Fluids for a 231 Diesel.

Cyclone Guy

New User
I'm ready to buy new fluids for my tractor. I drained the engine, transmission, and the rear end/hydraulic system.

I know for the engine I should buy a Diesel oil (probably 15w40 for here in Canada) but I'm not sure what to put in the trans, gear oil? Also not sure what to put in the rear end/hydraulic system. Would the Co-op trans-hydraulic stuff be the right stuff?
 
Diesel-rated oil for the engine, and hydraulic/transmission oil that meets Ford (New Holland) 134D specs for everything else - hyd./rear end, tranny, and power steering.
 
I recently went through the same chore, but for the 201 diesel. I ended up going with the CNH Multi G 134 for everything minus the engine (obviously). I emailed the CNH fluid supplier to get an answer on the current replacement offered by CNH. If you go through CNH, be prepared to pony up some serious dough though.

You'll get a vast array of opinions and recommendations here. I went with the CNH fluid for the additional additive packages that you don't get with the generic universal fluid (this will spur many comments, BUT TO EACH THEIR OWN).

For the engine, I got Shell Rotella T1 SAE 30 (this is diesel rated). Finding a monograde diesel rated oil can be a small challenge. I got it off Amazon and it had free shipping.
Shell Rotella T1 SAE 30
 
After being inside one of the largest retailers in the world, and cross referencing the supplier against the 10 years/3 million miles of trucking I did prior to that, you would be amazed at the shell game done by labels at different retail locations. As noted above, many different opinions as to what works best.

Here is the bottom line.

Take a couple of minutes and learn what the different grades mean. Worth a million bucks all by itself.

MY PERSPECTIVE: Picking up the exact same crap at 9 of the 10 different oil/fluid bottling plants in operation during ten years of trucking: Same crap: different priced labels. e.g.- Castrol GTX is one grade of detergent lower than than Discount Auto Parts private label stuff which is half the price. Same bottler location, same core oil from exact same storage tank pumping the exact same detergent mix into the exact same bottling line. Castrol didn't bother to certify the "blend" so they could charge more for the "extra" rating for certain dealership deals. Period. Walmarts oil is same rated as Shell Rotella, because it is that and 5 other brands sitting on exact same shelf. Ask who is the supplier of any chain anywhere in the world. If its same as national brand, and rating same or better, its same crap. PERIOD.

Your money. Your Choice. Little bit of knowledge goes a really long way.

Many of us use Tractor Supply's UTF for tranny/rear/hydro so that if any leaks, no problems mixing between. Just watch fluid levels in each area for drift. Great many threads on all above topics. Worth the read. Am sure there are similar supplier issues above the Canuck line. Insert appropriate names for retailers.
 
Here's information for you and further research on engine oil only. This does not have anything to do with the hydraulic/transmission oil/differential/wet brake fluids.

Granted API is the American Petroleum Institute and you’re in the Great White North but hopefully you can use the linked document to make an educated decision. Maybe you get the exact same oils in Canada as we do in the States, I just don’t know.

The first think you need to do though is determine what viscosity oil is recommended by the manufacturer. For that turn to the owner’s manual (if you don't have one, I'd get one, OEM manuals are worth the money). Keep in mind your climate and what seasons you'll be using the tractor when selecting the proper viscosity. I’m sure the weather varies widely throughout Canada.

Secondly, refer to the linked document. Since you're running a diesel you’ll want a "C" rated oil. "S" oils are for gassers. What is noteworthy and you find when reading the document is some oils are "C" and "S" rated. Example "SJ/CF”. Since the "S" is listed first, the oil is designed as gasoline engine oil. A "C" listed first means it was designed for diesels (“CF/SJ”). This is important because diesels generate soot. Long story short, look for a "C" rated oil or one with the "C" rating listed first.

Armed with that information, hit the internet and research various brands of oil in the specific viscosity you’ll be using. In my case, I wanted to run to run a monograde oil. I'll just use an oil pan heater in the rare event I use the tractor when it's cold. Yes, Shell Rotella T1 SAE 30 is rated by the API as "CF-2" (obsolete by API Standards) but good luck finding a diesel rated monograde engine oil with a higher API rating. If I found one, I'd have got that instead. Mobil/Exxon, Castrol, and Valvoline either did not offer a monograde diesel oil or was rated less than "CF-2". I surfed Wal-Mart's website, checked the API ratings and did not find any Super Tech branded engine oils (Wal-Mart's store brand) that were diesel specific or gas/diesel rated.

Hopefully you’re able to use the internet to bridge the US/Canadian oil retail gap. Containers may very well be labeled the same (but maybe there is a Canadian API equivalent), to find the suitable oil for your specific scenario.

I've found with the forums that engine oils, hydraulic fluids, transmission fluids, and cylinder cavitation prevention (coolant additives) are the hot button topics and stoke folk’s coals.

That being said, on topics like this I do audit what people have to say but also conduct research on my own. This is why I provided you with information from an industry recognized source. At the end of the day the decision falls on you so I'd want to find accurate information from unquestionably valid sources, such as the API. If something fails, it's your money fixing it. I only personally know one person on the YT forums and would take his advice with great respect, but I also know his credentials back up his advice. Everyone else, I proceed with heightened awareness. No one here is out to set you up for failure though.

For mechanical things peoples experiences are great, but removing a clutch for example is tangible. As far as lubricants and fluids the difference is in the chemistry. All I can do is read the label and research further into what the label says and what it means.
API Classification Markings
 
Thanks to all of you for taking the time to post in such detail. After my research here, I was able to make an educated decision on what oil to purchase.

I was able to find CF-2 SAE 30 oil at WalMart here in Canada. I bought their Universal Tractor fluid which was labelled as a 134 so I'm good for the trans/rear end.

Interesting reading about how all oils are coming from the same source (always wondered about that and heard those rumors over the years).

I recently obtained this tractor from my neighbor who had NEVER changed the transmission or hydraulic oil from what I can tell. It came out a milky white/tan color. This was surprising to me as everything worked just fine so I'm sure I can't be harming it with fresh oil. He did change the engine oil a few times in the years I've known him. Sadly, he now has dementia and has been moved to an old folks home.

This tractor will only see around ten hours of use per year so I will not be working it hard by any means.

Thanks again.
 
Did you change the hydraulic filter too? If you have power steering that will take the 134 as well. Post some pictures of your machine, I always like looking at other folks stuff.

Also be sure to test the freeze point of your coolent. Especially with winter rapidly approaching.
 
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