up the sludge in the engine. While choosing oil brands & weights are sometimes subjective, the use of detergent vs non-detergent shouldn’t be debatable given the oil available today. Plenty of studies disprove the “stir up the sludge” myths; here is one:

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Detergent%20Oil

Change the oil when the engine is hot. If you have the OEM fittings, you will need a 1-1/16” open end wrench for the drain plug & a 7/8” box end wrench for the oil filter canister bolt. If your canister has a drain plug, you will need a 7/16” box end wrench for that. (If it doesn’t, suction it out or wick it out w/ rags) Make sure your waste oil pan holds 6 quarts. Look at the size of that drain plug; the first 5 quarts of oil will come out, along w/ the plug, in about 2 seconds, so get the pan as close as possible to the bottom of the pan. Or, get out the Kitty Litter because you will have oil splashed all over the place. Have a new oil plug gasket on hand or be prepared to make one. Clean the pan squeaky clean of all previous gasket sealer & the old gasket. Do not use Permatex or any other sealer except Never-Sieze on the new gasket. Make sure your drain plug has the screen on it. If not, get a new plug . Clean the screen. I use NAPA 1010 oil filters. Do not forget to use a quarter size gasket under the bolt holding the top of the oil filter canister. Do not forget to use the 7/8” wrench to snugly tighten the bolt on the top of the canister. (Don't ask!). Most oil filters come w/ the large ring gasket; wet it w/ oil first. Save the old gasket until you check the canister for leaks. The new gaskets are sometimes thinner than the older ones & are prone to leakage. If yours leaks, re-install the old gasket. Clean the oil breather, add 6 quarts of oil & save a little for the cup in the air filter. (and check the filter mesh in the breather; if it's dirty, you will need to clean or replace it. Same w/ the oil breather. Remove the wing nut to clean it out)
50 Tips

 

[souNdguy]

ditto that.. utf fluid meeting 134d specs.. and an engine oil suited for cold temps, but also for engine wear.

probably a 15w40 in your case unless she is worn slap out.

soundguy